Rotary Usage

N

Nickshades

New member
I recently detailed a friends Dodge truck (black of course) and there was a good amount of streak like scratches that you can see in the paint, whether it be from drying with a cotton towel or whatever. After washing and claying, my process was as follows:



1. PC rotary with yellow pad (from classic motoring accessories) with Menzerna IP



2. cyclo with green pads using Menzerna FP



3. cyclo with green pads using 3M PI-3 glaze



4. cyclo with white pads using AIO



5. cyclo with white pads using FMJ



(i'm sorry I don't have before and after pictures)



the problem or question that i have for the professionals or enthusiasts out there is that after using the IP, I noticed that I was putting swirls or what looked like a haziness on the paint. This was the reason why I switched to the cyclo for the FP rather than using the rotary with a white pad. Is there something i'm doing wrong with the rotary considering i'm trying to keep it on a slight angle, not apply any force on the machine, and mist the pad with water prior to putting it on the paint, and the rpms were about 1,000 - 1,500.



the second problem was that after this whole process, i could still see some scratches here and there. I really wish i had a camera to take pictures of the problem. (if i can get some shots, I will post them) the scratches didn't look that bad so I didn't compound, but maybe I should of. I don't know.



Anybody who can help is greatly appreciated..



Thanks,

Nick
 
I haven't used any prior rotary, but it was recommended by the person at classic motoring accessories. It's alright i guess. There was a thread posted a while ago that I started i think regarding the different rotary polishers. try a search to find it, but the machine works alright. Its hard to give you a rating considering i haven't used the others, but try to find that thread.



Nick
 
Nickshades- I haven't tried the IP so I really can't comment, but I wonder if you broke it down completely. Sometimes you can be so (sensibly) cautious with a rotary that you don't work the product enough (done that!). Also, the yellow CMA/Lake cutting pads are pretty aggressive when driven by a rotary. I'm not surprised you got some micro (or not-so-micro) marring from that combo.



But generally your progression sounds OK to me. I switch to the Cylco as soon as I feel I can.



I often have some micromarring after my most aggressive step. As long as you were able to clear it up with the Cyclo/green pads/FP I'd say no problem (that combo I *have* used and it's pretty mild).



And I think you were smart to quit when you did. No point in second-guessing whether you should've kept working more or handled more aggressively. I'd rather have some marring than risk taking off too much clear and it sounds like your gut feeling was that you were doing as much as you should. With more experience you might find yourself getting more aggressive, but it's easy to go too far in search of perfection that won't matter to most people anyhow (especially after the first few washes let alone the rigors of normal use).



[Edit:] Oh, if the 3M Glaze you used was PI-III MG (05937), I'd use it *before* the FP, it's more aggressive IMO.
 
I might have to try that next time Accumulator....using the glaze prior to the FP. How can u tell if you've worked in the product enough. Some of the deep scratches that you can barely feel with your nail didn't come out and i'm thinking maybe because that the IP isn't that aggresive. Is there a compound that you or anyone else recommends. My friend gets the car detailed once a year, but follows up with washing every few weeks. All I can say is to detail the car more often. Other than that, any recommendations on the more aggresive products to use.



Thanks for all of your help,

Nick
 
Nickshades said:
I haven't used any prior rotary, but it was recommended by the person at classic motoring accessories. It's alright i guess. There was a thread posted a while ago that I started i think regarding the different rotary polishers. try a search to find it, but the machine works alright. Its hard to give you a rating considering i haven't used the others, but try to find that thread.



Nick
Click to expand...



I guess they don't really agree on things at CMA. Today I was told by a person from CMA not to get the PC rotary.



I am glad that you like it.
 
Nickshades said:
I might have to try that next time Accumulator....using the glaze prior to the FP. How can u tell if you've worked in the product enough. Some of the deep scratches that you can barely feel with your nail didn't come out and i'm thinking maybe because that the IP isn't that aggresive. Is there a compound that you or anyone else recommends.
Click to expand...



Heh heh, I'm just no help at all with most "how long to work the product questions" :o It usually just takes experience, you get a "feel" for it. I don't work many products dry, though. The MG breaks down pretty easily, so as long as you go until it's almost dry you should be OK.



On the deeper scratches, I'd still leave 'em go. By the time you can really feel them with your nail they're too deep to remove on a "driver" (just IMO of course, but I'm pretty leery of clearcoat failure). I've tried some coarse products, the latest being 3M PI-III Extra Cut (I forget the pn) but no matter how I work it it leaves way too much marring for my taste. If I can't get something out with 1Z Ultra/Extra and a cutting pad I just live with it. And even with the Ultra, I'm very cautious. It's just *so* easy and tempting to think "one more pass.." and end up at the paint shop.



One of my "Autopian Heresies" is that I generally don't believe in thinning the paint enough to obtain/maintain a perfect finish, especially on cars that are gonna get marred again anyway. Yeah, I try to keep the S8 perfect, but then I spend four hours on a normal wash just to ensure that I don't mar it and it's a very rare occasion when anybody touches anything on it exept for its doorhandles. For real cars owned by real people, IMO you're better off with thick but imperfect paint. The last time I did my wife's A8 I didn't even get out the rotary. Just used the Cyclo with #80. She said she doesn't mind the marring that's left so that's good enough for me (and it's certainly not like it looks bad, under flourescents it looks nearly perfect).
 
Accumulator said:
(and it's certainly not like it looks bad, under flourescents it looks nearly perfect).
Click to expand...



:o I complain about mine when it looks good under those conditions but not 100% under the halogens :o
 
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