SSR1 and VM instructions for PC

CurtisS

CurtisS

Black G35
I have read read read and then read some more, but now it is time to do it. I tried to SSR1 all my little spider webs out of my black finish by hand but just like every said, get the PC so I did. My question is how much product on applicator, how big of an area to work on with that amount on the applicator, what does "dust up" look like as I do not know if I ever saw it by hand. How long does it take to "dust up" and motion sould I use. Same questions for VM.
 
With the SSR1, I would start by applying 2 beads of product on the pad in an "X" pattern.

Then, place the pad on paint and spread it around on the area you are going to work (about a 2' x 2' area), without turning the PC on.

Then, turn the PC on to about 3 (with the pad on the paint), and make one pass over the area to insure that the pad is primed, and the area is covered with a light coat of the product.

Now, turn the PC up to 5 (with the pad on the paint), and work the area with slighty overlapping strokes in all directions (back and forth, side to side, and diagonally). Also, make sure you move the PC very slowly as you are working the area.

It doesn't take but a minute or two for the SSR1 to start dusting.......... and you will know it, as you will see little white particles in the area. When you see them, turn the PC off (with pad on the paint), and wipe the area free of all remaining product and dust.

Check, and re-work the area if necessary.

Someone else will have to give you instructions for using the VM with a PC............ haven't done that.
 
Boss_429 said:
Someone else will have to give you instructions for using the VM with a PC............ haven't done that.
Click to expand...


Vanilla Moose applies much the same way. I will use either a polishing or finishing pad. Use a similar amount, and start out the same way. Crank it up to 4.5 or so, and work it for a minute or so. VM doesn't really break down or dry out. Wipe of with an MF towel adn you are good to go.
 
Use very little product with either product too, they both spread very thin. Use too much and the finish will be greasy with extra residue.
Also, don't be surprised if they are not aggressive enough to do anything for your swirls.
 
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What should I expect from the finish after SSR1. All Siwlrs/Sipider Webs Gone and left with what looks like fine sanding lines or keep working it until it is a pure glass finish? Spider webs are quite minor since by hand it got rid of 70% of them but still looking for that perfect finish.
 
SSR1 will work to get out minor spiderwebing. I wouldn't say it will remove all swirls though. It really depends on what your paint looks like and without seeing it I wouldn't say for sure what anything would do.
 
I have SSR1, 2 and 2.5. How would you work and inspect the paint until you are satisfied with the results? After the applications of the products are you looking for no more webs and are you left with some ultra fine sanding lines that would be taken care of with VM or PWC?
 
Well, first of all I guess I should say that there's only so much you can do. If the paint has sanding marks in it, or it's not a very good paint job (which some from the factory are not very good) you aren't going to get it all out by polishing.

I have heard poeple on here say to start out with the least abrasive possible, so if SSR1 won't cut it, then step up to something a little more "John Wayne."

If you are applying by machine I say go SSR2 or 2.5 depending on the swirls. Some say you can go straight from this step to something like VM. (If you are NOT satisfied with the results after SSR2, then use SSR1.)

On my personal car, I look for as close to a mirror like finish as possible with no (or as little as possible) swirls/spiderwebbing. It all really comes down to personal taste. Find what you think looks the best and then go with it. There's no one "right" way to do any of this.

P.S. After each step you can inspect for swirls by spraying/wiping the paint down with alcohol:water (50:50). Then, if satisfied, get to it with the glaze, sealant, or wax.

P.P.S. Curtis, by no means am I a professional and my procedures are amatuer at best.
 
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