rotarty at 1000 rpm, as safe as da

quamen

New member
I was reading that a rotary operated at 1000 rpm is as safe as a dual action polisher? Would this mean taping can be avoided, and does anyone actually buy this?
 
You still need to be cautious and tape areas down, but you will less likely burn paint unless u sit on one spot or on edges. Personally, always practice first before you use it on a decent car.
 
I've been practicing with my rotary and even at 1000 rpm it leaves the surface warm enough that I wouldn't like the idea of going over areas that should be taped without doing so. I don't know if it's as safe as using a DA but it definately keeps things safe. My impression so far with the rotary is that it isn't as scary as it seems in that if you are cautious and start at a low level of aggressiveness things will be fine. Where I think it takes a lot of skill is understanding the limits to correct the paint of a vehicle.
 
Yhea, wouldn't say it's as safe as a DA but it's definately safer than running it faster.



Just remember don't let it sit in one spot and you'll be fine.
 
You're going to notice many many differences with a rotary. It will tell you want it likes, what it doesn't like, and what it would like to do. You do have to be on top of it--it's not going to just glides across like a DA. Don't be afraid of it. There's just a lot more things you need to deal with when using one. There's a lot more "feedback"
 
I have a question: If you're not supposed to use polishes, waxes etc on a hot car etc etc, why would does using a rotary do such a good job when it warms the paint so much?
 
alot of polishes need heat to breakdown the abrasives in the polish, Rotarys generate more of this heat, and faster than a PC, this removes more serious defects quicker, and most of the time better than a PC would. Atleast thats my take on it.
 
“I have a question: If you're not supposed to use polishes, waxes etc on a hot car etc, why would using a rotary do such a good job when it warms the paint so much?�



A: The rotary polisher heats the polish under the pad as opposed the whole vehicle, localized heat softens the paint and helps the polish do its job more efficiently.



The speed I use most often on a rotary is 1,000RPM as it takes care of MOST problems that I encounter, + I'm a kitty (spelling)a pro bodyshop may get compleatly different problems to deal with and therefore require more speed
 
Duckman said:
I have a question: If you're not supposed to use polishes, waxes etc on a hot car etc etc, why would does using a rotary do such a good job when it warms the paint so much?



The rotary does create more friction, which does make more heat. The increased friction of the pad will help the polishes break down faster and help them remove imperfections faster.



You still don't want to get the paint too hot though as it can push the scratches deeper.
 
This whole "rotary heat" issue is one of the reasons why there are "rotary only" products that don't work too well by PC- they *need* the heat to break down properly.



When using products that work well by hand/PC, such as 1Z polishes, you have to use a different approach, rotary-application-wise. e.g., 1Z stuff needs to be worked at a *low* speed (like 800 rpm) so the abrasives don't break down too fast. Very different from, say, certain Meg's and 3M rotary polishes.



Even at low speeds, the rotary is doing something different from what the DA does, so you should still tape any fragile areas. But other than that, and the whole "struggle against the machine" thing (which you'll quickly get over), yeah, low-speed rotary work is pretty safe. Just use appropriate products, not stuff that's designed for higher speeds.



Heh heh, but then someday you'll crank it up to 2K and there won't be much looking back ;)
 
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