Spread the polish with KBM?

I

ISLover

New member
After priming the pad and adding a few dots of product, do you still spread the product around on a low speed in the traditional manner or do you just lay it down and drop the hammer??? :buffing:
 
You still want to spread the polish. I dont really think the KBM really changes that part of it :D





But who knows. When said paper comes out, he may prove me wrong.
 
Hmm, I was under the impression that you did -not- spread the polish with the KBM.



I can't wait to read his paper. :)
 
Oh really? That would be quite interesting. What would be the reasoning behind that?



I cant imagine getting a uniformed polishing without spreading the product evenly but maybe thats the purpose of priming the pad with the product.
 
Hopefully someone else chimes in, because I'm far from 100% certain, but I have had successful results simply with a properly primed pad without spreading while working small 18x18 areas.
 
I'm no pro at this but after priming the pad to about 80% saturation I then put a few dots of product, spread/smear w/ the machine off then spread w/ the machine at speed three before bumping up to six; if for no other reason than just habit.
 
citizen arcane said:
I'm no pro at this but after priming the pad to about 80% saturation I then put a few dots of product, spread/smear w/ the machine off then spread w/ the machine at speed three before bumping up to six; if for no other reason than just habit.
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:werd:



This is how I roll too. I mean isn't the point of spreading/smearing with the machine off is to prevent splatter/sling? :nervous2:
 
That is how I've always done it as well. Just was curious if KBM somehow made it different since the pad is primed so well already. Bryan, PorcheGuy, maybe we could get your input since you know the process well?
 
I'd rather wait for Kevin Brown to say.



But FWIW I don't spread the polish when I'm doing this sort of technique via DA. EDIT: well, not much, and not in the sense that I think we're talking about here.



Spreading out M105 can make it dry/flash mighty quick anyhow.
 
Thanks Accumulator, that is kinda what I thought.



I would wait for the paper but my son needs his new ride polished, he is on me everyday about it. Paper stilll looks to be a long time coming.
 
ISLover- Just make sure you keep the pads *CLEAN*, you can't overdo that. Be careful buffing off M105 residue (maybe spritz with some #34).



Don't lean on the machine so hard that you have an "oops" and avoid the "just a little more and it'll be Autopian-perfect!" temptation lest you live to regret it.



Prime the pads right. Press fairly hard and then lighten up. Clean the pads (or get out a fresh one) more often than you think you need to. Have realistic expectations. You oughta do fine.



Have your son assist you so he can learn and better appreciate the end-result ;)
 
^What you mean by "press faily hard then lighten up". Is that after 1,2,3, passes or during your pass or? Thanks...When you clean your pads you use a brush of some sort to clean while spinning or you take off pad and completely wash it out? THanks...Spritz #34 same as some ONR QD or lube? Thanks...As for not spreading are you saying you just prime pad add a few dots start on 6 press on one spot and go to town? THanks...
 
I've found with M105 and my understanding of the KB method that 3 passes is about the max you get before it flashes. Again, I prime the pad well, use a good amount of pressure on the PC, work a small area with 3 passes. If the pad is primed properly you won't get any "sling", even when starting at a high speed (5-6). Someone suggested using a microfiber to "clean" the pad off after each section, but I have yet to try this - it seems like a good idea though, especially if you are like me and don't have lots of pads (I actually just tripled my amount of Orange pads today).



M105 only really becomes difficult to remove if too much product is on the pad. I've also found the best way to remove a stubborn spot of M105 is to use M205 on a white pad on that area very briefly.



I'm far from a pro though, especially when it comes to M105/205.
 
Perferd said:
^What you mean by "press faily hard then lighten up". Is that after 1,2,3, passes or during your pass or?
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Maybe up to three. I try to gauge how it's going so I can do a few light ones too before it flashes. And if you're not removing serious defects from hard paint you might not need to press all that hard anyhow....this gets to be a case-by-case thing IME. In some cases I do all the work with significant pressure.



Just remember that the harder you press (and the higher the speed you use), the faster the product will do everything, including flash.



When you clean your pads you use a brush of some sort to clean while spinning or you take off pad and completely wash it out?
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I usually just spritz some water or #34 on the pad and rub it with a cotton towel. I've tried MF but I like cotton better, but it's been pointed out that some cotton towels a) shed a lot of fibers, and b) those fibers might get stuck to the pad and cause marring so be careful. I don't use enough product to require a brush.



After a while I *do* take off the pads and replace/wash them out as the above mentioned process does just push some product/cut clear down into the pad IMO and after a while it's just not effective enough.



...Spritz #34 same as some ONR QD or lube?
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I specifically like #34 for this, not other QDs/etc. Just #34.

...As for not spreading are you saying you just prime pad add a few dots start on 6 press on one spot and go to town?
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Yeah. I myself use a number of *tiny* dots but I dunno if that's really much better than fewer slightly bigger ones or not :nixweiss



I only do this stuff via PC with 4" pads and I use speeds 4-5 for that. With the Flex 3401 I'm using speed 5 most of the time, and while I feather the trigger just a bit at the beginning, yeah I just do all my work at the high/working speed with no slow-speed initial work.
 
ISLover said:
After priming the pad and adding a few dots of product, do you still spread the product around on a low speed in the traditional manner or do you just lay it down and drop the hammer??? :buffing:
Click to expand...



Sorry if this has already been said, I didn't read the whole thread, but that's exactly how I do it, "lay it down and drop the hammer." No pre-spreading at all.



I would think you could get away with doing some pre-spreading with 205. Much more so than 105, although the new formula doesn't flash quite as fast as the old stuff.



Anyway... you can definitely get good results without pre-spreading either product.
 
Perferd said:
...whats flash mean??
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Flashing is when a product dries on the panel, when the oils/carrier agents/etc. evaporate and you're left with the solid stuff. It's not *exactly* the same as "drying" but for practical purposes it's close enough.
 
As for the spreading, the only time I even do it with M205 is when I have a bit much on the pad and I don't want to end up with a lot more on the first part of the section I'm working and a lot less on the last part. The better I gauge the "how much product to add after priming", and how big an area to work, the less I have to think about such stuff.
 
I don't spread with M105, but do with M205. Maybe I will try not spreading with M205.



As far as pressure, you do not want the pad to stop spinning or the pad to spin CCW. If you have more severe defects and a hard clearcoat, you will need more pressure. Less pressure on softer clears with low amount of defects.
 
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