SSR 2.5 routine and also why does it create mini craters / pits

I

imported_flightz71

New member
Hey guys,



Have been working on my 2003 Laguna Seca Blue M3 for days now with a Porter Cable, Edge pads and SSR polishes.



I finally figured out a routine to get rid of swirls and imperfections (car has NEVER been polished...so 4 years)



1. SSR 2.5 + Edge Green Light Cut Pad

2. SSR 2.5 + Edge Green Light Cut Pad Again

3. SSR 2.5 + Edge Blue Polish Pad

4. SSR 1.0 + Edge Blue Polish Pad

5. SSR 1.0 + Edge White Finishing Pad

6. Menzerna's Mirror Glaze + Edge White Finishing Pad



As one can imagine...this takes forever (spend 8 hours already to only have finished 1/3 of the car (need to wipe, clean residues often..etc)



I'm pretty satisfied with the results but i noticed that the Poorboy's polishes leave little pits in the finish?!?!?!



Can someone tell me how my routine is and what is causing the pitting?



Also, haven't glazed yet, what speed do you guys reccommend going at and for how long?



Also, my Menzerna's FMJ Sealant should be able to adhere to the glaze right?



Thanks in advanced!



-Calvin :xyxthumbs
 
I don't know where you are located, but my guess would be the pits are from acid rain, bird poop, rail/brake dust, or other atmospheric contamination, and you just didn't notice them until you polished the surface.
 
I have also experienced this pitting from 2.5, and never did quite figure it out! I switched to Optimum and solved the problem that way! I attributed it to insufficient abrasive breakdown. But then why did it happen only on occasion? My method was quite a bit simpler then yours also, Orange, medium cutting pad followed by SSR2 and a green polishing pad. 9 out of 10 times it eluded me, but that 10th time worried me. It only took a few times for me to make a decision.

Im certain it can be avoided once one discovers why it was happening. The SSR line is a good family of polishes.......
 
a.k.a. Patrick said:
I have also experienced this pitting from 2.5, and never did quite figure it out! I switched to Optimum and solved the problem that way! I attributed it to insufficient abrasive breakdown.
Click to expand...



I don't see how the motion of a PC, can create a feature like a pit, unless it's tearing something out of the surface (like a piece of rail dust).
 
I see the pitting here in seattle alot. I have attributed it to salt etching, or pitting. I Only seem to see it from cars that come from one of the Peuget Sound islands or from Alaska's coast.



My guess is 2.5 is not making the pits, but your wipe down process is removing anything that might be filling it.
 
thanks for the help guys. Anyone else?



And about the glaze, will Menzera's FMJ have a problem adhering to it?





Also, what products in the optimum line are equivalent to SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0?



Thanks again!
 
Grouse said:
My guess is 2.5 is not making the pits, but your wipe down process is removing anything that might be filling it.
Click to expand...

Gotta disagree. The pitting was not evident prior to working on this. But it did have better then average wash induced swirls, hence the choice of 2.5. I used an Orange pad with the 2.5, I did my normal 3 passes, about 25% compression on the pad. This was only the second job I can remember it ever happening on, so it may be paint /car type dependant. The 3rd pass was real slow. What may have been the issue was the pad was orbiting too fast (6) and the abrasives didnt "roll" themselves out. If I had the time to do it again, i would accept a lower speed with the PC, as well as slower arm movement, and possibly an additional one or two passes.

rightrearafter3.jpg


It wasnt this particular time detailing this Carrera, but the time before. It almost appeared as if it went thru the desert during a windstorm.
 
Look right above your last post:bigups



good luck with your car! I will be ordering some OP and OC later today, cant wait to use them! Ive been using the SSR line as well but I really dont like the dusting, supposedly OP and OC dont dust, cant wait to try them!



Jim
 
They only have one polish ,and two compounds the best bit is you change the cut depending on pad type .

Been using there polish alone now for some time ,8 hrs to do one third of the car sounds painfull pull out the rotary and never look back
 
patrick how did you get rid of the pits?? that porsche looks nice, are the pits still there?? I just now had this problem and its driving me nuts!



tons and tons of pits on black paint! cant figure this one out???



will the optimum cause this as well??



Jim
 
I use OP most pf the time but when I get to a car that needs something more aggressive I go to SSR2.5. Even going with a yellow CCS pad with the OP sometimes isn't aggressive enough. I love OP and it is my "go to" polish but every once in a while I need more. But the dusting is a PITA! I wish there were another polish that cut like SSR but didn't dust.
 
Yeah i tried many ways and gave up (laguna seca blue 2003 M3). Super annoyed at the pits and at SSR2.5 right now.



I would use menzerna's but those polishes are geared more towards rotarys.



I think i'm gonna try out the optimum compound and polish.



Anyone else with pitting problems?:wall
 
flightz71 said:
Yeah i tried many ways and gave up (laguna seca blue 2003 M3). Super annoyed at the pits and at SSR2.5 right now.



I would use menzerna's but those polishes are geared more towards rotarys.



I think i'm gonna try out the optimum compound and polish.



Anyone else with pitting problems?:wall
Click to expand...

You do not need a rotary to get excellent results from FP and IP. I use them with the PC all the time.
 
Newb to all this, but it just seems to me that much of the specificity of use for either PC or Rotary is a lot of hype.

I mean, why would a compound or polish be better suited to one and not the other machine if they can be all used by hand?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top