Swanicyouth
New member
So, the rear main seal (RMS) started recently leaking on my old Pathfinder. It`s 17 years old - so I guess it`s about due for something to start leaking. I replaced the valve cover, intake, plenum, lower oil pan gasket, & PCV valve myself in the past 6 months - all were weeping slightly
For those that don`t know, to replace a RMS you have to pull the transmission. And, on a 4x4 vehicle like this - you have to pull the transfer case as well. Also, on this particular vehicle, the RMS is part of what seals the oil pan. So, you guessed it - you have to pull & re-seal the oil pan as well....Doing this at home on the ground is just too much of a PIA for me.
So, I`ve been just letting it drip:
Im loosing a quart every 2500 miles (Mobil 1 EXP 5w30). The issue isn`t the oil lost, but constantly having to worry about dripping oil on my garage floor & driveway.
"Fixing" it is north of $2k. If that were the end of story - I prolly would just do it. But, back in the day, I replaced enough RMSs on old cars to know it`s really a crap shoot. You never know if simply replacing the seal will actually fix the leak. Some speculate this is from the old hardened seal wearing a slight groove on the crankshaft the new seal can`t compensate for. Could just be from old stuff being old stuff.
So, I`m at a cross roads. Dump $2k+ on a 17 year old car on a repair that may or may not work. Trade it it? Thinking about it. But, there really isn`t anything else wrong it - except some sub panel rust. Live with it? That`s what I`ve been doing for about 6 months. I would like to park in my driveway & not have to run out with a drip pan. Then when it`s windy - it likes to blow away. Sux.
Well, to the few who`s interest I kept thus far - I`m testing another solution...
Believe me, I`m from the school that says oil additives are garbage and don`t work. However, for $7 - there seems to be something to this stuff. Reviews on Amazon are about 3.5 out of 5. About 50% of the people claim it fixed their RMS leak 100%.
How could this be possible? Shills? Well, I did a little research and it turns out there is some type of chemical in this product that makes seals swells and become more pliable. The manufacturer claims it works on all types of seals: synthetic rubber, butyl, rope seals, viton, etc...
It says on the bottle it should take full effect within 100 miles. Since I know I go through exactly 1 quart every 2500 miles and use 5000 mile oil change intervals - I waited until exactly the point where I was 1/2 way through my oil change interval & 1 quart down to add it. So, I have a way of somewhat measuring the efficacy - bedsides trying to quantify drops on the ground. After a few hundred miles I`ll clean the trans / lower engine off with Brake Kleen so I can get a legit idea if the drips decrease.
The manufacturer states this stuff helps to fix all oil leaks - besides RMS leaks. When you open the bottle, the stuff is 100% clear and sorta stinks like gear oil. But, it`s not as thick as gear oil. The manufacturer states there are no "particles" in this product to clog anything - but polymers and solvents that repair seals. The manufacturer also states they recommend using it every other oil change or every 6k mikes.
I will also switch to some thicker high mileage synthetic oil next change (2500 miles). But, I wanted to use just this stuff first to see if it helps.
So, will it:
1. Fix it 100%?
2. Help a bit, but still leak a bit?
3. Have zero effect?
Stay tuned for the next few months to see.
****As a complete aside, when I bought this vehicle, about 6 years ago - it had a pretty bad torque converter shudder when the TC locked up in 4th gear. I`m even going to speculate, it could have POSSIBLY been misdiagnosed as a bad transmission - and that is why the prior owner traded it in.
So, conventional wisdom is to change to fluid and see. That is what I did at the time. I used the "Castrol Import ATF" which is a semi-synthetic (I believe) version of Nissan`s Matic J trans fluid.
No change.
Nothing.
So, at the time, I did some research - and there were all types of TSBs / posts, etc. that recommended replacing the valve body, electric shift solenoids, torque converter, transmission control module. rebuilding the trans, etc... to address this known issue. All with users reporting various results. Nothing seemed to be a know fix 100%.
Then I came across a $10 product from a company call "Lubraguard" (sp?) called Dr. Trannys Shudder Fix. Reviews were very good. Spent the $10 - and it fixed the issue 100%. It seems there are some friction modifiers / chemicals in this product that can eliminate torque converter lock up shudder. It seems conventional transmission fluids have these, but not necessarily enough to work on older torque converters sufficiently.
So, that additive I can tell you is 100 % legit and works. I just add some every 2 years when I change the fluid and haven`t had a shudder since.
For those that don`t know, to replace a RMS you have to pull the transmission. And, on a 4x4 vehicle like this - you have to pull the transfer case as well. Also, on this particular vehicle, the RMS is part of what seals the oil pan. So, you guessed it - you have to pull & re-seal the oil pan as well....Doing this at home on the ground is just too much of a PIA for me.
So, I`ve been just letting it drip:
Im loosing a quart every 2500 miles (Mobil 1 EXP 5w30). The issue isn`t the oil lost, but constantly having to worry about dripping oil on my garage floor & driveway.
"Fixing" it is north of $2k. If that were the end of story - I prolly would just do it. But, back in the day, I replaced enough RMSs on old cars to know it`s really a crap shoot. You never know if simply replacing the seal will actually fix the leak. Some speculate this is from the old hardened seal wearing a slight groove on the crankshaft the new seal can`t compensate for. Could just be from old stuff being old stuff.
So, I`m at a cross roads. Dump $2k+ on a 17 year old car on a repair that may or may not work. Trade it it? Thinking about it. But, there really isn`t anything else wrong it - except some sub panel rust. Live with it? That`s what I`ve been doing for about 6 months. I would like to park in my driveway & not have to run out with a drip pan. Then when it`s windy - it likes to blow away. Sux.
Well, to the few who`s interest I kept thus far - I`m testing another solution...
Believe me, I`m from the school that says oil additives are garbage and don`t work. However, for $7 - there seems to be something to this stuff. Reviews on Amazon are about 3.5 out of 5. About 50% of the people claim it fixed their RMS leak 100%.
How could this be possible? Shills? Well, I did a little research and it turns out there is some type of chemical in this product that makes seals swells and become more pliable. The manufacturer claims it works on all types of seals: synthetic rubber, butyl, rope seals, viton, etc...
It says on the bottle it should take full effect within 100 miles. Since I know I go through exactly 1 quart every 2500 miles and use 5000 mile oil change intervals - I waited until exactly the point where I was 1/2 way through my oil change interval & 1 quart down to add it. So, I have a way of somewhat measuring the efficacy - bedsides trying to quantify drops on the ground. After a few hundred miles I`ll clean the trans / lower engine off with Brake Kleen so I can get a legit idea if the drips decrease.
The manufacturer states this stuff helps to fix all oil leaks - besides RMS leaks. When you open the bottle, the stuff is 100% clear and sorta stinks like gear oil. But, it`s not as thick as gear oil. The manufacturer states there are no "particles" in this product to clog anything - but polymers and solvents that repair seals. The manufacturer also states they recommend using it every other oil change or every 6k mikes.
I will also switch to some thicker high mileage synthetic oil next change (2500 miles). But, I wanted to use just this stuff first to see if it helps.
So, will it:
1. Fix it 100%?
2. Help a bit, but still leak a bit?
3. Have zero effect?
Stay tuned for the next few months to see.
****As a complete aside, when I bought this vehicle, about 6 years ago - it had a pretty bad torque converter shudder when the TC locked up in 4th gear. I`m even going to speculate, it could have POSSIBLY been misdiagnosed as a bad transmission - and that is why the prior owner traded it in.
So, conventional wisdom is to change to fluid and see. That is what I did at the time. I used the "Castrol Import ATF" which is a semi-synthetic (I believe) version of Nissan`s Matic J trans fluid.
No change.
Nothing.
So, at the time, I did some research - and there were all types of TSBs / posts, etc. that recommended replacing the valve body, electric shift solenoids, torque converter, transmission control module. rebuilding the trans, etc... to address this known issue. All with users reporting various results. Nothing seemed to be a know fix 100%.
Then I came across a $10 product from a company call "Lubraguard" (sp?) called Dr. Trannys Shudder Fix. Reviews were very good. Spent the $10 - and it fixed the issue 100%. It seems there are some friction modifiers / chemicals in this product that can eliminate torque converter lock up shudder. It seems conventional transmission fluids have these, but not necessarily enough to work on older torque converters sufficiently.
So, that additive I can tell you is 100 % legit and works. I just add some every 2 years when I change the fluid and haven`t had a shudder since.
