Scratch X vs. Buffing Compound vs. Conventional Wax

A

azenthusiast

New member
I have a couple of darker colored vehicles that I am scheduled to detail over the next few weeks. I have washed them many times already. However, there is very pronounced hologramming/swirls in the paint. I am not experienced with wetsanding and definitely do not want to learn on $40K+ cars. However, I have heard about ScratchX and rubbing compound. How do these work? Are they effective or are they more of a snake oil product?



Btw, I am a college student and this for some family friends. I do not claim to be a pro and they know that.
 
I have used both ScratchX with some success as well as 3M's product (purchased at Wal-Mart) by hand to remove some swirls this past weekend and they both work well but are also a pain in the (you know what) to remove.....but they do work. I picked a small area and worked my way across my entire roof....



I'm sure others have thoughts on this as well...
 
ScratchX works if you work ScratchX.



I would stay away from rocks-in-a-can like Turtle Waxe's Rubbing Compound (and even their polishing compound) as these things are just as bad, if not worse than wet sanding. I have removed some pretty knarly things with ScratchX. With that said, you will not be able to get completely rid of swirls by hand, but you can dramatically improve it, no doubt. Just know that at the end of the day, both your arms will be ready to fall off.
 
As Wolf-Strong said, ScratchX is an excellent product and works very well when used correctly. It is however extremely mild. It will never damage a finish but it may take multiple applications and a lot of elbow grease.



If you have an old tube with instructions that say to let it dry, don’t. That’s a mistake. The work is done while rubbing. Wipe it off while it’s still moist and it will come off easily.



Because it is mild and safe, some defects may be too severe for ScratchX. AT that point it’s best to go to a machine.



There are many different brands and formulas for “rubbing compound.� The classic orange “rocks in a can� formulas are very aggressive and will totally haze the snot out of a clearcoat.





PC.
 
yeah, I guess I should mention that I'm a wuss and still do things by hand so your results will be limited by hand....I'm thinking about getting a UDM and trying it out on my old '92 Mustang....:buffing:
 
Thanks for the advice guys. Picked up some ScratchX and the 3M stuff at Wally World today. I got to try the Scratch X in a few areas as I am taking the badging off my Jeep. Hopefully tomorrow I can really try it out.



As for the UDM, I am going to get one in the future and practice a little on spare body panels first. The vehicles that the neighbors pay me to detail are a Jaguar, an SSR, and an Escalade ESV, so I am not about to risk any damage to that paint.
 
You're not "risking" anything with a UDM. You don't need to practice on spare body panels. Use a 6" pad and keep the speed at 4 and it's impossible to do any damage. (probably impossible to do any damage at speed 6 with a 6" pad, but since you're worried). I used to think I was detailing before I used a machine, but I wasn't.
 
If you put enough effort into deliberately damaging paint with a UDM/PC then it is possible but otherwise it is a safe and a very effective tool
 
Thanks for the advice guys. The 3M rubbing compound and an orbital buffer ended up doing the trick. Although I was hesitant to use a machine, I realized it was necessary and it ended up working out very well. The ScratchX was good, but just not quite potent enough to completely get rid of the scratch. I realize not to make a habit out of the rubbing compound and I did the entire Zaino process afterwords. Honestly, my Jeep has never looked this good. Thanks again and Merry Christmas. :)
 
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