Roof just painted and can't wax-need alternative

M

MattB

New member
My car was vandalized a few months back and as a result the roof had to be repainted. The guys at the body shop told me to not wax the car for 90 days (got it back in late May). Is there a product I could use to make my car bright and shiny that won't affect the new finish?
 
I've heard of people using 3M Imperial Hand Glaze.



If you do a search, you'll see this has been mentioned.
 
I did a search and I didn't really find much useful, but then again I don't know very much about auto detailing so I probably overlooked it...
 
Any of the "pure polishes" (Meguiar's terminology) like #7, IHG, Mother's Sealer and Glaze, will work to keep the paint shiny and clean, without sealing it. But you have to remember that there is no UV protection during that time, so minimizing driving it would be a good idea, during that period.
 
I've been keeping it out of direct sun as much as possible, even though when I asked about it the body shop said it wouldn't be an issue. OT, but why can't I wax new paint?
 
Do not use Zaino, or any sealer or wax for that matter. Fresh paint needs time to cure, which is when certain chemicals in the paint evaporate and the paint fully hardens. If you seal the paint, it cant cure, and it will never fully harden or bond. Abrasives don't matter, shops buff paint right out of the booth. If you see some swirls, you can use a product like SMR or DACP to clean them up, but until those 90 days are up just QD the heck out of it.
 
I've had the same problem lots of times. I've been messing with detailing for over 40 years. I've made lots of trips to the body shop too. The new paint needs to cure. It shouldn't be sealed with a wax or a sealant. It will be OK to use Mequiar's # 7. If your car was painted in May, for sure it would be OK to use #7 now. I usually wait six months before "sealing" freshly painted areas.



Tom :cool:
 
I also agree with Jason and BW. Most of the solvents evaporate in the first few hours anyway. On fresh finishes i use Wizards Shine master sealant glaze, it says right on the bottle it can be used on freshly painted finishes.
 
Black Bird SC said:
Do not use Zaino, or any sealer or wax for that matter. Fresh paint needs time to cure, which is when certain chemicals in the paint evaporate and the paint fully hardens. If you seal the paint, it cant cure, and it will never fully harden or bond. Abrasives don't matter, shops buff paint right out of the booth. If you see some swirls, you can use a product like SMR or DACP to clean them up, but until those 90 days are up just QD the heck out of it.
Click to expand...



What's QD? The "quick detail" mist you can get at Auto Zone like the Meguiar's stuff?
 
Yes, QD is a quick detailer such as Meguiar's Quick Detailer or Megruiar's Final Inspection. Other ones you can find locally are made by Eagle One and Mothers to name a few. And Andre brought up a good point about the Wizards product. It is a breathable sealer specifically made for fresh paint. Only downside is it doesn't last that long. And as far as Zaino is concerned, maybe Sal formulated it to be breathable? I don't know.
 
It's been known to Autopia for some time, that paint does not "breathe." Neither does it need to be feeded with coconut oils. Once the clear is on, it's done.



Also, most OTC QD's including Meguiar's QuikDetailer contain silicones - a big no, no when repainting.
 
JasonC8301 said:
I believe Zaino should be ok, along with BW. Its been mentioned that Mr. Zaino himself was a car painter for a period of time. I think he developed Zaino to protect his work (I've seen a piece of his work, sweeeeeet) so I would go along with BW and say Zaino could be applied to paint after a week out of the shop.



Here is the thread....



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11142
Click to expand...



And it says in this thread not to let the water "spot"....but that's almost inevitable when it rains....the guy at the bodyshop said it would be fine through any kind of rain/machine car wash/anything. Who's right?



Also, since Zaino has no silicone or any stuff like that, which one of their product should I use? :confused:
 
The body shop I go to has a lifetime guarantee on their paint jobs. I'd not want to go against what they and the paint company (PPG) suggest in their written guarantee. One suggestion is to not wax the finish for 90 days. Why not wait the 90 days and then polish and wax the hell out of it.



Tom
 
Paint does not "breathe," nor did I say it did, but there are such things as "breathable" sealers, which allow paints to cure. Once the clear is on, it's not done. The paint is extremely soft for the first week or so, and normally its about a month before it is full hardened. As an example, I just had the body shop that I work at paint an aftermarket hood for me. We wetsanded and buffed the majority of it the day after it was painted, but the painter said he wanted to wait a few weeks before buffing around the edges and the scoops because he was afraid of burning the paint since it was still so soft. In those two weeks, I have noticed a definite increase in the hardness of the paint. While most of the curing is done while it dries, it isn't completely cured. This is why paint manufactures have us wait to wax. They designed the paint, they know their stuff.
 
This is a little OT but similar to the repaint. I repainted some metal fixtures (like the face plate on a light switch and outlets) I sanded with 400 grit and sprayed down some color let it sit for a few minutes, added another coat of color. I then cleared coated it. I let it sit for a few hours. It was definately soft. I could put an imprint of my finger on it.



I waited a few days and it is much harder. The paint on cars work similarly I guess. A period is needed for the paint to harden, like Black Bird SC said.



EDIT: Here is a picture of the painted trim I was talking about



12trim.jpg




In August I am going to remove them, sand them down. Paint them again with baking them between each coat and do some sanding work on them.



This is of course after I do the Zaino/Klasse test. Hopefully in 2-3 weeks I'll get the initital application done and follow up.



EDIT: I can't stand dial up on a network, my bro is trying to stream videos and it takes a full 4 minutes to load each page on Autopia....I know I timed it.
 
Okay, this is what I know to be correct, and I'm 95% sure of it.... I hope. :p



It is okay to use detailing spray (QD). Go nuts.



It is okay to use most glazes and Zaino.



It is okay to wash the car.



I didn't read it, but I imagine the "water spotting" thing is just to avoid damage to the paint or water spot deposits - just like normal really.



I know that Z being safe on fresh paint is what Sal says, but I don't think he'd lie about something as major as this. I wonder if all pure, non-carnauba blended sealants are actually safe for fresh paint... :confused: Does anyone know if Klasse or BF or PUPP are safe too? :nixweiss



PS: As I understand it, fresh aftermarket paints do have to cure, but after curing the "breathing" crap is nonsense. There is a certain "window" in paint application between the time when it is soft and fresh, and when it has hardened I believe. There are times when you can do certain things to the paint, and other times when you have to wait before doing them.



My 2, 3, 4?... cents.
 
tguil said:
The body shop I go to has a lifetime guarantee on their paint jobs. I'd not want to go against what they and the paint company (PPG) suggest in their written guarantee. One suggestion is to not wax the finish for 90 days. Why not wait the 90 days and then polish and wax the hell out of it.



Tom
Click to expand...



Yeah, that's probably what I'll do. I was just wondering what I could do in the mean time to make my car shinier.
 
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