SSR3 too agressive for PC use?

A

AudiOn19s

New member
I'm about to order some SSR2.5 to compliment what I've already got in the garage BUT I'm curious to know if I should just take the plunge on SSR3 as well. Many here have stated that something higher than 6 on the cut scale is best reserved for Rotary over PC. Looking for anyone with real world experience with SSR3 and a PC to tell me if it's worthy my time or if I'll just make more of a mess than it's worth.



Thanks.
 
You can probably try SSR3, but it will take you awhile to break the polishes down fully. I haven't gone past the 2.5/DACP/Medium Polish mark because those condition really need a rotary. You will definitely be taking paint or CC off. It depends on what your working with all and all :D
 
I've used SSR 3 with a yellow cutting pad with great success. I've had some surfaces that really needed something that aggressive and it's worked great. You will have to follow it up with somelike like 2.5 tho because it will microscratch the surface.
 
Follow with 2.5? Wow what kind of condition were you working with? I would think SSR 2 or 1 would be great products for those conditions
 
A couple of different ones actually.



One was severe acid rain etching that nothing seemed to touch. 2.5 would remove it but you have to really work it. I used a whole bottle of 2.5 on the car and only managed to get 2/3rd of the car done before I ran out. 3 cut right through the stuff.



Another was a car with a lot of small scratches that 2.5 wouldnt remove. Again, 3 got them out. I followed up with 2.5, then TropiCare Swirl Cutter then used a LSP.
 
Maybe it's worth my while to pick up the 3 then while I'm at it...Then agian..maybe it's worthy my while to get a rotary and learn to use it as well. From a liability perspective as the "weekend guy" I'm not sure I really want to go that route yet although I can think of a few occasions when it could have made good details into excellent details instead.
 
A PC. I actually intended to buy a rotary just for this vehicle and Autogeek talked me out of it. The 2.5 alone with PC was not enough to remove the etching, even with a cutting pad.



3 did the job tho. 2.5 on a rotary might have done a better job at it but 2.5 cures so fast, I dont know.
 
You used an entire BOTTLE of 2.5? I'm gonna say you use to much if you polished it a few times. Thats alot of product. Nevertheless I don't know the car you were working on. Nice to see a fellow NCer btw! :D
 
This etching was quite odd. Ive never seen anything like it and hope I don't again. Each panel had to be done a couple of times and even with the SSR 2.5 and 3, I didn't manage to get it all off.



Strangely enough, you can't see this etching in sunlight but get it under a flourescent and it's very obvious. Before I buffed (and buffed and buffed) it, you could however see it in direct sunlight.
 
i used it with a pc and all it did was make things worse. Since the pc wont break down all the product you end up wiping away the product & scratching the clear. id save it for the rotory.
 
Well I was a sucker and ordered it before I read 6][9's post. I suppose I'll have to do a little experimenting on my beater to figure out if it's really going to work for me or not. Otherwise it will go on the shelf until I learn to properly use a Rotary.
 
Whifehatescar,



What speed and foam pad did you use on the SSR3? I am also thinking of buying it also with the ssr2, ssr1, Poorboys polish, ex-p,natty's.



Ricky
 
Poorboys actually answered my questoins for me on SSR3...This is steve's advise on SSR3



"use a finishing or polishing pad, make a small circle around the pad, about an inch from the edge, and use it at a speed of 5.5 or 6 for small areas at a time...I suggest trying a couple passes with 2.5 first with a polishing pad, before bumping up to SSR3.



p.s.... make sure you work it until it breaks down and do not dampen the pad..."
 
I have used it with cutting and polishing pads with speed 5 or 6. Like others have said it breaks down fast. No need to fear it.
 
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