Starting with the Paint Preperation only.

[Changeling]

I have really been getting confused by all the product abbreviations, short answers, and lack of a full program that I am just going to take "ONE" thing at a time till I understand.



It seems logical that the preparation of the finish before applying any type of final finish is absolutely necessary! If the paint finish is correct than getting a correct finish , sealant/wax/whatever should be easy, but without this procedure being done to it's best is like beating a dead horse, you end up with what you started with!!



Therefore: 1999 Tacoma, BLACK, TRD. The truck has been kept outdoors from the start.

There are the usual scratches around the doors and several long 2 to 4 inch scratches horizontally in the lower half. She also has some stone pits about the size of a pen head scattered in the lower half, about 3 on each side.

Because of the way I park the , front of truck headed "EAST" the sun is on the passenger side most of the day. Apparently this has caused some condition on the mid half, where the bottom of the passenger window starts to the mid line of the truck basically on the passenger door only, that as best as I can describe as a series of "XXXXX" this type under/in the paint.



It is obvious I need a really good paint prep before I even think about a finish!!



From what I have read on this web site this is what I have come up with:



1. Start with Menzerna IP over the whole vehicle.



2. Now do a Menzerna FPII over the whole vehicle.



3. I purchased the PC 7424.



I repeat this is for the "Preparation of the surface only"



Now the BAD: I have emphysema and have to use the PC to work on one section at a time. Can you do this with the above products?

If so what pad colors do I order (Lake Country) ?

 

[Cleaning Fool]

New, 6-1/2 inch, CCS Technology Pads
for use on conventional and scratch-resistant clear coats.

 

[Accumulator]

changeling- Given your health challenges, doing it in sections makes perfect sense. Yeah, you can do it that way.



One thing though, I'd take your admirably logical approach to this stuff one step further: IMO it's the *wash* that's the foundation of detailing. No point in getting a finish all perfect if you're gonna mess it up again when you wash



Back on-topic, the Menzerna polishes (very good, no argument there!) don't hide anything; what you see is what you have. This can be great or it can be challenging. If you find that removing the marring is just too much, I suggest you try a polish that does correction *and* concealing (e.g. the 1Z line, which is also about as user-friendly as it gets). Sorry, I hate to do the "try a different product" thing, but I'm all for keeping this stuff as manageable as possible.



I've never had a huge preference in pads for the PC, but I will say that I usually need to use 4" ones to do any significant correction; the machine is very gentle and sometimes it's *too* gentle.

 

[Changeling]

changeling- Given your health challenges, doing it in sections makes perfect sense. Yeah, you can do it that way.



One thing though, I'd take your admirably logical approach to this stuff one step further: IMO it's the *wash* that's the foundation of detailing. No point in getting a finish all perfect if you're gonna mess it up again when you wash



Back on-topic, the Menzerna polishes (very good, no argument there!) don't hide anything; what you see is what you have. This can be great or it can be challenging. If you find that removing the marring is just too much, I suggest you try a polish that does correction *and* concealing (e.g. the 1Z line, which is also about as user-friendly as it gets). Sorry, I hate to do the "try a different product" thing, but I'm all for keeping this stuff as manageable as possible.



I've never had a huge preference in pads for the PC, but I will say that I usually need to use 4" ones to do any significant correction; the machine is very gentle and sometimes it's *too* gentle.

Thanks for your reply. What is 1Z, I'll give it a look.

Is there any specific brand, type of 4 inch pad i should look at, pad type, Etc,.



Changeling

 

[Zet]

Working in sections is perfectly fine. Though you might want to put on a coat of wax after polishing each section, to help protect the results.



The Optimum line of polishes is pretty user friendly.



For pad colors, if talking LC pads I would get 2 orange, 2 white, and 2 black or blue. Only use one product with each pad, before washing the pad out. I haven't used the PC for corrective work, but I know many are using 6,5" pads. Maybe get one of each size and see what you like best.

 

[Accumulator]

Thanks for your reply. What is 1Z, I'll give it a look.

Is there any specific brand, type of 4 inch pad i should look at, pad type, Etc,.



Changeling

"1Z" isn't just one of the innumerable acronyms around here, it's actually the name of the company "EinZett" is German for "one 'Z' " and that's the company's name- there's a single, big "Z" on the can of polish. You can order from Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing Supplies & Accessories. The 1Z polishes leave some wax behind, so if you're tired at the end of the polishing you can wait until after the next wash to apply your regular wax.



For 4" pads, I usually use Cyclo brand pads, but the Sonus and LC ones are good too. Same types you'd need in any other size, the colors/types for Cyclo brand are: cutting (yellow) or light cutting (orange); the polishing ones are green; and the light polishing/finishing ones are white.

 

[Juztang]

I agree with getting the Lake Country pads and Optimum Polishes. I would get a couple of white polishing pads,couple orange light cutting pads, and a couple of gray finishing pads. You can never have too many pads. It sucks when your pads are dirty and you need to use one!



As far as polish, Optimum is my go to polish. Very easy to use with no dusting. Also they work great! Menzerna is also very popular on here and also produce excellent results.