Scratch Removal - What product/process works best for you?

mgm2003

mgm2003

New member
I've been using various SMR's this year -all with great success. After the swirls are gone, there are usually scratches to deal with. Light to moderate scratches have been a challenge to REMOVE. I'd like to hear about the products & process folks are using to address scratch removal. I'm not talking about the one's that you can run your fingernails into because I realize that some scratches are just to deep to completely level.

Fire away....
 
Are you talking by hand only or with a PC/rotary for spot work? By hand I really like Meg's ScratchX. You need to do a few passes and it requires some elbow grease, but it's worked well for me via a terry applicator.

By PC it depends on the problem I guess. I'm really liking Optimum Compound, and of course the SSR's.
 
I typically use a cyclo or PC & 4" spot pad for scratch removal.


On the PC, I agree that Optimum Compound does a GREAT job on swirls. It's probably the best swirl remover that I've ever used via PC. Scratches are another issue.
 
I haven't done this type of work for a number of years, so many of the products being talked about here are new to me. I've recently tried the PB SSR's, some 3M & 3D polishes / compounds and thought they were OK, but I got a hold of the Optimum Polish a few weeks ago and its da bomb so far for me. I liked it so much I ordered 3 more bottle of Optimum polish and two bottles of their Compound, a gallon of their wax, etc. I'm not quite as fond of their car wash as it seems to lack some lubricity compared to another product I'm playing with (although it works good), but the Optimum Polish has done a super nice job for me on removing the halo scratches / swirls with the use of a rotary followed by a PC and it leaves a very good surface that often doesn't need much more attention for what I'm doing. The only reason I'm following up with the PC is to remove the halograms I sometimes create with the rotary :redface: , but it's only taken me one pass with the PC to remove them :cool:. I'm anxious to try their compound and I hope it works just as well.
 
Foam pads create too much heat for removing scratches. They will usually burn the paint via rotary before removing the scratches.


I have had nice success while using the rotary between 1500-1700 with a wool pad and either Opt Polish/Compound, Menzerna Powergloss, or Meguiar's DACP. In the end, you want a long working time polish so that you have the time to "move" the paint.

Make sure you keep the machine moving and once it breaks down far, wipe away the residue, allow the surface to cool down, and repeat if necessary.
 
I got some fairly nasty scratches out with Optimum Polish and an LC orange Tufted pad at about 1500 on the Makita. I like the tufted pads, they seem to cut a bit more than their smooth cousins and don't heat up a lot.
 
GSRstilez said:
Foam pads create too much heat for removing scratches. They will usually burn the paint via rotary before removing the scratches.

Is this a true statement if one were to run the rotary at slower speeds, say around 1000 ?
Click to expand...
 
Not really. I only say it for removing scratches. You really have to sit there and work it (almost like a PC). With that it builds up heat real quick.
 
Wool pads should be outlawed for modern car use

I have had no trouble removing all scratches/swirls with menzerna IP or PO85RD 3.01 and then PO85RD or FP II with a 3M black foam pad or edge 2000 green and blue pads
Use yellow only when I have had to which is extremely rare
Dinitrol 7020 is a killer wet look polish that is softer than those above

SSR's are very good quality as well as Optimum polish and Sonus SFX range
have mixed and matched all of them with no problems.
 
SVR 3m black foam pad is in between white and blue on the scale .
almost , but not quite a true 80 ppi finishing pad .
 
I like wool pads for a car that I know has some oxidation that I need to remove. Foam pads don't have the ability to hold dead paint and so if you're really bringing a surface back from the dead they make it so you don't have to stop and spur out your pad every 30 seconds. That said foam is much easier to work with, you don't always have to follow up with a finishing polish if you do it right.
 
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