SSR1 or SSR2???

stang03

stang03

New member
Hey guys
I am planning on ordering some SSR2 but I am afraid that it may have a little to much "cutting" power. The scratches that are on my car are spider-web scratches and most of the time you can only see them when you are in certain light. So i don't know if I should get SSR1 or SSR2....which one do you all think would be better??

The reason i was getting SSR2 is because i thought i would be safer. Plus I will touch up with PwC, EX-P and Natty's. So what ya think??

Thanks
Brent :dunno
 
What color a car do you have?

My personal choice is both, not to say that you can't get away with one.

The SSR2 is for cutting and that will take away the webbing that you have and the SSR1 will help to level the clear if you will and set the paint up for the P-w-C that you put on next.

Also if you are going to go threw all this clay the car after washing or during, it will give you back a much better product in the end.

If you are going to buy just one get the SSR2 the P-w-C will help to polish out and bring back the luster
 
SSR2 to isnt too abrasive its pretty mild stuff. My product combo is 2.5 and 1. I dont really have alot of luck removing defects using 2. I guess if you would be willing to make enough passes then it woudl work. I would reccomend 2.5 and 1 for the removal of swirls. PwC will also like beemerboy said bring a little more clarity and pop.

Greg
 
okay that sounds good. i guess i will go with ssr 2.5 and then ssr1....my car is dark shadow grey metallic..

so here is my process....what do ya think??

wash
clay
ssr2.5
ssr1
Pwc
RMG
EX-P
Natty's

also is there anything special that I should know when it comes to applying these products?? like i know with some products some people say something about work the product in until it disappears. What are they referring too??

Thanks
Brent :jump
 
What's RMG? not sure what that is.

Sounds like a lot of work but will turn out great I'm sure.

For the application if you are working by hand, work in 12 x 12 inch areas so that you can keep good control of the product and pressure. What they mean by working until it disapears is more about using a rotary or PC. By hand use small amounts about dime size and really work into the area not with allot of pressure but more about the motion than anything. The product should start to break down and will start to work the clear for you.
 
The SSR's you will want to work until they just become a thin film and they start to slightly dust. When the polish becomes thin you know its time to remove. I woudl start with a polishing pad with the ssr2.5 and if after a couple passes it doesnt cut it then jump up to a light cut pad. You will want a polishing pad, a new one, for the ssr1 to clean up after the 2.5. You should apply at least 2 coats for even coverage with the EX-P. you shoudl wait 24 hours between coats of your lsp. So EXP (24) EXP (24) nattys (24) and so on. PwC you can apply with a white polishing pad or by hand.

Greg
 
Man you all respond fast!!!

RMG is Red Moose Machine Glaze.
I will be applying these products with a PC. So hopefully that will make the applications a little bit easier. How will I know if the SSR stuff is "cutting" into the clearcoat??

Also I am wanting to use 7.5" LC pads...I will need a few so is there anywhere to buy them individually?? Or can you mix n' match a kit??

Thank again
Brent
 
You will know it is cutting into the CC by seeing the swirls and defects diminish. IF the swirls are gone or less then it is donig its job. Dont be afraid to take multiple passes.

For pads you can get them from our sponsers. I dont think they will mix and match kits. I woudl reccomend getting a light cutting pad, as many polishing pads as you can afford, and a finishing pad, maybe 2 if your going to apply lsp via pc.

Greg
 
awesome!! THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!

i was still sort of leary as to whether i really needed both ssr's. simply because if i am standing over my car washing it i cant really see the scratches??
 
I'd still go with getting both. This way, if you do create some marring with the 2.5, it will be very easy to fix with the SSR 1. You will have a great mirror finish too by going over with 1. You could even do a test by doing the entire area with 2.5, then half of that with SSR 1 and the other half with PwC. You may be able to skip to the PwC without using SSR 1. I have done this before when using a mild polishing pad. See what works best for your paint. Take pics too!

Mike
 
So I guess there is a chance that I could ruin my paint using ssr2.5 and a polishing pad....something that I might not be able to fix??

Brent
 
stang03 said:
So I guess there is a chance that I could ruin my paint using ssr2.5 and a polishing pad....something that I might not be able to fix??

Brent
Click to expand...
Technically, it is possible for you to "ruin" your paint using SSR2.5 and a polishing pad. However, you'd just about have to run it continuously at high speed over the very same spot for a long time. You are more likely to damage your paint by accidentally dropping the entire machine onto the hood than by using SSR2.5 with a polishing pad in a responsible manner.
 
stang03 said:
So I guess there is a chance that I could ruin my paint using ssr2.5 and a polishing pad....something that I might not be able to fix??

Brent
Click to expand...

Highly Unlikely IMO. I've used it on single stage paint all day long with a polishing pad and would have been comfortable (if I weren't a member of this forum) going straight to my LSP. SSR3 might have the power to do some damage if used improperly. I dont think you have anything to worry about with SSR 2.5. I find myself using a cutting pad with it as well, and never had any problems (PC or Rotory).

In your original post I think the PwC/RMG step could be one more than is really necessary. PwC is a paint cleaner that leaves behind some protection and RMG is a glaze. If it were me, I would probably do one or the other. You really dont need any "polishing" that PwC is going to provide since you are stepping down from SSR2.5 to SSR1. I think you'll be very happy with the look after SSR1. If it were *me* doing the job, I would use one or the other (PwC/RMG)...not much of a glaze guy myself. PwC really doesnt get the play that it deserves either IMO. I dont think it will hurt to do both, but that's going to take you longer and run into that time after the detail where you sit back, have a beer and say (out loud to yourself) "yep, she looks good." :beer

Have fun, post pics

-Wade
 
I can't wait till I get to that point Wade, that sure will be nice (if all goes well of course)....but thanks for all of the input. I will take all of ya'lls advice and apply it to the best of my ability. The job should be completed within a couple of weeks and I will be sure to post some pics for you guys.

Thanks again
Brent
 
"GregCavi"

what would be the proper procedure of applying these different products. As with SSR2.5 and SSR1 you said "don't be afraid to make multiple passes". So i should put the product on the pad, dab it on one section of the car and then work it in until it disappears. What is the best procedure....

Brent
 
stang03 said:
"GregCavi"

what would be the proper procedure of applying these different products. As with SSR2.5 and SSR1 you said "don't be afraid to make multiple passes". So i should put the product on the pad, dab it on one section of the car and then work it in until it disappears. What is the best procedure....

Brent
Click to expand...

Exactly. You want to make multiple passes over the same small area until it disappears or you start to notice it dusting. You'll get the hang of it right away.
 
:yeah Sorry I was out working on the van from hell. Work in 2x2 foot sections until the polish dissapears then remove. IF there are still swirls then try another pass. IF there is just hazing then you could go to ssr1 to remove the hazing or micromarring.

Greg
 
Sounds good, I guess once I start the whole process things will start falling in place....Ill keep you all updated.

Keep checking back I am sure I may PM you all for some more tips or info.

Thanks again
Brent
 
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