Start with rotary?

A

acn684

New member
Hey guys, i've been reading up and seems like rotary gets much better results than dual actions. I opted to go DA at first due to the basic fact taht you probably can't screw up...but after reading some more, properautocare states that at around 1000-1200 rpm, u can't burn the paint. Of course I know to take this with a grain of salt and precaution becasue u can probably burn the paint in a DA also. I do have a 2006 TSX black/black that i would love to make shine better than new off the lot, but then again, i don't want to F up the paint either. Is a rotary something that is safe to learn with? What are some precautions and why would you recommend me starting with eithe ra PC or a Rotary? THanks!
 
Dude we got the same car except mine is an 05, anyways it is nearly impossible for a DA to burn paint except maybe if you keep it on one spot for 10 minutes with 50 lbs of pressure. :soscared I have not had any problems at all correcting Honda paint. All Ive ever used was a finishing polish and a polishing pad thanks to the soft clear and my washing technique. I to plan to buy a rotary and practice myself but would not reccomend you practice on your TSX.



I would suggest getting a PC first get the feel for it and then venture on to a rotary. Doesnt mean you cant get both if you can splurge.
 
I've never came close to burning the paint with the PC or Cyclo but have ona practice panel and a rotary. To be honest, I have used my rotary once in the last 3 years and it was to remove a good size scratch. If you want something in between a PC and rotary I recommend the Cyclo.
 
a rotory has its dangers. You first should start out on a "practice car" that is a beater. The hood should be easiest, then go to the sides. If the car has rounded edges or sharp edges matters too. Buffing around mirrors and door handles can be tricky (dangerous). The speed, pressure, angle, pad, product of a rotory all have to be learned. And there is no better way to learn than by doing. BUT do NOT learn on a car that can't be ruined. You will be sorry. You won't know the dangers until its too late. Someone you knw has to have a beater car. GOOD LUCK!!
 
go for the machine in the middle. i just got a makita ro6040, it's like a pc but with the option of forcing the pad to rotate as well. i haven't had enough time to really detail a whole car with it yet, but i have used in on a project i'm working on and it's really great. it truly is between the two machines. more powerful than a pc but less dangerous than a rotary. there are some spots that i just won't try with a rotary because of the angle or small workable area, i would use this machine in those areas without too much concern.
 
acn684 said:
... I opted to go DA at first due to the basic fact taht you probably can't screw up...but after reading some more, properautocare states that at around 1000-1200 rpm, u can't burn the paint...
Click to expand...
That's not a theory you want to put to the test on your car (or any customer's car either).



Even if you don't burn the paint you'll be hologramming until you've gotten a lot of practice. You'll need the DA to pull out the holograms.





PC.
 
After you feel super confident with the DA and want something stronger to remove deeper swirls, you can go for the rotary. The good thing about your existing DA is that you will use it to finish up after the rotary because it usually leaves behind marring.
 
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