Rotory use

ScreeminGTP

ScreeminGTP

DEEEETROIT BASKETBALL
I like to detail and the results I see when cars are done with the rotory, but the problem is using it. I have used it many times and have followed the rules with regards of overlapping strokes and not going to fast with regards of the speed (RPM). But for some reason I don't get the results that most people get when using the Rotory. I have a Dual action polisher (PC) and I use it only when the car isn't in that bad of shape. But using the Rotory for swirl removal to me seems like I put more swirls rather than removing them. What I do; I put about a nickel size amount of product and I spread it on the section that I am going to do then I turn on the machiene. The question that I have is am I going to see some swirls on the vehicle after I lets say use a DACP and then after using a finish pad with a polish the swirls should dissaper or the majority and if not should I go more agressive? Under fake light it looks good, but under the sun it looks like a hologram. What could I be doing wrong. I am following the directions that I have read and have applied what the veterans do, but it doesn't seem to apply to me. Just was wondering if I could get some input on a process or just some different ways of using the rotory. Thanks for taking the time.
 
I'm no expert.

But I am curious.

If your objective is to achieve the removal of swirl marks which, by definition, are minor defects in the finish that can't be discerned with a fingernail ...

... then why don't you use the Porter-Cable? It's much safer than a rotary for this indication, won't burn your paint, and has been used by many dozens of DC visitors for swirl removal?

Maybe you're trying to drive in a thumb tack with a sledge hammer, here.
 
Yea but with what I have learned if you can catch your finger nail in a scratch then when do you know if it requiers a rotory or if it requiers repainting. I am talking about very bad swirls that a porter cable cannot handle.
 
Sounds to me like you are not using enough produst, essentially buffing dry. A nickle sized amount on a dry pad is not enough IMO. Try to lay a bead of product on the surface that you are going to buff and prime the pad with a little QD. What type of pad are you using?
 
I agree with EBP civics ...
Go to meguiars website and view their slide show or video about buffing.
If you try to buff with too little product you have lost the lubrication that the product provides.
So the pad is actually causing the swirls.
To prove this out take a clean cotton towel without anything on it and rub on the paint ... you will create lines (or swirls)

With a rotary I usually prime the pad by applying product to it in an X shape.
Then as I need more product I apply a 6" line to the paint and pick it up with the rotary turned on.
DACP should actually be buffed until almost dry
Other products such as #82 SFP should be wet when you finish buffing. One thing that is helpful in monitoring SFP is it actually turns from a cream color to almost clear as the abrasives break down.
Sorry this is so long!
 
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