random rotary vid i found

I work all my finish polishes that long. It's called burnishing the paint to absolute perfection. That is how the true gloss, reflection, and sharpness of the paint are brought out. You just have to REALLY know what you are doing. This is the fun part of the job that I always love. You really have to have an eye for detail when doing this procedure.



Everyone always ask me,''how the hell do you get your paints so damn glossy"? Well this is how. It does take a long time though.
 
That's Matt from OYM, he uses 3M Ultrafina to finish and as said above works the polish for a log time to break it down fully.
 
interesting...thanks for the replies. i didn't know polishes had that long of a working time with a rotary. all of the vids i've seen always had the operator spraying down the panel and continuing on. good info. :)
 
you get the right polishes that break down proper with the right lubricants you can work them forever. The part that isn't shown is the pressure technique. Pressure on at first to remove the holograms and break down the polish, and then the no pressure at all which burnishes the paint to a jewel like surface when the polish is all broken down.



This is also what makes the rotary the best polishing tool. This process really takes knowledge and experience.
 
rydawg - Question? I watched this same person buff a black Porsche hood. He started doing the 2/3rd's portion of the center of the hood(about a 2 X 2 area). He 1st worked the product in at a slow speed, then brought up the speed considerably and buffed that area for about 3 minutes(burnishing). He never buffed outside of that area 1 time. Towards the end (when the polish was broken down) he stopped working in the area he started originally in and then proceeded to the outside adjacent sections of the hood? Those areas weren't buffed yet? What's the point of doing this? Why polish/burnish a spot that hasn't been cut yet? I trying to learn more. Is a form of feathering?
 
David Fermani said:
rydawg - Question? I watched this same person buff a black Porsche hood. He started doing the 2/3rd's portion of the center of the hood(about a 2 X 2 area). He 1st worked the product in at a slow speed, then brought up the speed considerably and buffed that area for about 3 minutes(burnishing). He never buffed outside of that area 1 time. Towards the end (when the polish was broken down) he stopped working in the area he started originally in and then proceeded to the outside adjacent sections of the hood? Those areas weren't buffed yet? What's the point of doing this? Why polish/burnish a spot that hasn't been cut yet? I trying to learn more. Is a form of feathering?
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I would have to see the video. The only thing that I could think of is he was finishing that last finish (burnishing process and then lastly going over the whole are to reensure there are no trail marks left and to blend the whole gloss all together.



If he is burnishing the paint with a finish polish, the he should have already corrected the paint with another correction polish. But, on Porsche's they are very soft and all you mainly need is a finish polish and a blue pad. Anything more aggressive will be overkill for these paints, whether it is a harsher polish or pad.



Find the video and I will be able to tell you for sure.
 
David Fermani said:
rydawg - Question? I watched this same person buff a black Porsche hood. He started doing the 2/3rd's portion of the center of the hood(about a 2 X 2 area). He 1st worked the product in at a slow speed, then brought up the speed considerably and buffed that area for about 3 minutes(burnishing). He never buffed outside of that area 1 time. Towards the end (when the polish was broken down) he stopped working in the area he started originally in and then proceeded to the outside adjacent sections of the hood? Those areas weren't buffed yet? What's the point of doing this? Why polish/burnish a spot that hasn't been cut yet? I trying to learn more. Is a form of feathering?
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guys



just joined up and found this thread - wanted to see if i had made it across the water to you guys lol!



Ok the technique described above - there is a format.



the whole bonnet `hood' has already been corrected at that point. i work the area and then at the final stages i work the perimeter of the section with the oil/broken/spent polish to provide me with a lead into the next section ie feathering. Its not critical but thats my way.



over here porsche paint aint soft - some earlier single paints are, but generally they are hard. Hence the speed, duration etc, plus i'm using a 3m waffle with ultrafina therefore a very very mild finishing and great for burnishing.



best regards



matt
 
This question is not just for Matt, but for anyone with experience with a rotary.



My experience is with a dual action polisher however I just got my Makita 9227C delivered yesterday and I will buy a hood or panel from a salvage yard to practice on over the winter.



My question is, is it common to move the rotary as fast as Matt was? I realize when using my Makita I will be moving it faster than what I had been used to with my DA, but Matt really seemed to be moving the polisher fast.
 
bert31 said:
This question is not just for Matt, but for anyone with experience with a rotary.



My experience is with a dual action polisher however I just got my Makita 9227C delivered yesterday and I will buy a hood or panel from a salvage yard to practice on over the winter.



My question is, is it common to move the rotary as fast as Matt was? I realize when using my Makita I will be moving it faster than what I had been used to with my DA, but Matt really seemed to be moving the polisher fast.
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After watching a few moments of each vid I see nothing wrong with his speed or movements. You have to remember a rotary is alot more powerful than a D/A it makes the job go much much faster so obviously the movements will be faster as well. He's doing it correctly.
 
Jakerooni said:
After watching a few moments of each vid I see nothing wrong with his speed or movements. You have to remember a rotary is alot more powerful than a D/A it makes the job go much much faster so obviously the movements will be faster as well. He's doing it correctly.
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OK. Like I said, I knew you could move faster with a rotary, I just didn't realize THAT much faster. I move at a snails pace over the paint with my UDM:grinno:
 
No doubt. The original poster mentioned how much time he spent on one area. Shoot, I spend at least that much time in one area with the PC. If that's a long time, I really need to move up to a rotary.
 
I highly advise everyone that wants to detail to move up to a rotary. But it's just my opinion. They really are not hard to learn at all and save so much time it really makes detailing fun.
 
Jakerooni said:
I highly advise everyone that wants to detail to move up to a rotary. But it's just my opinion. They really are not hard to learn at all and save so much time it really makes detailing fun.
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I agree. I just got a Makita 9227 a few weeks ago, and it isn't difficult. Of course, it helps to have some prior experience with a PC. You just have to pay attention to what you are doing, and not drift off to la-la land while you are buffing. I have also found that a lot of guys stiffen up and try to man handle the rotary, instead of "going with the flow". The 5 part wetsanding videos on YouTube featuring Mike Pennington of Meguiar's also are helpful for picking up tips on the rotary.
 
Hi guys



re the rotary comments - there is no one way to use one as there are so many variables - pad, polish ( the way it needs to be worked) paint type, defect type, pressure applied ( varies according to area of panel ie near a contour etc and all of the above) polishing stage, outside/inside temp and humidity ( re Menz IP in particular) etc etc



There are some basic actions and formats to follow. Bit like driving really - you can learn to control a car but you dont drive at 30 in 2nd gear all day - it needs to vary depending on conditions.



re roatry though - seriously good tool and can produce dramatic results in the right hands. much like wetsanding



a ptg for steels and one for composites is a must though imho



best regards



Matt
 
"re the rotary comments - there is no one way to use one as there are so many variables - pad, polish ( the way it needs to be worked) paint type, defect type, pressure applied ( varies according to area of panel ie near a contour etc and all of the above) polishing stage, outside/inside temp and humidity ( re Menz IP in particular) etc etc" - offyourmarks



Right, but like I said, having prior experience with the PC helps one become somewhat familiar with different paint types, and how different products act. You are correct that nothing replaces experience, but, I don't think using a rotary is as hard as a lot of people make it out to be.
 
Jakerooni said:
I highly advise everyone that wants to detail to move up to a rotary. But it's just my opinion. They really are not hard to learn at all and save so much time it really makes detailing fun.
Click to expand...



Till you burn the paint.:lol



Just kidding. I am just going into rotary polishing slowly.
 
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