sanding needed?

D

drifts500

New member
hello! My car has some kind of yellow dots all over.



I clayed it, but did not have any effect...



I was mad and used finger nail and it seemed to work..but...finger nail= scratch and some did not take off even with finger nails lol...



Can I use wet sanding papers?



I am thinking about doing 2000 grit first, 2500 second, and lastly 3000 grit.



Also for polishing, I have SSR 2.5 and SSR1. Are these gonna remove sand marks for sure???..(PC 7424 XP will be used)



(Is it normal that PC 7424 XP makes a lot of vibration...like crazy?? My hands hurts lol)



This is my first detailing. Please help!

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Here is pic with lots of scratches
 
They may be rail dust or simply road contaminante. They exist on every car, but are mainly visible on white colors. Try to use a medium duty or mild clay. It usually does the job.



I don't think sanding is really necessary. SSR2.5 and SSR1 may take out the sanding 3000 grit marks, but it will take many passes using a cutting pad. You generally want to use a compound to remove sanding marks.



You may want to start with 2500 grit first if you were to wetsand out these marks.
 
^ Thanks!! So without sanding, but SSR 2.5 will work?? I can see it every where...lol which I really hate...Anyway Thanks!
 
SSR2.5 itself may clean out those marks. But if those marks come out by using finger nails, they will likely be removed using a medium duty clay bar.



If they appear throughout the car, then perhaps they're tree saps. You can also try using a bug & tar remover product. Sanding will be the last thing you want to do!!!
 
^ Thanks, I will just ask my friend to detail it for me. I decided to sell poliser and spent money on car wash supplies!! Anyway thanks!
 
They actually look like small rust spots forming. If you catch it quick enough, you can use Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and it will take them right off. I get them every now and then on my truck, and the PPCL takes them right off, and it is non abrasive.
 
That is a combination of fall out and raildust. DO NOT SAND THAT PAINT. Its not needed on O.E.M. paint. Sanding is only used as a last resort or for the anal that want a perfect finish. A heavy duty clay bar will remove that then just polish out.
 
drifts500 said:
^ Thanks, I will just ask my friend to detail it for me. I decided to sell poliser and spent money on car wash supplies!! Anyway thanks!
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Better change your sig... you can't be a good detailer and not have a polisher.:LOLOL
 
bufferbarry said:
That is a combination of fall out and raildust. DO NOT SAND THAT PAINT..
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Heh heh, hey folks, when *that guy* says "don't sand it" you'd better listen ;)



If it were my car, I'd do a decontamination with AutoInt/ValuGard's "ABC" or the FinishKare equivalent, also claying as necessary. The acidic step of the system will "burn out" the stuff that's causing the rust-blooms. No, don't worry, it's pretty mild stuff; I often wish it were stronger.



IME the decon. systems are more likely to get *all* the ferrous contamination out of the paint; with clay, serious contamination like that can be hard to get out 100% and I'd rather do it once than have to redo it if things "come back".



Since the claying didn't have any real effect, I'd move on to the decon. if only becaue it'll result in less additional marring than a really aggressive clay. If doing the correction via PC I'd be keeping that in mind (if via rotary/Flex I'd reach for the Sonus gray, but that's me, not drifts500).



Oh, and :nono regarding that "..I was mad and used finger nail and it seemed to work..but...finger nail= scratch ..." Don't get [ticked] off and do harmful stuff, it just makes things harder overall ;)
 
Accumulator said:
Heh heh, hey folks, when *that guy* says "don't sand it" you'd better listen ;)



If it were my car, I'd do a decontamination with AutoInt/ValuGard's "ABC" or the FinishKare equivalent, also claying as necessary. The acidic step of the system will "burn out" the stuff that's causing the rust-blooms. No, don't worry, it's pretty mild stuff; I often wish it were stronger.



IME the decon. systems are more likely to get *all* the ferrous contamination out of the paint; with clay, serious contamination like that can be hard to get out 100% and I'd rather do it once than have to redo it if things "come back".



Since the claying didn't have any real effect, I'd move on to the decon. if only becaue it'll result in less additional marring than a really aggressive clay. If doing the correction via PC I'd be keeping that in mind (if via rotary/Flex I'd reach for the Sonus gray, but that's me, not drifts500).



Oh, and :nono regarding that "..I was mad and used finger nail and it seemed to work..but...finger nail= scratch ..." Don't get [ticked] off and do harmful stuff, it just makes things harder overall ;)
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Hey Accumulator - Brainstorm with me on this.

Don't get me wrong, ABC is a wonderful product/process and I've used it 100's of times, but is it mandantory on vehicles getting corrected? I used to do a ton of new car warranty decons for Ford/GM/Chrylser dealers and I always liked using ABC because there wasn't a need for follow up with polishing afterwards. They just wanted the rust off the paint and didn't even want it sealed after. If you sanded with a fine grade of paper and removed the rust visually & by touch (check with magnification i.e. cellophane), do you think any reminants that *might* still be there would get removed after multiple buffing steps that followed?
 
David Fermani said:
Hey Accumulator - Brainstorm with me on this.

Don't get me wrong, ABC is a wonderful product/process and I've used it 100's of times, but is it mandantory on vehicles getting corrected?
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Nah, not in a million years :D While some make it sound like *THE* first step to any full detail, I don't think it's remotely mandatory.



I use "A"/etc. for a super-shampoo when I buy a used vehicle or do something for somebody else's that's in [crappy] shape. For pros, I can see it being a worthwhile thing in many cases.



I (only) use "B"/etc. when there's a real ferrous contamination issue, or the potential for one.



If you sanded with a fine grade of paper and removed the rust visually & by touch (check with magnification i.e. cellophane), do you think any reminants that *might* still be there would get removed after multiple buffing steps that followed?
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I bet I'm thinking the same thing you are; there's always a *CHANCE* that purely abrasive measures won't get that last bit of ferrous contamination, which will then come back to haunt you.



But there's always a chance that that the decon. won't get it all either, huh?



Guess it gets back to that "do you feel lucky?" question. I'd feel luckier with the decon.



FWIW, I've had *FAR* fewer recurrances with decon. than with clay and compounding/etc., though I still like clay + decon. when the rust-blooms are significant.



*BUT*... I haven't done all the wetsanding you have to be able to compare decon. to that, so vs. wetsanding, well...I just don't know :nixweiss
 
Additional thought: what about the chance that sanding will drive the contamination further into the paint :think:



That used to be a concern regarding other types of contamination back in the day when I was doing body/paint work.
 
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