For those who have reported problems, trouble or a lot of effort buffing Klasse SG after applying, how long do you typically wait to buff? The reason why I am asking is that I recently purchased the 33 oz size after reading good stuff about it's durability, but while waiting for the order to arrive, I kind of got apprehensive to use it after reading about problems with it's removal. So much that I purchased UPP during the time that I was waiting for my order to arrive and have even considered ordering FK 2180.
I did a test application on our family van this past weekend. It had previously been waxed with NXT Tech only. I prepped with AIO and followed up with SG applied with a MF foam applicator with a mist of Eagle One WWS per the directions from properautocare.com. At first, I was surprised at how liquidy it came out of the container. Much thinner than AIO and I think I probably got too much on the pad just to do the hood of the van. But I applied anyways and figured that I would have to get the Sonus Acrylic Spritz ready to buff. I tried to apply very thin and in overlapping motions to try to make sure I got even coverage. I could see the product going on, so I figured that I was applying WAY too much product. Next time I will be ready for how thin SG is.
Anyways, I left it to dry for about an hour under shade at about 80 degrees. I got my buffing MF and the Sonus ready and started to buff. There was a slight haze and it came right off! No trouble and didn't need the Sonus to remove it all without leaving any streaks. I was of course pleasantly surprised as I was expecting a LOT of trouble because I applied it too thick. I followed up by applying the Sonus anyways and then pulled the van into the sun and didn't see any haze. I did notice some minor swirls that I didn't notice prior to AIO/SG. I assume that the NXT was concealing it. It stormed the next day and I noticed that the hood was beading up in smaller and tighter beads than the roof that had only NXT on it.
Please be assured that I am NOT bragging or anything of the sort. Just trying to learn more about SG and learn from the experience of those who use it. I am just very surprised that I didn't encounter the nightmare of removing by applying too thick. I had intended on applying VERY thin, but the consistency of SG was much thinner than I thought and more came out on the applicator pad than I had wanted. Again, I was ready for a tough removal, but nothing. I also read that they recommend waiting even as much as overnight to remove. I waited for an hour at about 80 degrees. Is the temperature the key? I also applied by misting the MF applicator with QD as recommended by properautocare.com. Is that the key? Is there something that I am missing? Is there a haze remaining on the paint that I am not noticing and that's the tough part to remove? It looked fine to me. No haze and good shine. The paint could use a light polish, but not dullness or haze. Or is the use of QD to mist the MF applicator the key? Or have you tried that and still had a tough time removing? This experience didnt' seem any tougher than removing AIO, UPP or EXP.
So before I go looking for another polymer sealant with approximately equal durability with easier application & removal (like 2180 or FMJ) to use instead of SG, I want to know more about those of you who had rough experiences with removal of SG. Like I said, I already got another LSP before I even received my order due to the postings on how tough SG is to remove. In fact, I was ready to try the dilution of SG to use a QD and move on to another sealant.
Thanks.
I did a test application on our family van this past weekend. It had previously been waxed with NXT Tech only. I prepped with AIO and followed up with SG applied with a MF foam applicator with a mist of Eagle One WWS per the directions from properautocare.com. At first, I was surprised at how liquidy it came out of the container. Much thinner than AIO and I think I probably got too much on the pad just to do the hood of the van. But I applied anyways and figured that I would have to get the Sonus Acrylic Spritz ready to buff. I tried to apply very thin and in overlapping motions to try to make sure I got even coverage. I could see the product going on, so I figured that I was applying WAY too much product. Next time I will be ready for how thin SG is.
Anyways, I left it to dry for about an hour under shade at about 80 degrees. I got my buffing MF and the Sonus ready and started to buff. There was a slight haze and it came right off! No trouble and didn't need the Sonus to remove it all without leaving any streaks. I was of course pleasantly surprised as I was expecting a LOT of trouble because I applied it too thick. I followed up by applying the Sonus anyways and then pulled the van into the sun and didn't see any haze. I did notice some minor swirls that I didn't notice prior to AIO/SG. I assume that the NXT was concealing it. It stormed the next day and I noticed that the hood was beading up in smaller and tighter beads than the roof that had only NXT on it.
Please be assured that I am NOT bragging or anything of the sort. Just trying to learn more about SG and learn from the experience of those who use it. I am just very surprised that I didn't encounter the nightmare of removing by applying too thick. I had intended on applying VERY thin, but the consistency of SG was much thinner than I thought and more came out on the applicator pad than I had wanted. Again, I was ready for a tough removal, but nothing. I also read that they recommend waiting even as much as overnight to remove. I waited for an hour at about 80 degrees. Is the temperature the key? I also applied by misting the MF applicator with QD as recommended by properautocare.com. Is that the key? Is there something that I am missing? Is there a haze remaining on the paint that I am not noticing and that's the tough part to remove? It looked fine to me. No haze and good shine. The paint could use a light polish, but not dullness or haze. Or is the use of QD to mist the MF applicator the key? Or have you tried that and still had a tough time removing? This experience didnt' seem any tougher than removing AIO, UPP or EXP.
So before I go looking for another polymer sealant with approximately equal durability with easier application & removal (like 2180 or FMJ) to use instead of SG, I want to know more about those of you who had rough experiences with removal of SG. Like I said, I already got another LSP before I even received my order due to the postings on how tough SG is to remove. In fact, I was ready to try the dilution of SG to use a QD and move on to another sealant.
Thanks.