SIP vs IP

BlueZero

BlueZero

New member
Is there much of a difference between the two? According to the autogeek chart they have the same cut and gloss. I will be using them with a PC. On regular paint, not the scratch resistant stuff. I still planing on using Megs #80 for my fine polishing needs, but would like something with a bit more bite. I just can't get the results I want with #83. I have searched for a few hours and didn't see any direct comparison, I could have missed it.



Thanks in advance for any help!
 
SIP cuts faster and more then regular IP. But it also finishes out much better. Sometimes their is no need for a final polish. I have been finishing dark coloured paints with rotary and Menzerna PO85RD3.02. SIP is PO85RD3.01.



Bin the MG80 and use SIP on a finishing pad/polishing instead.
 
Blackfire SRC compound is almost the same(contains more lubrication) but this is a lot more expensive I think?
 
SIP is a weaker cut. PO91E is the original clear intensive and will remove 1500 grit to 2000 grit marks and can be used with anything from black edge to white LC.

SIP doesn't have as much grunt. I dunno it just doesn't cut it (literally) on original clears
 
I have SIP 3.02 from Germany and don't think I'll ever use anything but that from now on. It worked magic on my black vette and finished perfectly with NO NEED for additonal polishing. However, there is a learning curve to it. Check recent threads on how to use it properly with an orange pad. You do not use lines of polish like other products. Use only two pea sized dabs and polish until clear. I have only applied this product with a rotory so don't really know how well it would work by PC. While I'm on the subject, I feel that I must get this off my chest. Many, many people on this site keep asking about the proper product to help them achieve awesome results. Yet they keep using a PC to apply polish. Polish requires heat to break down properly and this is best acheived via rotory. Polishing never came together for me UNTIL I picked up a rotory. Then everything changed and my eyes were opened. I know that there are many here who work wonders with a PC but for the majority of the rest of us the answer lies just as much in the tool as the polish. For me it's just this simple. My rotory does all my correction and my PC applies all my glazes and waxes. Stop being affraid of the rotory. It's what's holding you back!



Patrick
 
ptaylor_9849 said:
Stop being affraid of the rotory. It's what's holding you back!Patrick
Click to expand...



So true. I keep trying to stretch the limits of my PC when I really should just get a rotary. Thanks for your help porta, SVR and ptaylor_9849!
 
I have found on original clear that 85 RD 3.01 has no balls on medium to heavy damage but 91L did the job. weird. maybe it was the ford paint
 
I just received an order of PO106FF and SIP from AG and an order of PO85RD from Detailer's Domain. Of the three, the SIP is the most aggressive product but compared to the others it feels like hand lotion. Is this normal for SIP?



Mike
 
Yes Mike, it does look like hand lotion and does not feel gritty when touched. However, don't let the consistency fool you. It is the best polish I have ever used and it rocks on hard clears. Only use two little pea sized dabs on the entire pad and polish that in until clear. Then wipe with dry MF towel. Don't let the pad become saturated with polish. Use very little and work in small sections at a time.



Patrick
 
Does SIP take very long to break down...i.e. slow like Optimum Polish or does it go more quickly?
 
Does SIP take very long to break down...i.e. slow like Optimum Polish or does it go more quickly?



Patrick, I also appreciate your quote on the rotary:



"Stop being affraid of the rotory. It's what's holding you back!"



While I appreciate people's caution, the rotary is still where it's at for compounding and polishing. The PC can do a lot, especially in the hands of someone patient enough to wait for the results, but the rotary is so much smoother and faster.
 
Break down time is dependent upon the size of the area you are working and the amount of polish you apply. Remember, this polish needs heat to break down. The larger the area you are working the longer it will take to generate enough heat in that area to break it down. Moreover, if you apply too much polish it will take much longer to break down all that product. Therefore, work in small areas and use VERY LITTLE product. Time wise, it probably takes 2-3 minutes of rotory polishing for an area about 2x2. But then again, it depends on the speed, pad, pressure applied etc. It does take quite a bit of time doing it this way but the results are well worth it. Then maintain proper washing techniques and you won't have to do this again for quite a while. The key to using this polish is: dry pad, small area, tiny amount of product and polish until clear.



Patrick
 
I agree with ptaylor's comment about doing proper corrections, I started off with the PC and I just wasen't getting the results I wanted untill I steped up to the rotary. I purchased the Metabo and never look back.



Before I purchased my Menzerna products, I did some research on the products and the feed back I was getting was all good and thought I got to try it out for my self and see if it lives up to it's reputation. Well, it sure does...it blew me away at how well the product works. The first time I used Menzerna I did my co-workers Mercedes SLK with the ceramic clear coat and the SIP finished off with FPII worked wonders.



So now all I use is Menzerna products and love the fact that Menzerna is becoming easely acessible here in Canada.



Just thought I'd share my $0.02 that's all :D
 
SIP is awesome, i use 106ff and it had a little hazing afterwards , but when i use SIP to correct, it was like magic! love this stuff!:up
 
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