Recommend products for new Red Honda

mrduke

New member
I recently purchased a 2007 Honda CRV in Tango Red Pearl. I would like recommendations for a polish and sealant to use. On my 1999 CRV I used 3M Swirl Mark Remover and Klasse Sealant. This worked well, but that was not a new car when I bought it. I'm thinking of either Menzerna FPII, then FMJ, or Blackfire Scratch Resistant Clear Finishing Polish followed with Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection.



Thanks,

Duke
 
I agree with Scottwax. What are your goals? Do you want a good look with excellent durability or maximum looks with less durability. Sealants provide good looks with long term durability and waxes provide max looks with a shorter durability.
 
Clay the car.

Apply 1 coat of Klasse All-In-One. Remove.

Apply 1 thin coat of Klasse Sealant Glaze. Wait 1 hour. Remove. Wait 18 hours.

Apply 1 more thin coat of Klasse Sealant Glaze. Wait 1 hour. Remove. Wait 18 hours.

Apply 1 more thin coat of Klasse Sealant Glaze. Wait 1 hour. Remove. Wait 18 hours.

Apply 1 coat of a fine carnauba wax (Pinnacle, S100, etc.) Remove.

Admire.

Apply wax bi-weekly, and allow it to be a 'sacrificial' layer of protection.



It really doesn't get much better than this...



Good Luck.



Jim
 
Here's the rear trunklid of my Redondo Red Pearl Accord done with Wolfgang sealant (no polish) applied with a PC and white pad, removed by hand. Not the most durable but it provides quite a nice look in my opinion. The photo was taken in the garage, the reflections are driveway & the houses across the street.
 

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Thanks for the replys so far!



I use a DA polisher for any prep work, but have always applied the final layer, whether it be a wax or sealant, by hand.



My goal is both durability and looks, but I would probably lean more toward durability.



One thing I do not like to see is swirl marks, spider webbing etc. I prefer to actually remove them, or at least round them off, instead of just filling. Since this is a new vehicle, there is hardly any of that yet. Simply some minor imperfections from the dealer washings.



Jim's recommendation of the Klasse AIO, followed by Sealant Glaze, then carnuba wax sounds close to what I used to do. Though I never used the wax top coat. I did layer the Sealant Glaze.



I never used the AIO on my previous CRV because it wasn't new when I got it, and I felt like the AIO would not do as well on the swirl marks as 3M Swirl Remover. I am leaning toward not using the 3M on this new cars paint, thinking it might be a little too much. I had read that the Final Polish II used very fine polishing agents (no fillers), and the Blackfire Finishing Polish maybe just a little less fine.



I am not very familiar with the Wolfgang products, though I am researching them now.



Any further recommendations or comment is much appreciated.



Duke
 
MDRX8 said:
Sealant - clay, fpII, Prime strong., JW AJ....



I have researched the JW products, but why use both the FPII and Prime Strong? Isn't the Prime Strong a mildly abrasive polish also, along with acrylic content?



Duke
 
Honda has softer paint and a good AIO will work great as long as there are no major scratches and defects. I have been using ZAIO quite often and it has a good punch with good durability. Top with CS and it will be glossy and wet looking and have great durability. You can even top with Z5 without zfx if you use ZAIO.



Just an easy option with great results!
 
Jimmy Buffit said:
Clay the car.

Apply 1 coat of Klasse All-In-One. Remove.

Apply 1 thin coat of Klasse Sealant Glaze. Wait 1 hour. Remove. Wait 18 hours.

Apply 1 more thin coat of Klasse Sealant Glaze. Wait 1 hour. Remove. Wait 18 hours.

Apply 1 more thin coat of Klasse Sealant Glaze. Wait 1 hour. Remove. Wait 18 hours.

Apply 1 coat of a fine carnauba wax (Pinnacle, S100, etc.) Remove.

Admire.

Apply wax bi-weekly, and allow it to be a 'sacrificial' layer of protection.



It really doesn't get much better than this...



Good Luck.



Jim



That the most over overkill for a new car I've ever seen! :wow:
 
Somebody said, clay, FP2, JW prime and then AJT and that should look good, be durable, and protect pretty well. Usually JW AJ looks great but maybe a carnuaba would add a little more wetness or w/e, your choice.



Question... Why are you guys suggesting prime strong over prime?



Alex
 
wash, clay, light polish, sealant, carnuba....



FpII, megs 21 sealant, carnuba wax of choice...



looks are purely in the eyes of the beholder....
 
Hondaph00l said:
Somebody said, clay, FP2, JW prime and then AJT and that should look good, be durable, and protect pretty well. Usually JW AJ looks great but maybe a carnuaba would add a little more wetness or w/e, your choice.



Question... Why are you guys suggesting prime strong over prime?



Alex



Prime Strong has a bit more cut.



I'd definitely go with Werkstatt over Klasse. Easier to use, deeper shine and for me, it has also been more durable.
 
AJT looks quite good as far as sealants. i use it all the time on my cars. If your red car has a metal flake component to the paint and you want to use a wax, give FK Pink Wax a try. I have a garnet red pearl Subaru and it makes the metal flake pop more than any of my other waxes. It's quite a dramatic difference......not that my other waxes don't make the car look good, just that the PW makes the metal flake aspect shine a bit more, whereas the others sort of mute that aspect but give a deeper wet look versus the shiny candy metal flake look.



To me, the effect of a carnuba can vary dramatically depending on the color/composition of the paint you're putting it on. Experimentation will show you what works best for your car.....and more importantly what aspect of your paint you wish to emphasize
 
Finally had a chance this past week to polish and seal the new Honda CRV. After much research and considering suggestions, I decided to use Jeffs Werkstatt Prime:Strong to clear up the minor swirls and scuffs, then topped that with Werkstatt AJT.



I used a Waxmaster DA polisher that I have adapted to use a Velco backing plate. I chose to use a white polishing pad with the Prime:Strong. This combination I would say corrected at least 95% of the flaws, viewed in several different kinds of lighting (300W incandesents, 150W halogens, 500W halogens and sunlight). Swirls are all but impossible to find, but one horizontal line across the back of the hood, that is visible at some angles, I could not completely remove.



I worked the PS until it almost completely cleared out which is what Jeffs recommended. I found that doing this did cause a fair amount of dusting, but residue clean up was easy.



The AJT I applied by hand with a microfiber applicator, and worked it until it had in most cases cleared out. I used a plush microfiber towel for a final cleanup. The AJT is extremely easy to use.



Here are some pictures:

[attachment=6998:11711.attach]



[attachment=7000:11713.attach]



I have since added several layers of AJT to the hood, and have done 2 layers on the sides. I have also used the Jeffs Acrylic Glos Detailer to remove dust between layering and that worked great also.



Most of my past experience has been with 3M Swirl Mark Remover and Klasse Sealant Glaze. The Jeffs products worked much easier and gave me a better finish. I love layering that AJT!



Duke
 

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