steps between SSR2.5 and EX-P
- Thread starter harryp
- Start date
wifehatescar
My L5-S1 is killing me!
You probably don't NEED to but if you have the time I would....
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
harryp said:
Isn't the orange pad a mild cutting pad? if it is , and you want to skip the FPII, then I would repeat the SSR2.5 with a white polishing pad...
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
Sure, you can go and polish with MZ FPII, just run the PC a bit fast as it has to mimic a rotary as FPII works under heat.
Orange pad is a aggressive pad, step down to a white polish pad.
Or, you could use SSR1 or Pro Polish or Megs Machine Glaze or Hand Polish. With the exception of SSR1, these have oils in them. Same applies for VM. Good glaze, but lots of oil to suspend the glaze. It may interfere with EX-P bonding correctly. You can wash after all the polish or use a mix of distilled water and alcohol to spray and wipe most of the oils away. It just gives EX-P a better bonding surface. Using FPII, although it does not fill, it has a bit more oil so it can be worked longer with say a PC. It's really called "Micro Polish" in the Menzerna line. Does the best job in producing a mirror shine if you know how to use it.
Less headache may be the SSR1/Pro Polish since you plan on using EX-P.
I'vee done my SC430 with Menzerna and EX-P. Took much longer, but if you have the time it well worth it. I used a finish pad on the rotary as I wanted MP (FPII) to burnish the finish and NOT a pad. Washed the car CAREFULLY again, misted with water/alcohol and proceeded with EX-P. Topped with Nattys for a wetter clear look. Then again, EX-P on it's own looks damn good.
I'd use VM on something else if it was my car. Not that there is anything wrong with it, it's just how to match up products best. VM and wax=very wet shine.
Regards,
Deanski
Orange pad is a aggressive pad, step down to a white polish pad.
Or, you could use SSR1 or Pro Polish or Megs Machine Glaze or Hand Polish. With the exception of SSR1, these have oils in them. Same applies for VM. Good glaze, but lots of oil to suspend the glaze. It may interfere with EX-P bonding correctly. You can wash after all the polish or use a mix of distilled water and alcohol to spray and wipe most of the oils away. It just gives EX-P a better bonding surface. Using FPII, although it does not fill, it has a bit more oil so it can be worked longer with say a PC. It's really called "Micro Polish" in the Menzerna line. Does the best job in producing a mirror shine if you know how to use it.
Less headache may be the SSR1/Pro Polish since you plan on using EX-P.
I'vee done my SC430 with Menzerna and EX-P. Took much longer, but if you have the time it well worth it. I used a finish pad on the rotary as I wanted MP (FPII) to burnish the finish and NOT a pad. Washed the car CAREFULLY again, misted with water/alcohol and proceeded with EX-P. Topped with Nattys for a wetter clear look. Then again, EX-P on it's own looks damn good.
I'd use VM on something else if it was my car. Not that there is anything wrong with it, it's just how to match up products best. VM and wax=very wet shine.
Regards,
Deanski
Scott P
New member
I used SSR2.5 with a white polishing pad with my Makita on my GP's hood at Detail Day. I then followed up with SSR2 and a white pad on the PC. Following Steve's suggestion, I went over the hood one more time with SSR1 and a white pad. The hood looked antastic.
Of coure, it hasn't been touched since. I really should put a coat of wax on there.
Vanilla Moose/EX-P is one of my favorite combos, especially on black. I've never seen any bonding problems with that combo. I think that we've been trained (because of Klasse and Zaino) to think that sealants can't bond to glazes and other products.
Typically, I have always been able to go from SSR2.5 right to EX or EX-P. I like to use SSR1 or VM in between to get a deeper look.
Of coure, it hasn't been touched since. I really should put a coat of wax on there.
Vanilla Moose/EX-P is one of my favorite combos, especially on black. I've never seen any bonding problems with that combo. I think that we've been trained (because of Klasse and Zaino) to think that sealants can't bond to glazes and other products.
Typically, I have always been able to go from SSR2.5 right to EX or EX-P. I like to use SSR1 or VM in between to get a deeper look.
groebuck
New member
I have used Wolfgangs over VM with no issues either -
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
You know.. There may bee some validity as to bonding and oils in polish in that most amino types do not require stripping the finish of oils prior to the sealant. Some sealants also use petro (like naptha) for keeping the sealant product in suspension. Some use a water based system, like Wolfgang.
Ah what the hell... Put the EX-P over the VM. If it doesn't last long enough you'll know it was a problem with it bonding. If it lasts as normal then we know that any glaze can be used under it.
You know, I may have to test a panel on my company car with the Menzerna glaze and EX-P. Can't hurt!
Regards,
Deanski
Ah what the hell... Put the EX-P over the VM. If it doesn't last long enough you'll know it was a problem with it bonding. If it lasts as normal then we know that any glaze can be used under it.
You know, I may have to test a panel on my company car with the Menzerna glaze and EX-P. Can't hurt!
Regards,
Deanski