Road Salt Remover / Neutralizer ?

TroyScherer

TroyScherer

Ummm.... Ya.....
I have been around for quite awhile and one thing that I keep looking for and think possibly is missing in my “Winter Car Care” cleaning selection is a Road Salt Remover / Neutralizer.


Being in Ohio and dealing with road salt issues every winter has me looking for an option for something to add to my cleaning routine to make the job safer and better. I don`t see myself moving south anytime soon due to work and family so coming up with a solution would be great.


I have read about distilled white vinegar mixes that could be sprayed on and used to help remove salt. I have also heard of an Optimum ONR/MDR mix that would possibly do something similar. (1oz ONR / 2-4oz MDR / 1 Gal Water).


Does anyone have a homemade mixture or concentrated solution that they use with good success?
 
I have a car wash located by my house I use to get rid of the heavy stuff, then I bring it home and I have used Poorboys S&W, and am now using Adams version and it works great.
 
ernman said:
I have a car wash located by my house I use to get rid of the heavy stuff, then I bring it home and I have used Poorboys S&W, and am now using Adams version and it works great.
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I’m not a big fan of using the pay and spray car wash. In the winter it’s far enough away that everything freezes on the way home after use and I dislike having to pay $2+ per use just to try and spray things down.
 
TroyScherer said:
I’m not a big fan of using the pay and spray car wash. In the winter it’s far enough away that everything freezes on the way home after use and I dislike having to pay $2+ per use just to try and spray things down.
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Luckily it’s only a half mile from my house and the garage is heated so if it does freeze on the way home it doesn’t last long.
 
I just saw an ad on Face Book from 303 products, they have a salt neutralizer boat wash additive. I don`t see why it couldn`t be used on cars
 
MisterSnoop said:
AMMO has a new anti-salt version of FROTHe. At $38 for the 16 oz bottle, it`s maybe $2-2.50 per wash.
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Hey, I was looking at a related product, Ammo Boost Anti-Salt, and in the CA-required disclosure, one of the ingredients is sodium chloride. In other words, salt. It says it`s a viscosity modifier.

PS I was going to mention long-ago discussions here (I think it was here) about statements made by Optimum regarding salt being used to thicken dish detergents and car soaps, but I think that is just going to muddle things in this thread.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Hey, I was looking at a related product, Ammo Boost Anti-Salt, and in the CA-required disclosure, one of the ingredients is sodium chloride. In other words, salt. It says it`s a viscosity modifier.

PS I was going to mention long-ago discussions here (I think it was here) about statements made by Optimum regarding salt being used to thicken dish detergents and car soaps, but I think that is just going to muddle things in this thread.
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Will have to file that under things that make you go huh? along with Adams scented odor neutralizer :)
 
Here`s the thread discussion on Whips Salt Remover from November of 2018 started by Older ,but I think it, too, is a marine-based (AKA boating) product.
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...158-whip-wax-salt-remover.html?highlight=salt
(Check out Ron Ketcham`s advise about a ValuGaurd product, VG-502 ProGard)

I was with the understanding that Bilt-Hamber Pre-Wash Sno-Foam (NOT the waterless foam) was suppose to have some salt-neutralizing chemicals in it, but I may be wrong.
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...329-bilt-hamber-auto-foam.html?highlight=salt
 
I`ve spent a considerable amount of time (and money) on anti-salt products. I`ve tried everything mentioned here as well as some additional boat products, and a few other products.

The best I tried was the Whips Wax - but I cannot source it anymore. In its stead I`ve been using "Salts Gone" which seems to work similarly although its not as "soapy" so it doesn`t stay on the panel or part as long before running off. But it definitely chelates the salt - in fact I`ve been using it this week on a car I just bought and drove home from Chicago to Boston and got stuck in a snowstorm.

As far as wash products - of the soaps and additives I`ve tried - Valugard Progard is the best. You do need to buy it in a 5 gallon pail though. I`m sure Boost wash additive is doing something, but I`ve been through three bottles of it and it seems very weak relative to the other products I`ve tried.

I plow with a mid-2000s Chevy Truck - great trucks mechanically but they will dissolve before your eyes if you let salt stay on them - so I`ve been super interested in finding the best solution.

For now - my products of choice are Salts Gone pre spray and then foam wash with Valugard Progard.
 
Larry A said:
What I would like to know is how to get salt out of carpets.
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Larry A.:
Here`s my thread on the manual (by hand) method I use to clean salt-encrusted carpet floor mats and foot-well carpets:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...crusted-carpet-floor-mats.html?highlight=salt

One product I would suggest is Sprayway Salt Off for this very carpet cleaning task. I`ve used it, but I find it is no better than that the hot water-white vinegar solution at cleaning off salt. The BIG advantage is NO lingering vinegar smell embedded in the carpet! The disadvantage is the cost per application. The can`s plastic cap has a built-in brush of stiff plastic fingers that work pretty well at breaking up MINOR encrusted salt. It`s better than a wire brush that seem to catch carpet fibers or an old tooth brush which may not be stiff enough. Kudos to Sprayway for that addition!!
Sprayway Salt Off
 
Noting that I only do our vehicles, but also that I`m in Ohio and drive older vehicles year-round (including the OBS Tahoe and the `93 Audi, which the original owner *only* used in the winter), without rust issues (exception: the MPV that rusted out where they all do, not salt-related) just FWIW:

I keep hearing how "they use Magnesium Chloride these days, and it won`t wash off!", but no problems like that yet. The roadsalt simply washes off. Period. No problem. Maybe I`ve just been lucky (for over 45 years ;) ), but so far, so good. I even do the undercarriages with a regular shampoo mix at my foamgun-use dilution of ~7oz. shampoo + enough water to make a gallon.

(Note that is is where Ketch undoubtedly rolls his eyes and thinks I oughta use the ValuGard stuff...and I can`t argue with that!)

For fabrics and leathers, yeah...vinegar if you don`t mind the smell, something like the SprayWay if that`s a problem. Using *hot* water on the mats helps a lot.
 
Accumulator:
I assume that "OBS Tahoe" means Old Body Style Tahoe. Yes, I has to Google that acronym.

WHICH reminds me and now off topic: Has anyone tried to update the "Decoder Ring" of Autopia Forum acronym list recently?
There has got to be a slew of new additions. (Sounds like a job for you, Captain Obvious, especially since you made the wish to keep this forum going! Just sayin`....)
 
Lonnie said:
Accumulator:
I assume that "OBS Tahoe" means Old Body Style Tahoe. Yes, I has to Google that acronym...
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Right you are :D It`s registered as a 2000, but for practical purposes it`s a `96-99, the GMT400 series with all the, uhm...deficiencies that drive some people nuts. My other SUVs were indeed much better, but I just didn`t like `em nearly as well, so guess which ones I sold and which one I kept ;)

It even has the rear "barn doors" that always rust out, especially on the left side...though I caught it early enough on mine for the DIY repair "that never lasts" (scare-quotes intentional ;) ) to work just fine (over a decade since I did it, yeah..OK OK..the second time....and no recurrence).

I never even dealt with all the to-the-metal paint chips, lots of exposed e-coat, but no problems from that stuff either. Must be decent steel or something...
 
As a vehicle ages, the "seams" which have a coating of e-coat during assembly, before painting, was "inside all cavaties"Live in the rust belt states or such and in 3 years or more, the perforation t, covering over "spot welds, hem flanges" etc and these will develop very small cracks, exposing bare metal, The salt/mag cloride/brine will enter and over a short time, when humidity is over 35%, during all seasons, will start corroding, The corrosion then "crawls" under the paint film, eating away the metal, The resulting rusting from the inside as it eats its way to the outside panels is termed "perforation", All the washing, LSP`s, etc will not protect from this serious damage Stop such requires thar rhes inside cavaties must not be exposed to oxygen, moisture or corrosive materials,The product to keeps this from happening is a micro wax based product that must be fogged into ALL inner panels, Many believe their vehicle`s warranty covers this, however when reading the warranty they will observe the corrosion warranty is for "manufacturung defects" and NOT envioromental corrosion ! After market rust proofing that requires yearly or such inspection and reapplication are not effective, which is why they are not approved or meet SAE/ASTM/Military, specifications, Just a bit of real information for you,

 
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