Rotary to PC to burnishing?

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backwoods_lex

New member
Hi guys. I'm curious if anyone has experience or input on compounding with a rotary, switching to a PC to ensure hologram removal, and then switching back to the rotary and a finishing pad and an ultrafine polish to burnish the paint? Specifically, I'm looking for input as I've read before how rotaries polish out paint more evenly than a PC and with glossier results.



I'm new to the rotary and don't feel comfortable enough that I won't leave holograms on a customer's car.
 
You would have a hard time telling the difference between a panel finish polished with a rotary Vs. one finish polished with a PC.



Following a rotary correction step with a PC step to remove holograms is all you need to do.



Switching back to a rotary for another polishing step, provided you did both the first rotary step and second PC step to their full potential, is IMO a waste of time.
 
MichaelM said:
You would have a hard time telling the difference between a panel finish polished with a rotary Vs. one finish polished with a PC.
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I disagree. When used properly, there is a very noticeable difference. Why do you think all of the guys doing the most impressive work are all finishing with rotaries? Because it gives the best possible finish. Now when the person is new to using a rotary, the difference will most likely be minimal to none.
 
Personally, I would do the whole thing with a rotary. As long as you have a middle step with the rotary, between compounding and finishing with a soft pad and final polish, there shouldn't be holograms.



I suppose there are some exceptions, like extremely soft paint. I wouldn't go from compounding with something like HTEC or 3M EC and wool to UF/blue foam and expect perfect results.
 
shine said:
A rotary has the ability to break down and work abrasives much more evenly than a dual-action polisher.
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How? The motion of the pad shouldn't have any effect on how a polish breaks down. It may take longer with a DA, but it will still break down.



Do you mean to say that you will get more out of a polishing combo of say Menz FPII and a finishing pad with a rotary then you will with something like the Flex or Makita BO6040? Can you not break down a polish like that with one of those machines?
 
Assuming using the Menz IP and orange pad combo, when used with a rotary you will definately get more cut as compare to either the Flex or Makita B06040. So it actually shows there is a difference between a rotary and DA (or even a forced rotation DA).



blackwoods - burnishing is something you need to keep practising until you get the hang of it, even if you remove the hologram with the PC but poor handling with the rotary during burnishing, it will put back in the hologram.
 
shine said:
Personally, I would do the whole thing with a rotary. As long as you have a middle step with the rotary, between compounding and finishing with a soft pad and final polish, there shouldn't be holograms.



I suppose there are some exceptions, like extremely soft paint. I wouldn't go from compounding with something like HTEC or 3M EC and wool to UF/blue foam and expect perfect results.
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Agreed.



Side note: You know they did away with 3M EC...the new "replacement" flat out SUX!
 
I think it's easier to finish with a PC and a finishing polish. Most guys who finish with rotaries are using oily finishing polishes to avoid hollograms.
 
MichaelM said:
How? The motion of the pad shouldn't have any effect on how a polish breaks down. It may take longer with a DA, but it will still break down.



Do you mean to say that you will get more out of a polishing combo of say Menz FPII and a finishing pad with a rotary then you will with something like the Flex or Makita BO6040? Can you not break down a polish like that with one of those machines?
Click to expand...



The direct planning rotary offers more potenital to breakdown the abrasive in an even manner vs. the sanding motion of the PC. For the average guy, who doesn't have the necessarry experience and skill with a rotary, they will probably see betters results with PC.
 
I do my burnishing with the Cyclo, and I can't see *any* downside compared to using my rotaries.



Only difference is the absence of holograms'; there's *zero* diminishing of gloss or any other problem. Hey, maybe it's just the paint I work on and/or the products I use, or maybe it's some difference between the Cyclo and the PC :nixweiss
 
I have found with the Flex, I can get as much gloss as I can with the rotary when finishing. Maybe it's lack of skill with a rotary on my part (although I feel I am pretty good with the rotary), but that's just what I see.
 
weekendwarrior- That's good news for me as I can't reach all the tight spots on my Jag with the Cyclo; I'd rather use the Flex 3401 than the PC anyhow.
 
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