Proper PC technique

[Figz]

Question for all the PC experts out there. As far as the use of this machine (which I don't have yet, but will soon get) goes I beleive that I will want to apply 3M SMR with the yellow cutting pad because my swirls appear to be pretty rough. My question now is the proper application and buffing technique. Do you move the buffer itself in a left to right fashion only, up and down, a combination of this, or is it not that important? Other question is, how do you know when you have worked in SMR enough on a given panel? It seems that if you work it in too much with the machine it eventually dry on you and you end off buffing off the SMR possibly adding scratches or removing paint. Also, what is the recommended interval for using the application and buffing pads? Use the buffing and application pads once for the entire car, then through away? Can you reuse or wash any of the pads if you have used them before. I wouldn't imagine that you could reuse the application pads, but it seems that you might be able to wash and or dust off the buffing pads. Sorry for the long and tedious questions, but I don't want to make the car any worse because I wasn't sure about a couple of seemingly small details.



Thanks.



Tom

94 VW Corrado

86 Jetta coupe

 

[Brad B]

Keep the surface very well "lubed" up. It is hard to use too much. You can't do damage by using too much. (Just a mess.) You can do damage by not using enough. Never run the surface dry. This will run the surface too hot, can cause scratches and will cause damage.



It is best to be very methodical with your buffing pattern. You can repeat any areas that need it but always use overlapping motions don't just go "back and forth" and "back and forth" dead on the same spot. I like to use sort of a sideways "L" shaped motion. Use a long motion then bring it towards you 4-5" then go back. Move slowly. After 3-4 passes you should need more material on the pad. Keep it lubed. Let the SMR or FInesse IT do the work.



Angle the trailing edge of the pad about 10 degrees off the surface. Be careful around edges, corners. These have the thinnest amounts of paint on them. Horizontal surfaces have the most. Vertical surfaces are in between.



Wash pads after use. You can hand wash or do them in a machine with cold water and liquid dish soap.

 

[dengelson]

I try to go up and down on the sides and front to back on top. However there are times when I don't follow those directions, like just below the door's window I usually go front to back to get complete coverage. That won't hurt anything. Mainly you want to keep the PC moving in flowing motion.



Another alternative to SMR on the yellow pad is FI II on the white pad followed by SMR on the white pad. You can experiment to see what works best but for heavier scratches I would pick up some FI II as well as SMR.



When I start off with fresh SMR on the pad I usually smear a wipe or two of the product, on the area that where I'll be working, before turning the PC on. That helps to distribute the product more evenly.



Start off with medium to firm pressure with the PC on speed 5. Then work the SMR back and forth with overlapping strokes. Keep working on this region until the product starts to dry a little then lighten the pressure, to just the weight of the machine, and make another pass over the whole region. The last pass nearly eliminates the SMR making it more transparent.



Personally I like to remove products by hand with a MicroFiber Towel. The PC will work but the surface area of a bonnet isn't very large and should be change frequently if used for buffing.



I hand wash my foam applicator in my laundry sink with Dawn and warm water. First I squeeze the applicators under water to work the soapy mixture into the foam then I let them sit for a half hour or so. Next I work the soap in and out a couple more times then rinse them thoroughly with clean water, wring them out and allow them to air dry.