Rail Dust removal alternatives

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kajunman

New member
Would the Optimum Optic Eraser-Fine Grade or the Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge – Fine Grade be as good at removing rail dust and neutralizing it as the ValuGard ABC System.



Thanks in advance,

kajunman
 
Removing rail dust-Yes; but surface only. Neutralizing - No





Vehicle manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants (like imbedded rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other environmental contaminants) from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished through a thorough chemical cleaning and acid neutralization.









TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki - “ValuGard Paint Decontamination Systemâ€� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141242-valugard-paint-decontamination-system.html
 
Jon's statement is based on "vehicle manufactuers" findings and requirements, not one individual's experience.

There are thread after thread on the removal of ferrous metal particles, however, there are no "substansiating" documents from vehicle manufactuers to document the long term success of their actions used to remove such contaminates.

Those vehicle manufacturer documents are at valugard.net under technical service bulletins.
 
I always though the surefire way of nuking all that nastiness was to clay while product B is dwelling on the paint. It is more work, having to both wash and clay, but an extremely thorough way to decontaminate. I think in my area I can more or less get away with just doing the ABC wash which I find to be a bit less work than thoroughly claying every square inch of the car but it all depends on how much contamination is in your area.
 
The kit now comes with the VG-IS pad for working the "B", as many have discovered, it does not mar the paint, but does allow a more complete removal on heavily contaminated vehicles.

No real need to use your clay now.

Save it for most paint oversprays, that's what it was made for.
 
Next time I order B I have to remember to get that pad as well just to have for any heavy contaminated situations.
 
kajunman said:
Bump. Come on guys-only one opinion...
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OK, I'll add my 2₵.



Shearing/abrading away contamination doesn't get everything out of the paint (can't clean out the pores/micro-fissures) and you need some kind of chemical process to neutralize the stuff that's left behind. Simple as that, without the chemical action you can't expect to truly "neutralize" the contamination.



Bill D said:
I always though the surefire way of nuking all that nastiness was to clay while product B is dwelling on the paint. It is more work, having to both wash and clay, but an extremely thorough way to decontaminate.
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That's the way I always did it, but at Ron Ketcham's suggestion I tried the ValuGard pad when I ABCed the latest Crown Vic and it worked well. Didn't appreciably mar up the (not-Audi-hard) Ford clear. I'd probably still clay if I had a lot of stuff that I thought would benefit from "shearing as opposed to scrubbing" though. You know, to get the worst of it off in a knock-it-loose sort of way. The pad seems nice and gentle and might be too gentle for some situations.
 
Bill D said:
Next time I order B I have to remember to get that pad as well just to have for any heavy contaminated situations.
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They are also fantastic for bug deposit removal without scratching the paint.
 
There are a couple schools of thought to tackling this issue. Visibly and Completely. It depends on the situation you are dealth with such as for a personal customer or a turn and burn/dealer/high volume environment. Regardless of the way you choose, the rail dust/iron particles are going to return over time.
 
David Fermani said:
... Regardless of the way you choose, the rail dust/iron particles are going to return over time.
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Ya know...on the vehicles I've ABCed (and then kept well-maintained), that hasn't happened. The subsequent (re-)contamination has basically never made it through the LSP, so "claying the LSP clean", and maybe reLSPing if I clayed somewhat aggressively, has done the trick. And no, the rustblooms never came back so it really *was* just in the LSP and I was able to get it with the clay.



Funny, huh? Especially what with all the winter exposure my vehicles get. Must have something to do with the way I layer the LSPs so fanatically.
 
Makes total sense for you Accumulator. You are using high quality protectants and maintainly your vehicles regularly.



I've done tons of repeat warranty claims after using the prescribed ABC/Motorcraft decon kit. Mainly because those people didn't maintain their vehicles anywhere to correct standards. We would basically seal them with a cheap glaze and ship em. OEMs didn't pay for anything more. Just to remove the spots and any marring we might have caused during the claying process.
 
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