Seriously eyeballing the Makita BO6040...

[Garry Dean]

Any experience? Thoughts?

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

I still say you should pick up a G110v2...



Between that and the DB you would be pretty well set.



Main reason I say that is the BO6040 has a 7/32" DA stroke length, which is smaller than that of the PCXP/GG6/Shurhold/G110v2 (5/16") and MUCH smaller than that of the Dynabrade (3/4"). That means it would theoretically provide even less cutting power for compounding purposes, though I suppose there could be some value in it for finishing down with a tight patterned tool.



To me, it just doesn't seem worth the price of entry. Save the cash and equip your new shop with an industrial capacity air compressor (5HP/80-Gal. or higher) so you can use pneumatic sanders/polishers and whatnot... just my $0.02

 

[MichaelM]

I've had a couple of them for a handful of years. I also have a couple PCs, Makita rotarys and Flex 3401s, for reference.



If the BO6040 was a car it'd be a Cadillac. It runs extremely smooth without the vibrations you get from the smaller machines. Very nice to use on bigger jobs where you'll have the machine in your hands for a long time. Compared to the PC it feels like a brute in that it will not bog down, more then powerful enough. Also it seems to need less speed compared to the PC to do the same correction. The speed control is also much better in that there is a true gradient from 0-6 whereas the PC only has increases on the numbers while there are clicks all the way through, if that makes any sense. IMO the smaller throw of the Makita isn't a concern when it comes to correction. You know how the PC will spin a little if you let off the pressure a bit, well the Makita does that at all times which helps with correction capability.



Like most Cadillacs it is also on the heavy side. I'm a bigger guy so the weight of the machine never bothered me but some of my smaller employees have made mention of the weight especially on vertical panels. Also the forced rotation mode is much more difficult to control compared to the Flex so that function was rarely used.



I bought the 6040 after not being satisfied with the quality of the original PC. The PC just felt like a "my first buffer" kind of thing. I've polished a couple thousand cars with both of my 6040's and they've never needed anything other then new cords. Typical Makita quality.



All that being said, since I picked up the Flexes I've hardly used the 6040. The flex does what the 6040 does but faster. If you don't like the Flex and want to stick with a PC style DA then the Makita is a good choice. Just keep a PC around for polishing tighter areas and you're set.

 

[imported_Erik Mejia1]

Send Bob Whyte AKA WHYTEWIZARD a pm. He has extensive experience with this unit.

 

[usdm]

Any experience? Thoughts?

I got one. Works a treat on horizontal spots, a bit of a bear on the verticals. I find I get better results and control with the G6 or my rotary.



Personally, Im eyeing this lil badboy:

available in both 5" and 6" models,



uses standard backing pads with a 5/16threaded mount,



variable speeds from 4,000 to 10,000 opm,



SPL- approx 70db,



available in three stroke diameters- 3/32, 3/16, and 5/16



weighs less than 3lbs



At about 500.00 it aint cheap. But Im betting youll more than make up for it with all the work you get. Mr Kevin Brown carries them, give him a shout as he could probably give a lot more detail than I ever could.

 

[BookemDano]

I got one. Works a treat on horizontal spots, a bit of a bear on the verticals. I find I get better results and control with the G6 or my rotary.



Personally, Im eyeing this lil badboy:

available in both 5" and 6" models,



uses standard backing pads with a 5/16threaded mount,



variable speeds from 4,000 to 10,000 opm,



SPL- approx 70db,



available in three stroke diameters- 3/32, 3/16, and 5/16



weighs less than 3lbs



At about 500.00 it aint cheap. But Im betting youll more than make up for it with all the work you get. Mr Kevin Brown carries them, give him a shout as he could probably give a lot more detail than I ever could.

I have the Ceros 6". Awesome sander. Dust collection with Festool sandpaper and Mirka Abranet is almost perfect. But...



It isn't a great polisher. It's pure RO and the orbit is only 5mm. In the US, that is.



In Europe, they have a sanding head that is 8mm and one that is 2.5 mm. The 8mm would be in GG class as a polisher and the 2.5mm is a very nice finish sander. The paddle switch offers variable speed in one mode which gives you excellent on-the-fly speed control.



I also have a Festool RO150 FEQ, which is very similar to that Makita. For vertical SANDING the Ceros is way better. For polishing, I could have used my RO150, but I bought a Flex 4301 to use for polishing.



YMMV.



Dan.

 

[Kevin Brown]

Personally, Im eyeing this lil badboy:

Mr Kevin Brown carries them, give him a shout as he could probably give a lot more detail than I ever could.

Thanks for the mention! Here's my site's CEROS PAGE, with all the info I could muster about the machine.



Until I get a handle on which specific size and disc(s) to use with the CEROS (the machine's thermal shutdown protection circuit kicks on when using microfiber discs and abrasive-laden compounds after only a few minutes), I'm not recommending it for extended use.



I'm trying to work things through with my Mirka USA contacts to get ahold of another 5/16" stroke CEROS. I had the only one in the USA as a loaner, and had to send it back. I just received word today that the 5/16" versions are in stock now.



Perhaps it was just a fluke with the machine I had in my possession.



Pretty certain that a small diameter, very thin foam pad will work just fine. Microfiber discs and liquids such as Meguiar's M101, M105, and D300 create a tremendous contact patch upon the paint surface, so all the "abrasive activity" seems to tax the motor a bit, but that's really not the whole deal. I think mass shifting of the pads is an issue as well.



As soon as I pay off a couple Mirka invoices, I'll be getting at least one of each 6" model in stock. Mirka is adding to the CEROS line... some real exciting stuff ahead if all goes as planned.



For double-duty (sanding and polishing), a 3/16" or 5/16" stroke machine is my preference, at least with this machine. It is feasible to swap the backing plate for a different size with this machine; it takes a standard 5/16"-24 thread!

 

[Kevin Brown]

... I also have a Festool RO150 FEQ, which is very similar to that Makita. For vertical SANDING the Ceros is way better. For polishing, I could have used my RO150, but I bought a Flex 4301 to use for polishing...Dan.

I have used the Rotex RO 150 FEQ, and I LOVE it!



Compared to the Flex XC 3401 VRG (full-time forced rotation) and the Bosch 1250 DEVS (similar to the Makita BO6040), the Festool is WAY more comfortable to use, and it is extremely capable, even in random mode. BIG plus- it spins in the proper direction!!!



I have not used the BO6040.



I will be carrying the Festool on my site pretty soon... gonna be a Festool dealer!! :woot:

 

[BookemDano]

Kevin,



I'm interested in the 680. One thing... I want just the head, not the entire unit. I already have the power supply with my 650) and I don't need the Systainer. Can you get just the head?



Regards,



Dan.

 

[BookemDano]

FYI... Here's a pic of my "shop". The reason that I don't want a Mirka Systainer is that I've switched mostly to T-locs. With the systainer carts, it's very easy to get at any T-loc in the stack. Btw, those stacks of T-locs on the carts... They're two deep (4 carts). Yes, I like Festool stuff. :nod:



Regards,



Dan.

 

[Kevin Brown]

Kevin,



I'm interested in the 680. One thing... I want just the head, not the entire unit. I already have the power supply with my 650) and I don't need the Systainer. Can you get just the head? ...

FYI... Here's a pic of my "shop". The reason that I don't want a Mirka Systainer is that I've switched mostly to T-locs. With the systainer carts, it's very easy to get at any T-loc in the stack. Btw, those stacks of T-locs on the carts... They're two deep (4 carts). Yes, I like Festool stuff. :nod:



Regards,



Dan.

OH MY GOSH ! ! ! :wacko:

You have Festooliosis Disease! :drool:​

Not only that, but you also illegally taped my conversations with my Mirka guys. :nono:



I have already requested that we be able to offer just the machines. It makes complete sense that a guy buy a complete CEROS system, and then add on machines as they are needed.



I've also requested that they dump the Systainer and instead sell the system in a cardboard box. Preferably, a box that'll allow me to ship the complete system via USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate Large Box. That would save the customer the cost of the Systainer, and around $15-$30 for shipping.



I think that change may be on the horizon... if the machine becomes available as a stand alone unit, I will be sure to get ahold of you ASAP, as I really want to sell you STUFF!



I don't need to know your track record regarding tool purchases... the photo tells me all I need to know (two vacuums?!)



AWESOME.

 

[BookemDano]

I don't want to take the Ceros discussion much further because it will probably derail this thread. However, here are a couple of additional points...



- Working with a Ceros on vertical surfaces is WAY less tiring than using a large heavy sander like the RO150. That's a concern that I have for the Flex 3401 or the Makita polisher.



- The variable speed paddle switch makes it VERY easy to change speeds on the fly. Slow for delicate areas. Fast for some serious hammering.



- The light head makes it very easy to move very quickly. You control it with your fingertips in most horizontal situations (sanding) and with a light grip working vertical panels. With one hand. With heavier sanders, it's not possible to move that fast. So you slow down the orbit speed to compensate. With the Ceros, I've found that you can moving your hand faster with a higher orbit speed. That increases productivity.



The light head allows you to move much faster. Feathering the paddle switch gives you speed and control. It's a great combo. For sanding. Polishing with it is another issue that needs to be explored further.



Regards,



Dan.



p.s. Here's a link to the rests of my pic gallery including two pics of what the garage looked like a few months ago: Garage Project - DanClark's Photos - no insulation, no heat, minimal shelving, no place to park the cars, and very little place to work.

 

[David Fermani]

OH MY GOSH ! ! ! :wacko:

You have Festooliosis Disease! :drool:​

That's one of the funniest things I've heard in a while. :biggrin1:

 

[imported_WhyteWizard]

When it comes to the BO6040 the thing to remember is that it spins the opposite direction from the high speed, so you have to change your hand positions. With the high speed, rotary, polisher it's left hand on top, right hand on the tail. The contact patch, that is, the part of the pad where the majority weight is put against the panel tends to be top right, it's top left when using the BO6040. So, you use the Makita with your right hand on top and your forearm at about a right angle to the body and your left hand on the body with your index finger over the power button. You'll notice that when the machine contacts the panel, the pressure will be where it belongs.



As far as the Flex v. Makita, there's a major difference in the way the two machines achieve forced rotation. The Flex does it by interfacing the backing plate with the bell housing. The Makita does it by way of planetary gears. The Makita puts more movement between the pad and the paint, and is well balanced by design. This can be demonstrated by taking the counter weight handle off the Flex.



They're both good machines and I know people can get good results with either, but for me, it's hands down the Makita.



Robert

 

[usdm]

When it comes to the BO6040 the thing to remember is that it spins the opposite direction from the high speed, so you have to change your hand positions. With the high speed, rotary, polisher it's left hand on top, right hand on the tail. The contact patch, that is, the part of the pad where the majority weight is put against the panel tends to be top right, it's top left when using the BO6040. So, you use the Makita with your right hand on top and your forearm at about a right angle to the body and your left hand on the body with your index finger over the power button. You'll notice that when the machine contacts the panel, the pressure will be where it belongs.



As far as the Flex v. Makita, there's a major difference in the way the two machines achieve forced rotation. The Flex does it by interfacing the backing plate with the bell housing. The Makita does it by way of planetary gears. The Makita puts more movement between the pad and the paint, and is well balanced by design. This can be demonstrated by taking the counter weight handle off the Flex.



They're both good machines and I know people can get good results with either, but for me, it's hands down the Makita.



Robert

Ok, I never considered this. Maybe thats why it always felt a lil squirelly when I used the mak in forced rotation. Think I will try it again via your observation and see what the results are. It would be nice to have it back in regular rotation.

 

[Alfisti]

Remember, the BO6040 is a dual mode polisher. I use my BO6040 for 95% of my corrections. Always in forced rotation mode. With the correct pad/polish combo you'll rarely ever need a rotary. It's safe, relatively quick and produces great results.



If you want to use it just in DA mode then just buy a standard DA machine. It's the forced rotation mode that sets it apart from other machines.

 

[SVR]

the 6040 is a nice unit but Id still prefer to use a Flex XC 3401 and Kestrel 900 watt 8mm orbit RO machine oh and yes my Dynabrade RO head on the 9227 rotary



the more machines the better though, will say that

 

[Alfisti]

Why do you prefer the Flex over the 6040?

 

[Alfisti]

When it comes to the BO6040 the thing to remember is that it spins the opposite direction from the high speed, so you have to change your hand positions. With the high speed, rotary, polisher it's left hand on top, right hand on the tail. The contact patch, that is, the part of the pad where the majority weight is put against the panel tends to be top right, it's top left when using the BO6040. So, you use the Makita with your right hand on top and your forearm at about a right angle to the body and your left hand on the body with your index finger over the power button. You'll notice that when the machine contacts the panel, the pressure will be where it belongs.



As far as the Flex v. Makita, there's a major difference in the way the two machines achieve forced rotation. The Flex does it by interfacing the backing plate with the bell housing. The Makita does it by way of planetary gears. The Makita puts more movement between the pad and the paint, and is well balanced by design. This can be demonstrated by taking the counter weight handle off the Flex.



They're both good machines and I know people can get good results with either, but for me, it's hands down the Makita.



Robert

Are you saying the BO6040 cuts better/faster than the Flex in your experience?

 

[imported_WhyteWizard]

Are you saying the BO6040 cuts better/faster than the Flex in your experience?

Yes. If you put the same pad on both machines and run them both at full speed on the same panel for the same amount of time, with equal pressure the difference in heat/work is obvious.



Robert