Removing overspray...

I

imported_pugoman

New member
I've just been over to my parents house. Whilst there, I took a look at my dads car and noticed/felt that he has some overspray on his roof.



He recently had one of his panels resprayed by a friend, who done a pretty good job, but some overspray has managed to cover the roof. You can't actually see it, only feel it.



I have a funny feeling that it's clearcoat overspray not base coat. I had some detailing bits and bobs with me at the time and tried claying it, but this didn't help. So what would be my next course of action?



I have plenty of detailing products (too many to list!) and also own a PC.



Any suggestions?
 
pugoman said:
I've just been over to my parents house. Whilst there, I took a look at my dads car and noticed/felt that he has some overspray on his roof.



He recently had one of his panels resprayed by a friend, who done a pretty good job, but some overspray has managed to cover the roof. You can't actually see it, only feel it.



I have a funny feeling that it's clearcoat overspray not base coat. I had some detailing bits and bobs with me at the time and tried claying it, but this didn't help. So what would be my next course of action?



I have plenty of detailing products (too many to list!) and also own a PC.



Any suggestions?
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If it's clear coat overspray then you will probably have to use a more agressive clay. It comes in fine, medium and heavy. That's about the only thing that will remove it unless you want to try tackling wet sanding, which can be pretty tricky.:D
 
pugoman said:
So do we think Megs burgundy clay will do the trick?
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Not familiar with the burgandy clay bar from Meguiars, but I know most clay bars, such as Clay Magic, label theirs as light, medium and heavy. Like usual, always start with the least agressive and work from there. If the clay bar you have is the typical auto parts store packaged clay such as Meguiars, that would be similar to the light clay.Good luck.:D
 
Just a FWIW...



If it's indeed catalyzed clearcoat, clay will probably be futile, no matter how aggressive. The hardeners in the clear actually re-polymerize INTO the existing paint, not ON it, ( essentially melting in) and become part OF it. Seen that a lot.



I always wound up using abrasives or lightly ( blocking)wetsanding, and I sure learned to cover things up real well when I paint, because it's definitely a PITA when you get close proximity overspray. Years ago, lacquers and acrylic enamels were a bit more accomodating, and clay worked well.



I certainly could be wrong, but if it was close enough and had time to react with the existing paint, and my experience with the scenario is any indication...well, ...good luck just the same, and I mean that. Cheers. :)
 
Guitarman said:
Just a FWIW...



If it's indeed catalyzed clearcoat, clay will probably be futile, no matter how aggressive. The hardeners in the clear actually re-polymerize INTO the existing paint, not ON it, ( essentially melting in) and become part OF it. Seen that a lot.



I always wound up using abrasives or lightly ( blocking)wetsanding, and I sure learned to cover things up real well when I paint, because it's definitely a PITA when you get close proximity overspray. Years ago, lacquers and acrylic enamels were a bit more accomodating, and clay worked well.



I certainly could be wrong, but if it was close enough and had time to react with the existing paint, and my experience with the scenario is any indication...well, ...good luck just the same, and I mean that. Cheers. :)
Click to expand...



I was thinking along the same lines with the catalyzed paints. Hopeully it began to dry before it hit the car and just touched the surface, but if it's bonded into the paint, then wetsanding is basically the only choice unless a repaint is in order.:D
 
Since you have a PC, you can try to use a finessing material with a soft foam buffing pad.



The Finessing material is a fine compound used in body shops to remove slight imperfections, heavy compound swirls and to create a smooth finish.



I've buffed out several cars using this technique. I have used a high speed buffer, but a PC should work fine.



The most popular finessing material is 3M Finesse It II. There are other companies that have similar products.



An Auto Glym firm white foam pad or a Farecla foam pad should work well. (I noticed you were in England. You should be able to find either of these pads at a local body shop supplier)
 
Cheers for you responses everyone!



I was actually thinking of trying some 3M Fine Cut Compound applied with the PC - I'll probably give it a go tommorow and see how I get on.



If it doesn't improve things then I'm gonna give wetsanding a go. What grade of paper do you guys think would be best? I was thinking of 2000 or 2500 - does that sound OK.
 
2000 to 2500 grit wet and dry sandpaper should work fine. Like always, start with the finest and work down if necessary. I've heard of some using 3000, but I can't imagine it being very abrasive. 2000 is pretty darn fine. Good luck and let us know how it goes and post some before and after pics if you can.:D
 
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