Recommendation for fine scratches
- Thread starter mets2010
- Start date
Start with something mild and work up as needed. Need way more information to even get in the ballpark on a recommendation. What kind of car, what year, do you have a buffer, if so, what kind, what products do you have on hand, what are you willing to spend on equipment and products, etc.
imported_Erik Mejia1
New member
Mets2010 said:
Which polishes do you own? I'd start by doing a test spot with your least abrasive polish and see if that removes the scratches, then go from there.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Mets2010 said:
Not sure if the green pad is the best match for the 85rd (and there are a scad of different "green pads" to further complicate this). The 85rd shouldn't be too strong in-and-of itself.
Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!
dschribs
New member
This is a brand new Mercedes. If you're not too experience and "willing to spend whatever you need to get it done right" I would contact a pro and let him go to town. Mercedes paint - especially black - can be a challenge.
Get it 95% corrected then you can concentrate on keeping it that way via proper washing technique.
Get it 95% corrected then you can concentrate on keeping it that way via proper washing technique.
Thomas Dekany
New member
I also really doubt that it is just here and there. Put it inside the garage, turn the lights off and turn on your halogen or flash light. Inspect paint. Do use your pc. Ignore the bad advice. Do not try fixing it by hand. It is hard clear, will need work. If you mess it up, you can always hire a pro from here to fix it.
Thomas Dekany
New member
He has Menzerna and Optimum product - why the recommendation for Scratch-X? It is an inferior product.
bill57 said:
will the scratch marks come back once the sealant breaks down? the car is in the garage all the time especially in the winter and never goes out unless it is sunny, i have been reading about aquartz and opti-coat but don't know much about it. my concern is if I have it professionally fixed if down the road it is going to look worse because the sealant breaks down then if I just left the few scratches alone.
dschribs said:
Accumulator
Well-known member
Mets2010 said:
Sealants generally don't do much (if anything) in the way of concealing, so the reppearance shouldn't be an issue unless you use some kind of sealant-friendly glaze/concealing agent prior to applying the sealant.
And no, I wouldn't try doing it by hand, not for any reason. You can be just as gentle via PC as by hand with the right pads/products. Think of the PC/etc. as merely a "fast hand that doesn't get fatigued".
As noted, the big challenge will be avoiding new marring. Washing without marring the paint is very difficult.
SuperBee364
New member
Accumulator said:
Caution, rant to follow...
/rantmode
In order for marring, swirls, scratches, etc. to occur some sort of mechanical action is required; some abrasive must be dragged along the surface of the paint. When is the only time paint is subjected to such mechanical action? THE WASH. And that's pretty much it, save for the odd key scratch, shrub branch, and the like. If there is no mechanical action against the paint it won't be scratched. It's as easy as that. So when do all those swirls, scratches, etc. actually happen? If you answered "THE WASH", you win!
Treat you car's clear coat the same way you'd treat your 1985 box set of "The Wall" CD's. Seriously. You wouldn't take a wash mitt to a dirty CD and expect it to come out clean and scratch free, would ya? No? Then you can't expect your clear coat to, either.
Unfortunately, the "Two Bucket Method" has been touted as the only way to wash your car without marring, and nothing could be further from the truth.
If you are serious about maintaining a swirl free car, remember that the clear coat is just like your most prized CD's. Keeping that in mind, go read Accumulator's Non-marring Wash Method./rantmode