Question about where to start on a black car...

9

99SVTCobra

New member
There's a lot of information to absorb here, as I've been reading for 4 days now. I will be tackling my black car this weekend and have some questions.



I'll be using the PC for the first time. Car has mild swirls, with a few spots having some heavy swirls (but nothing that is past the clear coat).



Where/what should I start with? From what I read this is the order I was thinking of going.....

Menzerna IP

Menzerna FP

Klause AIO

Klause SG



Anything above overkill? And is the IP for working on specific tuff spots on the car, or should it be used on the entire car as a complete step?



I will be following up with P21S wax.



Oh, last question, I have some Vinilla Moose, if I were to use the VM, what step would it replace with my above list?
 
If you haven't clayed, you might want to fit that in somewhere. Also a paint cleaner, which I'd put before the clay, though some would argue after (but they'd be wrong :D ).
 
I clayed the car 2 weeks ago, then applied a coat of Zaino. I want to try something different. I assume I do not need to reclay the car again after only 2 weeks. Been in the garage all but 4 hours during that time.



What would be some good paint cleaners?
 
See how it feels. Put your hand in a sandwich (plastic) bag and rub over the surface. If it isn't absolutely smooth. You'll need to clay.
 
Gotcha...I understand that technique.



Big question for me though is the IP....should it be used on the whole car or to just get ride of heavy swirls in certain spots. I'm just not sure how agressive the IP is.



Thanks.
 
Identify a couple of what you feel are the *tuff* spots and try the FP on them .. it will give you an idea how to handle the rest of the car. If the FP doesn't do much you will know to use the IP on those areas.



I have no experience with paint *cleansers* but I think with the polishing and the AIO .. its prolly rather clean.
 
Doing more research, it seems most people agree the AIO is a good *cleaner*.



So, start with the FP...if it doesn't remove the swirls, step it up to the IP. I'm assuming then, that the IP isn't so aggresive that you can't do the whole car with it if it's bad enough. I saw that people rated the IP as an intermediate step. I'll try that.



Another question. I'm starting to understand the steps here.



Could I do IP, FP, AIO, then Vinilla Moose...then P21S? I believe the Vinilla Moose from ClearKote would act similar to the Klasse SG correct?
 
I found that IP is still pretty mild with a PC. Before you start with the IP, buy a quart of rubbing alcohol at your pharmacy and mix up a 50/50 solution of alcohol and water in a spray bottle. This will help a lot getting subborn IP residues off. You might also consider using the blue painters tape to mask off any areas you DON'T want IP spatters to go. Yes, even a PC can spatter, considering this will be your first machine polish - its easy to load up the pads too much. Another point, make sure you have at least 3 cutting and 3 polishing pads, (what the heck, its YOUR money I'M spending :D ) and 3 finishing pads. Lightly spritz a clean dry pad with a QD like EO Wipe & Shine to "prime" it, lay down a line of product on the paint then smear it about with the pad, but without power to distribute it over the pad surface, then tur on the polisher WITH THE PAD ON THE PAINT (remember those spatter marks?). Change a pad as soon as you start to see what appears like a chewing gum streak/smear being left behind on the paint - this is an indication your pad is fully loaded with product - you will just be creating more work for yourself trying to wipe them away. Just soak the pad in a bucket of water with some Dawn while you continue to work the car as this will stop the dirty/loaded pad from drying out until you can get to clean them all at the end of the job.



FP is an excellent choice as a Last Step Polish - your paint should squeek when you MF the residue off - an excellent stating point for AIO. You won't need to wash between the FP & AIO as the AIO will clean off any FP you missed during the wipedown. Klasse twins are rubber & plastic friendly. in that they don't leave those ugly smear marks.



You can apply AIO with a finishing pad, but the key is thin layer. Again, use the EO W&S to lightly sprtiz the pad after every TINY dribble of AIO. Do a body panel at a time, then wipe down. You can apply the SG immediately after the AIO, but for this I would use a lightly water dampened MF towel. Again less is more with the SG. Do about half a body panel at a time and wipe off immediately. Depending on temperatue and humidity, wait 1 (hot and dry) to 3 (cool and samp) days before the next layer of SG.
 
I'm just always weary of mixing certain products. I would just stick with the SG but your process seems pretty good, and then toppin with P21S should make the Stang look pretty sweet:up !
 
99SVTCobra said:
Could I do IP, FP, AIO, then Vinilla Moose...then P21S? I believe the Vinilla Moose from ClearKote would act similar to the Klasse SG correct?
Click to expand...



If you really want to do the VM, I dunno if I'd bother with the AIO. VM doesn't (*IMO*) clean as well as AIO, but it's *SORTA* a similar product, functionally speaking. They both clean the paint and provide some protection, though the VM is a bit more abrasive while the AIO seems to have better chemical cleaners. I wouldn't equate VM with KSG. I consider VM to be a "glaze" or (pardon the term :o ) a "cleaner wax", while KSG is a semi-permanent polymer coating (despite the word "glaze" in its name).



I'm using VM/carnauba on one car and the K twins on others. I don't mix and match them or really consider them comparable. Different approaches for different applications.



Guess you'll have to decide whether this detail will be a VM or a Klasse job. I'd go Klasse on a daily driver and VM/carnauba on a garage queen (in fact, that's what I'm doing), but plenty of people are happy using VM/carnauba on their daily drivers, too. Your call.
 
Gonzo said:
Depending on temperatue and humidity, wait 1 (hot and dry) to 3 (cool and samp) days before the next layer of SG.
Click to expand...
So Gonzo in Houston you can wait 1 day before applying another coat of SG. I thought it took a week for the polymers to crosslink, so I've been under the impression to apply a coat each week after I wash:nixweiss . Not tryin to hijack the thread just wanted to throw that in the mix:) .
 
Minimum wait time is 24 hours. I'd do SG layers 1 day apart any time from May 1 to September 30 or maybe 2 days if it is wet but hot, but I'd wait a week December through February and scale it somewhere between in the other months.



Then again, if it wet, I won't be doing any detailing as the vehicles live in the driveway.
 
Lots of good information here...thanks everyone.



So, if I understand this right, for a car that is already swirl free (such as a garage queen)....the VM and P21S wax would be a great combo alone.



But for a car that has swirls that need to be addressed, the Menzerna IP and FP would be a good start, followed up with either 1. VM and P21S, or 2. Klasse AIO and SG followed by P21S.



I think I'm starting to understand how these products work together.
 
99SVTCobra- Yeah, you're getting it :xyxthumbs I will, however, point out that the protection provided by the Klasse twins can be pretty incredible. Even garage queens come out now and then, and bird bombs, etc. can be pretty damaging so it might be worth thinking about.



But yeah, the VM/wax combo looks great. And if you pick up some marring that's beyond the VM, the Menzerna polishes work fine before VM.
 
Gonzo said:
Minimum wait time is 24 hours. I'd do SG layers 1 day apart any time from May 1 to September 30 or maybe 2 days if it is wet but hot, but I'd wait a week December through February and scale it somewhere between in the other months.



Then again, if it wet, I won't be doing any detailing as the vehicles live in the driveway.
Click to expand...

Thanks man:up
 
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