Rotory Hop

ScreeminGTP

ScreeminGTP

DEEEETROIT BASKETBALL
I have done a search and haven't found anything on this subject. I was messing around with some products, one side I was applying DACP with my PC and the other side I was using a rotory. By the way DACP is a pretty good product. Anyway when I was using the rotory I kept getting rotory hop. Method of application: I primed the pad by spraying some clay lubricant and then putting an X pattern of product on the pad, started off slow and worked the product in. As I was working in the product the pad seemed like it was grabbing and started to hop. I think I am either not working it in enough or I am working it too much. When using the rotory when do you know that enough is enough? Some people tell me that when you can barley see the product you should stop. I followed that rule and the pad kept hopping. I am not getting a smooth flow with the rotory that I should.
 
What pads are you using?

Using a smaller pad will sometimes help the hop.

Also, be careful that you are not over extending yoiurself with the buffer. Try to stay over the area that you are working as opposed to extending your arms to reach the area. Does that make sense at all?

Every product breaks down at a different rate depending on its' formulation as well as buffing speed/material.

I like to waork DACP until it is almost gone, then remove.
 
You know I tried to work DACP until it was gone but for some reason it left behind a residue that was hard to wipe off. I used some clay lube and a Microfiber towel to wipe it off. I understand the 2x2 rule when doing a panel. I am using pads I buy from a local guy around here. They almost resemble the Edge pads but only one side can be used. Now when I read here I also understand that I need to keep the pad flat as possible. But I noticed that if I tilt the pad on an angle a little I get much less if no rotary hop as I make my passes. I still overlap my passes by 50% but if I do it flat it hops and if I do it tilted it doesn't hop much at all. What is your take on this?
 
I had the same problem using DACP with the green edge pad. some suggestions i got from DC members was maybe the DACP was not abrasive enough for the paint condition i was working with. i tried a more abrasive product and got the same thing.(rotoary hop) then i tried a different pad it was from a local guy and it was curved instead of flat like the edge pad so even though the pad was the same size there was less pad touching the surface. I had no problem with this pad and DACP. so the tip from EBPcivicsi about a smaller pad helping could solve your problem.

you are right,DACP is a fine product but i recently tried SSR1 and it seemed much easier to work with. i can't wait to try the other SSR's.
 
Regarding rotary hop,
This won't be any help but... I can remember when I was new with a rotary, this happened all the time. I've never changed my buffing/polishing system or products from when I started and it hasn't happened to me in a long time. It's all in technique, some more practice and it'l stop happening to you too.
 
I just got a lesson today on the rotary, one of the reason for hop is your out of product. Hop ocurs when the dry form pad grabs against the paint. Meaning its time to reapply product.
 
Try slowing down... The buffer can also "hop" if all of the pad is on a flat surface, the buffer needs to be tipped up, ever so slightly so you're only working with one section of the pad. I've also found that when the buffer starts to "hop" sometimes the pad also is in need of some cleaning of the excess product. On foam pads, I either use a tooth brush of a terry towel wrapped around my finger with the buffer spinnin'--be carefull with the latter for if the dangly part of the towel gets caught, it Hurts!
 
bozack23 said:
you are right,DACP is a fine product but i recently tried SSR1 and it seemed much easier to work with. i can't wait to try the other SSR's.
Click to expand...

You won't be dissapointed, IMO.

I bought 2 litres of DACP, so I will be using it quite a bit, but I find that it is really 'dusty'. I have had good luck following DACP with SSR1.

DACP is not as aggressive as SSR3, I read somewhere that it is like SSR2.5.

When I run out of my current supply of DACP, I am going to take a good look at SSR2 and SSR2.5.

Did I mention that I am in love with SSR1? Pink color and all. (LOL)
 
i was having the same problem .. i was advised to keep a spray bottle of water handy .. when it starts gumming up i give the panel or the pad a mist of water and then the rotary & the water clear up the gumming up or the grabbing .. i clean the pad pretty frequently.. the water works real good for me. i was ready to give up on the rotary.. my latest job i used it on turned out great .. give it a try
 
Screemin, like Dr. detail said you want a slight angle when using a rotary. They had a good post on this a while ago, but it got lost in the crises of 04'. I tilt my rotary some when using and get little to no hop.
 
It's amazing about that rotary because I used it on the weekend that passed and took some advise on using a smaller pad and I had the same problem. What's funny about using the rotary is when you apply product and use the rotary the product dissapates very quickly. Maybe I am not putting enough product in but I don't want to put too much. I got half of my car done so far but I used only the PC with the Maroon pad and DACP then follow with Wizards finish cut with a polishing pad, don't know what kind of finishing topper I am going to apply but I am up for sugesstions; by the way the car is black. Shame on me but I didn't even wash my car during the winter months. When I am done I will have pictures of my work when I am done. I hope I am worthy.
 
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