Stepping from UDM to Makita..nervous

W

WCM3

New member
So I probably know what most people will say..don't do it. So I figured I would post the question and get the opinions.



Well, I picked up a Makita rotary a few months ago, and haven't had a chance to use it. I also picked up a 2003 Alpine White M3 that has been severely neglected in the paint care department. It has swirls galore and would need a pretty extensive detail. Usually with my UDM, I would go Orange Pad/M105 followed up with White Pad/M205. That would take care of a lot of the swirls. However, it takes me about 4 minutes of each combo to break down the polish. I'm looking to see if it would be quicker and just "better" to use the Makita on this car. I haven't practiced with other body panels left, but I wasn't sure if I kept the rotary under 1,500rpm if it would be damaging. I also see wool versus foam and the fact that foam heats up a lot quicker than wool and can damage the paint. I want to be quick, but doing the job right is the most important. What would you guys suggest?



Thanks,

Mike
 
My suggestion would be to play with wool and 105 first. Next try a medium foam before you use stiff cutting pads. Never rush. Take your time. Just remember the 60 to 80 hour details posted on boards done with rotaries. BMW white "can" be pretty hard to correct. Practice on the hood/trunk first. Keep the rpms around speed 2 (1200 rpm) until you feel comfy.



PS: A trick that I use sometimes (depends on the paint) is I wet the cutting pad and spin it out. Easier to maneuver it when the pad is softer.



Good luck
 
WCM3- Just be prepared to go back over it with the UDM to remove any holograms, and be sure to strip the M205 oils so you can see what you really have going on.



One thing though...M105/M205 don't "break down". I'm not trying to be a pedantic [jerk] who's :nono about wording, it really might matter; with the right amount of product M105 has a pretty quick work-cycle, which often needs extending via rewetting the pad (which can get messy with a rotary).



Just keep the rotary moving, don't "double work" the areas at the end of your arm-movement strokes, watch crown lines, corners, trim, and other trouble-spots, and pay attention to what you're doing every single second. You can do fine with a rotary first time, right out of the box. Well, other than that hologram issue ;)
 
The holograming can come out with a white pad/M105. I had a tiny bit in an area I was doing last week, it got it right out. I just went slow, no pressure, everything went well.
 
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