sealant then wax, then sealant ontop of wax ?

S

schybrid

New member
I've clay barred my new car, then applied mothers sealant,then waxed with mothers carnuba wax.

my ??? is , can i reapply another coat of sealnt after waxing, or just rewax later and no sealant ?





i want to keep the car butter smooth all the time.

:nervous2:
 
Generally, a sealant has trouble bonding over a carnauba wax. Therefore, after the wax, I'd stick with that.
 
While I certainly understand the logic that a sealant can't properly bond to a carnauba, every time I read this I've often wanted to interject...

What can it hurt? Won't a sealant over a carnauba last as long as another layer of carnauba? Or, will it fall off, as you're backing out of the driveway?

(And I'm only half joking here, it's a serious question)
 
Jeff Laughhunn said:
While I certainly understand the logic that a sealant can't properly bond to a carnauba, every time I here this, I've often wanted to interject...

What can it hurt? Won't a sealant over a carnauba last as long as another layer of carnauba? Or, will it fall off, as you're backing out of the driveway?

(And I'm only half joking here, it's a serious question)
Click to expand...



My guess (and this is only a guess) is that the next time you wash your car, a decent amount of the top sealant will be removed.
 
So then a sealant over a carnauba is more "fragile" than two layers of carnauba? I wax my Mustang every month with _something_, whether its a sealant or carnauba, so durability is not an issue I can prove/disprove with my alternating products. It's just something I've wondered about, if anyone else has done any actual comparisons.
 
ok then, the questions are :



does sealant BOND to the pre-wax cleaned clearcoat, basically the sealant bonds to the clearcoat DIRECTLY, better than ONTOP of wax.



and 2ndly, Does it make sense to apply sealant more than 1-2 times per year then ? or would i just benefit with a montly coat of wax to keep the clear protected and shining?



is it truly necessary to use a pre-wax cleaner also. I'm using the Mothers 3 step program, it pre-wax cleaner,sealant,then wax. but my car is brand new , so i just clayed it, sealed, then waxed. is this ok, or is the pre-wax TRULY necessasry ?

btw, thanks for lookin' and respondin':think2
 
The pre-wax cleaner might help a little with reducing light swirls. All you can do is try it on a panel and see if it looks any better.
 
Consider sealent as a primer. Use it only on a bare surface or over itself. It is meant as a base so that any product will bond better to the surface,
 
Ok in my experience if you try putting a sealant on top of wax your finish will look all streaky kinda like you got some trim dressing on your paint. You will probably have to buff the car with a plush microfiber cloth over and over until the streaking is gone ie. you rub all the sealant off. I usually apply 2-3 coats of sealant on my cars at least 12 hours apart so they can cure properly. THis ensures great protection. I then either apply carnauba or a spray wax like Optimums spray wax every month or so for upkeep and it works great.
 
schybrid said:
ok then, the questions are :



does sealant BOND to the pre-wax cleaned clearcoat, basically the sealant bonds to the clearcoat DIRECTLY, better than ONTOP of wax.



and 2ndly, Does it make sense to apply sealant more than 1-2 times per year then ? or would i just benefit with a montly coat of wax to keep the clear protected and shining?



is it truly necessary to use a pre-wax cleaner also. I'm using the Mothers 3 step program, it pre-wax cleaner,sealant,then wax. but my car is brand new , so i just clayed it, sealed, then waxed. is this ok, or is the pre-wax TRULY necessasry ?

btw, thanks for lookin' and respondin':think2
Click to expand...



There is no sealant in the Mothers 3 step process. It's cleaner, glaze, and wax.
 
I have alternated FMJ & LS many times without bonding issues. I have used Optiseal in the same manner, without any repercussions. I imagine there are combos that can be used, if they are water-based..etc.
 
Dash said:
There is no sealant in the Mothers 3 step process. It's cleaner, glaze, and wax.
Click to expand...



good call



even know mothers calles it a sealer Sealer & Glaze Step 2



it is just a glaze used to visually hide imperfections

and give the paint some "pop"



it is not a sealer and works bests under the wax

and offers no protection



so give the wax a month or so to where off or remove it

before you use the glaze again
 
WTF????

the sealer /glaze is not actually a sealant ?

what is a good sealant then.

also, does the mothers glaze need time to cure ?

isnt the curing going to be hard to remove after leaving it on for hours ?

:nixweiss

lil help here fellas.:help:
 
Nope, step 2 is just a glaze. Personally, I would choose to either stick with the Mothers 3 step, or use a sealant. I wouldn't try to incorporate a sealant into the Mothers process.



With the Mother's process, you don't have to wait between steps. Wash the car, use the cleaner, apply the glaze, then top it off with the wax.
 
As a newb myself, this is a good question. I will probably be detailing our '03 Corolla this weekend and got the thinkin'. My goal is to polish the finish and then apply some CG's M-Seal (which I love so far), and then potentially some P21S 100% Carnuba that I have recently bought.



From reading this thread it appears that applying the P21S as my LSP would be detrimental as a future coat of M-Seal most likely won't bond as well. My goal is durability and protection. I don't have to add the P21S step... It looks great after the M-Seal alone. After washes I do use the Duragloss Aquawax 951 (excellent product also). But keeping mind that the AW is a spray sealant, I'm curious if I could layer P21S on top of the AW?



How often should I wash, at the point where the surface is no longer baby smooth?



What is the best way to prep the surface if I do apply the P21S and in the future want to apply the M-Seal? Obviously besides a wash would I need to re-clay it and potentially make a pass with Klasse AIO to make sure I have a clean bonding surface for the M-Seal. I'm trying to simplify this process as this is a vehicle that is outside 24/7 and in the South Carolina sun....



The color of the Corolla is Lunar Mist (silverish) if this at all matters.
 
IMO, Lunar Mist is one of those finishes that just doesn't need a wax - in fact, adding one seems to detract from the brilliance and pop from the finish. I'd just keep applying coats of sealant to your heart's content. That way you'll have the best protection, most durability, and plenty of compliments on the finish.



SCHybrid, I think you might be confusing setup time (how long you leave the product on before removing it) and curing time (how long between removing one coat and applying another). Dash certainly answered your question about waiting time with the Mother's three-step process, and I'd agree that including a true sealant probably isn't going to be beneficial...at least after the second step. It's probably fine to do so after the first step cleansing step.
 
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