Shaving 1/4" holes... Mig'ed

I

integraoligist

New member
i plan on shaving the emblems off the hatch... there are 2 emblems and each have 2 1/4" hole mounts...



i was told i can just have a friend Mig the holes... then i can come back and sand it down then repaint...



1. is just Mig'ing these holes a good way to go?

and

2. how do you just "sand down" a mig weld? I thought you had to use a Grinder with a sanding wheel.... but i'm not all to good with using it... is there another way to sand down JUST the hole and small surrounding area without going crazy having to repaint a large portion?



Thanks all!
 
integraoligist said:
i plan on shaving the emblems off the hatch... there are 2 emblems and each have 2 1/4" hole mounts...



i was told i can just have a friend Mig the holes... then i can come back and sand it down then repaint...



1. is just Mig'ing these holes a good way to go?

and

2. how do you just "sand down" a mig weld? I thought you had to use a Grinder with a sanding wheel.... but i'm not all to good with using it... is there another way to sand down JUST the hole and small surrounding area without going crazy having to repaint a large portion?



Thanks all!
Click to expand...





I *think* they used the MIG (as opposed to a different welder) on the holes I had filled on the MPV's hatch, but I'm not sure. I do know that MIG welding has been used for this on previous jobs of this type (if I'm having repainting done, I nose/deck every time ;) ). After the grinding the weld smooth (yeah, it really *is* as tough a job as you fear, think "high speed grinder"), you'll need some lead/mud/filler, then primer, then maybe a little final putty work and more primer. How much grinding/fillling/etc. you'll have to do will depend on how cleanly the welder does his thing, but you'll have to do some and no way would I do it myself (and I *have* done it before).



Blending the paint shouldn't be a huge issue, but again, it depends on how good the shop is. I'm pretty particular, I'd have the glass pulled if the area being worked is gonna have any paintwork done right up to it.



Oh, remember that you'll have to have the *back side* of the welded panel painted too, or else it'll rust out later. You could use something crude but effective like POR-15 but you *do* have to be able to access the area in question.



You're sorta opening a can of worms, depending on how good your body/paint shop is. While I always remove glued-on emblems, I don't remove the pinned-on ones unless I already have a reason to have the paintwork done. It *would* be a cool touch on your car, though....
 
Do you care how it looks and how long the job will last ? Either route you take ( Mig or Bondo) your going to need to sand the area . Bondo has the chance of cracking over time , welding you run the chance of warpping the panel from over heating it. 1/4 " holes aren't that big a deal , I would mig them and grind it smooth , use a glazing putty to fill the grind marks ,sand that smooth and your ready for finishing .
 
I still have my hatch holes and I want to get them shaved as well. It probably would be best to weld them in as I have heard bondo stories of the holes reappearing whenever you put a decent amount of pressure in that area. At least with welding, it'll bond much better despite the fact that you migh warp the metal. Just be sure to find a reputable shop that will weld it for you guaranteed.
 
I dunno....no way would I let anyone except the most skilled/experienced autobody guy weld on any of *my* vehicles. I wouldn't want somebody trying this for the first (or fifteenth) time, I'd want somebody who's already done it (successfully) a zillion times.



This isn't some little job...after the welding you'll have to find a painter who's good. I'd sure think this one through before having anything done. I just *hated* the pinned on emblems on our MPV, but I never would've had it decked/shaved had that woman not rear-ended it.
 
Most horror stories about body filler (Bondo) come from doing it wrong. Most people just glop it on. It's supposed to be applied to clean, rust-free base metal in thin layers. It's not meant to span an opening. To successfully fill a hole and not fall out later the hole has to be very small and the area surrounding the hole should be "dimpled in" to give the filler something to stick to. I would try to avoid it if at all practical.



I don't know if pipe fitters typically work with thin-wall tubing that would be similar to body sheet metal. If your brother thinks he can do it try a few test panels first. Get a piece of sheet of similar gauge or, better yet, a junk body panel from the same type of car, drill some holes and try a few.



I agree that you need to prep and paint the back of the panel too (although I would use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator myself).





PC.
 
the other pc said:
...I agree that you need to prep and paint the back of the panel too (although I would use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator myself).
Click to expand...



Yeah, me too but POR-15 was easier to type :o
 
well, i'll tell you what... I'm going to be putting Vinyl on the car (yes i know, but it scores points with judges :)) and i could just cover the holes right over with the Vinyl...



but what could i fill them in with so that the vinyl dosent "dimple" or anything? so that it's nice and smooth over the holes?
 
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