procedure help!!

P

paralyzer777

New member
As the title says....I need your opinion on what products I need to get the following car up to par like it needs to be. It is a show car and keep in mind the previous owner didn't take care of it like it should have been. I bought the car completely stock and did all the mods you see on the car myself. Please take a look at the pictures and let me know what I should do for it. I have a PC 7336 right now and some Meg pads but they are old and broken down so I need to get some more so tell me what I need to get. I do have some products already and would rather not list them all but if someone post up something I think may be similar I will post up to ask. On with the pics:



IMG_1267.jpg


IMG_1266.jpg


IMG_1263.jpg


IMG_1257.jpg


IMG_1258.jpg


IMG_1256.jpg


IMG_1253.jpg




and some over spray....not sure how it got there....

IMG_1254.jpg
 
paralyzer777- Welcome to Autopia!



That marring looks pretty severe; if I were fixing it with a PC I'd get a small backing plate and use 4" pads. I'd use an orange (light cutting) pad for most of the work and then switch to a green or white (polishing) pad for the final pass(es).



There are a zillion different ways you could go product-wise...you know what they say about opinions ;) Mine follow:



I always recommend 1Z brand polishes for people just starting to get serious about this stuff. They're incredibly user-friendly and they are effective. Not just for beginners either; I use them myself. I'd top with Collinite brand wax.



Sources: Welcome to Exceldetail.com! or Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing, Auto Detailing Supplies, Auto Detailing Equipment, Auto Detailing Products, & Auto Detailing Accessories for all your Automobile Detailing



After you get it all polished/waxed, try to get your wash/etc. regimen sorted out so it doesn't get marred up again. Washing without marring is harder than many people would ever imagine, but having a LSP (Last Step Product, i.e., "wax") that sheds dirt readily will help a lot (one more reason to use Collinite).
 
I just ordered some 5.5" ccs pads and 5.5." lake country orange foam pads from autogeek due to the sale they had on them. I have some meg's #80, #82, NXT, and some poorboy polishes. I also have some Klasse polish and AIO. So I was wondering as well if anything I have now could be used and be happy with it without spending more money on products. Can anyone tell me....
 
I enjoy making white shine. It’s a pain in the pigment to get right, but when it’s done and done right, people will comment on how they’ve never seen a white car so bright.

I like bigger pads on solid colors (especially white with low refractive/reflective properties) … awwwh, what the heck, I just like bigger pads in general, in my opinion, you get more cleaning/polishing per pass, especially when overlapping heavily. Products choices are quite subjective, but if you’re new to the game and you like what this site has provided with advice, try the Sonus package too. It’s good stuff for beginners and pros alike. If memory serves, there’s a coupon for discounts this month too!

My preference for white is to use a three step, three-pad process (as outlined in detail on this site), and finish with multiple layers of P21S wax. If you can put the car away for 4 to 5 days without use, then apply the second coat of P21S, and do it again 4 to 5 days after that … when you’re done with the last coat… the wax will have had time to cure and the white will have a depth like you couldn’t have dreamed white could produce.

I find solid colors (especially black & white) do exceptionally well with this technique. Don’t forget to use the right microfiber buffing & drying towels between steps.

Whatever you do … please follow-up with your procedures and result pictures.

Good Luck!
 
You've gotten great advice.. I'm new to the Machine business myself.



It doesn't look as 'severe' as some say imho. It is typical marring/swirls.. Though I would go in with a medium cut polish on a small panel 1x1, 2x2 or so.. polish it in well -- Take some good lighting on it, and see what you've accomplished for the blemishes.. If that is adequate, do the car with it. If it doesn't work, up the speed of the DA, or change to a more abrasive pad. If not go -- Then move up to a heavier cut polish,.. I get the impression it is much better to use the least abrasion you can for your results , and testing in a small area is the way to go, then moving up in speed and pad before changing polish is the preferred method on a new paint correction, for a non professional anyway.



As for your products --You shouldn't have to buy anything -- your polishes should work -- Just read up on them to see what is the most intensive and what is finishing type.



The overspray might require a little more grit.. but the mar/swirls shouldn't be a problem, that is what your DA is for :)



The cure process and layering over 4-5 days is a great idea,.. Works well with certain products.



As for NXT,.. I would recommend (if you are going to use this) -- Get the 2.0 version if what you currently have is the 1.0. It is quite a remarkable difference in most peoples opinions and at minimum is more durable.



Just remember, Wash, clay, wash (or wipe well), polish (however many steps/polishes it takes) -- Glaze, seal (NXT is a sealant) then wax (The next does both). Just depends on your products.



The car looks good, and you should be able to make it look exceptional with some love and time.
 
well what about these steps:



Megs #80(speed Glaze) with orange pad

Megs NXT(wax/sealant) with black pad

Duragloss #105 (TPP) with Blue pad (for duarability)

Duragloss Aquawax wipe down after 12 hours



just trying to get a plan layed out to kinda go by.....let me know if this is the wrong order.
 
I would recommend starting with the basic wash and clay. By the look of the pics, you will likely need something more aggressive then #80 as it is only lightly abrasive and will do some filling (not a bad thing, but the fillers will wear of with time).



I would recommend something like Optimum Compound or 4 Star Body Shop's Medium Cut Compound. I would start using an Orange LC pad on speed 6 and if you need more correction, step up to a yellow. Follow up with a polish such as Optimum Polish and a white pad to get rid of any micro marring left by the compound.



Once you are happy with the finish, I would recommend a sealant like Jeff Werskstatt as I have heard great things about how it looks on light colors. If you don't want to go with a sealant and are on more of a budget, I would recommend 845IW for good looks and great durability. I would also follow up either of those products with Aquawax as I have had great results with it!



Good luck!



-Frank
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top