How "into it" do you want to go? All the way or just enough to get by?
Autozone has 1/2" drive, 24" long breaker bars for about $16. Get yourself a proper size 1/2" drive socket. ( Perfect to have, especially if your a woman, for emergency flat repairs.) Get an ordinary socket or impact if you don't care about marring your lugs, and one "deep enough". Put a large O-ring in it if you need a spacer to half way protect the lugs "face". Search the web for [Torque Stick or lug sockets] or something like that. Several makes of nice sets, some places even sell singles and short sets, of sleeved lug sockets at reasonable prices but the insides aren't as non damaging as Protecs. Protec makes some HIGH dollar non-marring sockets that are very hi-tech nice, nice, nice. $65 for two sets. How valuable or perfect are your lugs? Ordinary socket for most people is fine. The long breaker bar makes things a piece of cake. I always carry it in the trunk with my torque wrench and the 200 ft.lb. impact wrench rated Protech socket just in case I have to get a tire shop to help me out when I travel, etc. One under $20 "spinners" have coated insides to help prevent marring (PepBboys). I don't like spinners but there isn't anything wrong with them except the never fit good in the trunk or in the truck. Breaker bars 18-24" do.
If you don't have a 1/2" drive torque wrench, get one. Your going to seal your wheels at least twice a year or more so go ahead. It's only money. It will come in handy many times in the future if you do any other car stuff yourself. Change oil, lube etc. especially on the lower cars. I know, the Jeep is tall. Some torque wrenches are for accurate low torques and some for very high. Most people get a 10- 120 or 150 (?) or so. Not great for low torques on critical fasteners but perfect for lugs around the 75-85 ft. lbs range. Inexpensive ones for lugs are OK. A couple of "dial" styles to choose from. Tighten in criss-cross pattern and set 10 or so lower then spec, go around, re-set to spec and final tighten. Check again about 100 miles later. Don't guess, don't use oil on the threads and don't over torque. I think it's flat out foolish not to use a torque wrench ASAP if you do it without one. Loosen and re-torque just to make sure you didn't King-Kong them on too tight if you don't have one and have to go somewhere to get torqed. Not usually a problem with those tiny "lug wrenches" most car kits have.
The best way to do this is use a floor jack and 2 floor stands. Sam's has a NICE 3-Ton floor jack for under $60 and jack stands are $8-$20 depending on how beefy and tall you need or want. If you don't have a floor jack and the correct jack stands for your vehicle, use your spare tire as a "stand" if you rotate, your Jeep's jack, etc. and follow your owner's manual instructions for tire changes/rotation. But, if you go all out and spend the big bucks AND if you have never used a floor jack and stands before, get someone experienced to show you all the ins and outs and safety proceedures. Not a big deal. Rotation and even balancing is a good idea, but logistics to go balance one or two at a time gets to be a hastle if you know what I mean, but well worth it to me.
Maybe I missed something here and someone else can correct anything I goofed on. (Not going to proof read this as I have a hot date.)This is way more then you probably wanted to or needed to know but when I read "ahh, you don't need a torque wrench....." I just had to chime in. That is "true" but really very bad advice to offer in an "awe-shucks" kind of way because of the potential damage to your Jeep (or worse) like having a big problem changing a flat sometime out in the middle of nowhere 4x4 land. At least someone else advised you to torque ASAP and even your manual will say that. Some people dodge the silver bullet, some don't.
Good luck and happy trails.
) so I'll do one side first then the other. Rotation is a good idea, so is washing the underbody since you already have the car up anyway.