Removing cobwebbing in single stage white

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bileduct

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Anybody here experienced in removing cobweb effect from Honda Taffeta White paint (i.e. you tried and succeeded)? Apparently, this is a single stage paint, and according to Mike Phillip's article on white paints, correcting cobwebbing may be close to impossible.



Here is what I tried on the trunklid of my car: Meguiar's MPPC with Lake Country yellow 6.5 inch cutting pad on PC, starting at 1 to spread it over an 18 X 18 inch area, increase to 4.5 then 6, slow passes with firm but not heavy pressure, then lighten the pressure. No apparent effect on the cobwebbing. The product was hard to remove. I'm assuming, of course, that this product stripped off the Klasse SG I had on there. Next, tried an Orange Power Pad from CMA with Meg's #82 Swirl Free Polish, with the speed set to 4.5 on the PC - setting it higher than that seemed to make the product turn into glue very quickly. Again, no visible improvement. This product also got sticky and hard to remove without an alcohol spritz. There was white pigment on my pad.



I gave up and applied Klasse AIO to the buffed area, then 15 min later put a layer of NXT Tech Wax on using the green pad that came with the wax. There appeared to be white pigment on this applicator pad as well, unless that was the wax itself. The cobwebbing was not appreciably diminished.
 
Is all Taffetta white Honda paint not clearcoated? I have a taffetta white Honda and I am pretty sure i have got a clear.

Sorry, I don't have an answer.
 
I would suggest you are going to need at least DACP and a cutting pad, if not more aggressive. It depends on how bad it is. Was there noticeable white pigment on your buffing pads? If there was, obviously there is no clearcoat, but if there isn't, you have a clearcoat. I actually find removing paint defects easier on non clearcoated paint. Good luck.
 
The white goo on the pad could have been the product you were using "to make the product turn into glue very quickly". I have noticed similar behaviour with #9. I've just bought some #82 so will lookout for pad "gum up".
 
Quote: Removing cobwebbing in single stage white



~One mans opinion / observation~



I’m no expert on paint but if Mike P can’t remove spider webbing from paint I don’t know who can, as was stated in his article the pigmentation used in white paint has a Mohs number of 7 (10 being a diamond).



In a similar situation with classic cars single paint I use a quality Glaze (not a polish to ‘glaze the surface, but a glaze to ‘fill-in’ the surface imperfections)











~Hope this helps~



Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
 
Thanks for the responses so far!



Gonzo - I was wondering myself if the white goo on the pad was product, or pigment. So, I took a black cloth and poured a bit of MPPC on it. OF course, where I poured the product, there was a bit of whitish tint, so I turned the cloth over to where the product had soaked through. There, the cloth just wet black. I rubbed that on the paint, and got white on the cloth. Scottwax had said in one of his posts that 6th gen Accords with white paint do not have clearcoats, and it looks like he's right.



Mike Phillip's article on single stage white paints is written from a professional's perspective. Amongst the Autopian populace are many amateurs who have figured out, through experience, effort and experimentation, how to accomplish almost as much as a pro, but with a PC instead of a rotary buffer. Most of this, however, has been on clearcoated paint. White single stage paint may need a different set of methods. I'm hoping the Autopian community can come up with a good protocol for us amateurs that are stuck with white single stage cars and a PC.
 
Just to chime in here...



I can't remember a single-stage white paint that was soft enough to work defects out of.



Maybe an old white lacquer finish, but I can't remember. I have a 1954 Ford Sunliner offered to me for a before and after on "Original" paint, so I'll try some experimenting at that time.



Make sure when your working on white paint that it is in fact the color coat and not clear coat over white.



If it is, then you're still stuck with working on hard paint, but probably not as hard.



Mike
 
At first I thought I had white clearcoat because:

1) it's very glossy

2) it has a lot of orange peel and I was under the impression that only clearcoated paints had orange peel.



But then I read a post from Scottwax where he said 6th generation white Accords don't have clearcoats. So I took a black cloth, let some MPPC soak into it so there was no whitish product residue on the cloth, then rubbed the underside of the door. It took off pigment.



Anyway, I picked up a bottle of DACP at NAPA Auto Parts. I decided to try it by hand, so I read up on the Scottwax method: fold up a cotton terry towel and Be Strong. I leaned into it on the trunklid, rubbing back and forth hard enough to make the car jiggle around. The surface was warm to the touch where I buffed - you can get some serious friction going by hand, but there is NO way I could do the whole car in one day. (Just for fun I also tried a Viking foam pad on a small area, the blue and black one with the foam handle. They squeek like crazy as the DACP starts to dry.)



After the DACP I used Deep Crystal Step 1 Paint Cleaner with a microfiber pad to remove any gummy DACP residues that had not buffed off. Next I applied Klasse AIO with a microfiber pad, followed by Klasse SG. (I had NXT on the trunklid, but the rest of the car still had Klasse. I decided to revert back to Klasse in order to fairly compare the DACP'd area to the non-DACP'd area). I let the sealant cure for 2 days before taking a good look at my work.



This time I was surprised. There was a significant reduction in the cobwebbing when viewed in direct sunlight. I didn't get it all out - there are scattered lonely scratches that actually kind of stick out like sore thumbs now because they are not totally surrounded by swirls. They must be a little deeper.



To those of you who cannot afford a PC, take heart. Brute Force and DACP can get the job done, sometimes better than a PC. And single stage white paint is not a complete Lost Cause. It's close, though.
 
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