Problem with polishing with PC

R

Rudamous

New member
Okay so this morning I got up around 10. Went to pick up a friend and drop him off. Got some chickfila then I got cracking. Day started off bad. I washed car but then the dang sun started to dry it so I dried as fast as I could with the new Sonus WW which worked good. Then I clayed the hood and brought the car into the garage.



I got the PC with green pad and applied the #9 Swirl mark remover. I worked that in good and buffed off with difficulty. I actually had to use some QD to help me get the polish off. Rolled car into the sun...I could tell almost no difference at all.

I figured it is time to me up to the #83 DACP. I worked that in buffed off then pulled out. Looked better. So I did it again this time and worked it out longer untill it started to "dust". Came off fairly easy. Now the swirl marks look as though they arent bad but I have a hazy buffer marks which I plan to go get off next and check it out but before I take a step down I have a problem.

The problem is that I have spots on my hood still that look attrocious. I can barley even look for swirls with the spots. The spots were there before but I figured they were just acid etching/water spots or something of that nature that would come off. Why are these not coming out even when working in the DACP good? Here is a picture of the spots of which I am talking about.



http://www.villagephotos.com/pubgallery.asp?id_=918904



The only area I was working on was the top left of hood. The center that is white it where the polish was dusting
 
It's very hard to tell what that is from that particular picture. Is there any way you can a real close-up shot of the spots and post them here in your gallery?



Can you feel the spots with your fingernail or are they smooth like the rest of the hood?



Also, you may want to make a pass with the DACP and a cutting pad to knock down those swirls a little quicker and then come back with a second pass with the green pad again.
 
just two, sorry for the RE but I posted it in reply to the first post I started but then I figured I'd put it as a question here because it might be more specific honed towards this area.
 
Watermarks can be difficult . . . I'd try something more abrasive in conjunction with a cutting pad. On a side note, these may require a rotary. Good luck :up
 
Well today officially bombed. I got started off bad. I think I probably put in about 2 hours polishing the hood of my car with the PC. Started with green pad and #9...did nothing for swirls or the water etching. Moved on to green pad with DACP A little improvement but swirls were still BAD. Moved on to the orange pad and DACP and I think it is starting to look good but I will have to wait untill tomorrow to get a good look at it in the sun.

My main problem today was our garage door's spring snapped last week. So I had to get my sister help me open garage and latch it open. But my dad made me run an errand and I was the only one home so I had to back out my car and close garage and with no assistance and disabled springs & cables on two car garage door I couldn't open it again. Hopefully tomorrow will prove better luck. I really don't want to have to go any more abrassive than DACP.

I didn't know the water etching was so hard to get out. That makes me so sad

:( . There no way I am gonna be able to get that stuff out of my paint. It is always gonna look like crap I guess. I am already scared I am going to mess up my paintjob which is known to be kind of slack, let alone having to go deeper or get someone to use a rotary :( :wall

Sorry if I sound like im whining, but I had to vent
 
Rudamous said:
Well today officially bombed. ........ Moved on to the orange pad and DACP and I think it is starting to look good but I will have to wait untill tomorrow to get a good look at it in the sun........ but I had to vent
Click to expand...

Don't be too hard on yourself, it takes time to know which polish/pad to use on different finishes and defects.



Here's a tip on using #83 (DACP), work a small area (2 x 2) at a time, use a fast PC speed (5-6), use very slow arm passes, and I like to work the #83 until it pretty much dusts away. It's not unusual to have to make 3-4 passes with a PC to get the results you're looking for. If you can feel the etch marks with your fingernail then you may not be able to get them out, or you'll thin your clear too much in the process.



As far as lighting goes you can use something as simple as a trouble light (with a single light bulb), a small lamp, or even a flashlight. The key is to get it the right distance from the paint and look at different angles to catch the defects in the right light.



Hang in there, you may not get it perfect, but you should get it looking better. If you post your location there may be a member in your area who could take a look and give you a hand.



Be careful with those garage springs! If they are the kind that is coiled up around a shaft they can be dangerous.
 
First of all you are starting multiple threads on the same topic. I posted yesterday in a thread of yours about this exact same thing.



You have 39 posts and should be asking your questions in the Autopia University Forum.



Like I said yesterday you probably have water spot etching. This can be one of the most difficult problems to correct. Depending how long the minerals were left on the paint the etching can be very deep. If you were to look at the spot under magnification you would see a crater in the paint. The only way to correct this is to level the paint with an abrasive. This can take a lot of work with a PC and may require (probably does) a rotary. Even the rotary might not be enough if the etching is through to the base coat.
 
Aight decided it was time to fill the update. Almost all the swirls have been removed from my hood, roof, and trunk. What I ended up doing is going orange pad with DACP slowly over area and working it in. Then after buffing that off the green pad with Megs swirl mark remover to clean up the paint and smooth it out. I don't know if I will have the time to get the vertical panels so I might end up having to wax my car and then come back to them another time unfortunately. It took SEVERAL good hours of polishing with the PC. The hardest part was probably figuiring out the right combination for the work. I guess it gets easier with time but you just have to work the buffer so long.

I have before pics and will be posting befores and afters in the click & brag forum but before I put the wax on I wanted to ask is there away to remove water marks with Vinegar? I think I remember something about that, guess I'll do a search...
 
Rudamous,



If the water spots have not yet etched the paint, then vinegar may prove useful in removing the minerals attached to the paint surface. If the spots have etched (as what you've been describing on your own paint), they're past the point that vinegar will help; once the paint itself has been damaged, you'll have to resort to an abrasive to correct it.



Tort
 
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