Question for UNO experts..

I

imported_WCD

New member
Hey guys,



So today, before a TV crew came for a story, I had a black and pretty new X3 in my driveway. Although a newer car, it is horrid! There is so much marring that under the Brinkmann, the paint looks more grey, than black.



I took the UNO, Griots, and green pad, and although it began to work on the marring, it left very, very small marks- 2 cm. maybe in the direction of the polisher rotation.



I then took 205 and the Megs. yellow and the next section quickly came out nice, dark, and about 90% better.



I want UNO to work, so my question is.....should I be doing something different with UNO? Did it need to be on a Flex to work better? Was the polish not leveling out due to lack of heat? Or, are some paints just more compatible with 205? I have seen Thomas get amazing results with UNO on about any kind of paint, so this leads me to believe I am doing something incorrect. I had good results with some paint, but this was driving me nuts!



Thanks for any advice, Rob
 
Rob it might be a situation where that black paint is just so soft that the non diminishing nature of UNO and 205 are leaving micromarring (little semi circle or half moon shaped very consistent/numerous in number?). Remember that non-diminishing abrasive polishes don't get any smaller, so if its big enough to marr at the start, its big enough to marr as the polish finishes, whereas traditional polishes get smaller and smaller, bringing the surface more glossy and glossy as they are worked (which is why we always tell people to "work the polish completely")





If indeed your pads weren't contaminated, you might just be in a situation where a diminishing abrasive polish(that basically self refines as it is worked) is the appropriate follow up to these products that sound like they do a great job on the swirling you are tackling, but just leave their own marks.



Mike
 
Mike,



Your comments about the "new" marring are right on...very consistent and small- semi-circular. My guess is what you stated...soft paint with non-diminishing abras. are leaving their own marks.



With that said... I am only familiar with what I stated in the first comment and Opt. polishes. Are or is there a product you recommend? Although..205 did do quite well.



Thanks and you said it very well! Rob
 
Thomas, Yes. There is no mettalic in the paint, just flat black. I also did use the MF pad- it left less marring, but the 205 and yellow foam finished best. Any ideas for me Thomas? Thanks!
 
WCD- Are you certain that the M205 really did leave a nice finish? Its oils can do some concealing and are sometimes too tenacious for IPA to remove completely.
 
Hmmmm..interesting. I will check since it's my neighbor's car. Thanks! My Flex and other machines are in Seattle for a week so I do not have more than my Griots with me.



My employee uses Menz. polishes and the new Flex rotary. We'll see what he can do!



I should look for something to use with soft paints, however.
 
WCD said:
Hmmmm..interesting. I will check since it's my neighbor's car. Thanks! My Flex and other machines are in Seattle for a week so I do not have more than my Griots with me.



My employee uses Menz. polishes and the new Flex rotary. We'll see what he can do!



I should look for something to use with soft paints, however.
Click to expand...



You need a diminishing abrasive, something along a finishing polish line(for when you run into these types of paints).



As your employee for a little of 85RD and 106FA(85RD being the finer of the 2) and see if you can't completely eliminate that micromarring the 205 and UNO are putting in. It should finish out perfectly for you.



I think Thomas(Tdekany) has gotten some pretty crazy correction from 85RD on just a white pad on really soft paint so that tells you it should be able to eliminate the lighter stuff without too much issue.



Keep us updated Rob
 
Robert,



To me it sounds like your pad is filled to much with product. Let me think about this for a sec......



OK as a pad gets to much product in it, the product may clump together. The abrasive particles will grow leaving behind DA marks. If you look at people who constently use a DA for polishing. They always say keep your pad as clean as possible., This is one of the main reasons. Imagine it like this, Man i forget where I heard this analogy from, but at the time I thought it was awesome. Imagine putting a fresh Jello cube on the table freely. As you shake the table the Jello will jiggles back and forth. This effect is what happens when to much pressure and a dirty pad is involed. With a build up of product on your pad and downward pressure the pad will jiggle back and forth instead of following its natural course. This will leave marring that looks like DA marks. On softer paint this can do more harm then good. Me personally when I finish down with Uno on a DA machine. I will lube my pad with 3D's final touch as opposed to priming it with product.



Lubing the pad for me is a few light quick mists, then a ill massage it into the pad to keep it damp not wet. This will allow for the product to spread easier and not clump up. Try this out and let me know what you think.



On a side note I agree with Accumulator about those oils in 205 they can be deceiving for sure.
 
Thanks for the continued responses. The pad was clean and it was the first application. I do spray one light mist of spray onto the pads. I'll keep working and appreciate the advice on 205.



Rob
 
Hi Rob,

We experienced the same thing with soft Jet black paint. Our in-house tester Franc used rotary at 1000 rpm (after using Flex for the first two steps...cut & polish) at the final finish with our HD Red finishing pad. He got rid of all the marks. Starnge using Rotary after Flex to finish but it worked great!

Also he mentioned that if you have to use FLex or PC only then to prime the pads at the finishing stage with 3D Final touch or Quick detailer ( I know you do) and to make sure that you use very little HDUNO.

Sometimes detailers might "Over work" the final finishing stage with a lot of product. At the finishing stage very little product is needed.

One last thing to remember is to slow down the PC or Flex and ease off on pressure . Not to the extent to let the pad run loose.

Please share with us if you come up with a different solution.

TG
 
Hi Rob - what year is the X3? I can tell you that in my experience UNO will finish fine on Jet black but that paint is like nothing else. Takes a while to get to know it. Have you tried the yellow pad and UNO? How about the red uno pad and 205?



Thanks
 
I will try some things tomorrow if I have time...packing for Seattle Detail Trip. :)



This is most likely a '10 or newer car. I'll get pics tomorrow as my new LED lights just arrived and are better than the xenon when outdoors, but in the shade. Maybe I can do a quick video so you all can critique my style- that would actually be awesome! I'll see what I can get. I do know that I kept the Griots under speed 6- around 5 or just above.



Let's hope Rob can improve! :)



Thanks, Rob
 
FWIW, I've had great results with a rotary on jet black BMW paint using Menz IP (Not SIP) for correcting, followed by rotary, zero bite pad, and either Menz FPII or Ultrafina.
 
"WE" also had great results with menzerna on the rotary (106/85) until we used a paint cleaner on the paint.



SuperBee364 said:
FWIW, I've had great results with a rotary on jet black BMW paint using Menz IP (Not SIP) for correcting, followed by rotary, zero bite pad, and either Menz FPII or Ultrafina.
Click to expand...
 
tdekany said:
"WE" also had great results with menzerna on the rotary (106/85) until we used a paint cleaner on the paint.
Click to expand...



I never was able to get 106 or 85 to work well on soft paints like bmw jet black (or SIP, for that matter). Always had to go to something extremely mild, like FPII or UF. And yeah... always had to follow up with either tons of IPA or Prep Wash to get passed the filling effect Menz polishes like to do.
 
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