Problem w/Poorboys

S

shopking68

too many cars....
I bought some PB SSR3 and Polish also. I used the SSR3 on my 96 Impala, and it came out horrible, it left streaks and made my paint feel rough and not very smooth, my hood of my car looks horrible, and I guess I need to know if I did anything wrong.

I was using a PC buffer, with a yellow foam pad with SSR3 and it was set on speed 2.5 I think.

thanks

Wes
 
What kind of problem was you trying to correct using SSR3? Do you have any SSR2.5 to follow up with? SSR3 is some strong stuff, but if used correctley there shouldn't be a problem.
 
I am in not as proficient as others in the group yet feel that part of the problem is the speed. Spreading the polish at 2-3 is fine, but then you need to kick it up to 6 for the polishing. You buff until it appears the polish has disappeared. There may be slight dusting.

I'll also say that I have never used SSR3 but only the SSR2.5.

Good luck,
 
Bellydawg said:
I am in not as proficient as others in the group yet feel that part of the problem is the speed. Spreading the polish at 2-3 is fine, but then you need to kick it up to 6 for the polishing. You buff until it appears the polish has disappeared. There may be slight dusting.
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I would agree completely about the polishing speed. Also, SSR3 is not a finishing polish, and is actually quite abrasive for use with a PC alone. I would suggest following up with a milder polish, such as something along the lines of SSR2.5 and following that with something like SSR1.
 
SSR3 is very agressive especially when applied with an aggressive pad also. You should follow with SSR 2.5, then perhaps 2 and then 1 to finish.
 
shopking68 said:
I bought some PB SSR3 and Polish also. I used the SSR3 on my 96 Impala, and it came out horrible, it left streaks and made my paint feel rough and not very smooth, my hood of my car looks horrible, and I guess I need to know if I did anything wrong.

I was using a PC buffer, with a yellow foam pad with SSR3 and it was set on speed 2.5 I think.

thanks

Wes
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Who suggested using SSR3 to you? As previously stated this is a very strong compound as you probably felt the grit when you open it. The first line on the back of the label states, "SSR3 is a Professional grade heavy duty abrasive." You would have to have some serious problems with your finish for that combo. If you are also talking about a yellow Lake country pad (cutting pad) then this combination would only be used after sanding a car with 1200 wet/dry sand paper and never with a pc. Most swirls and scratches that can come out with a pc should be used with SSR2.5 and either a polishing pad (white) or light cut pad (orange). Those who do use SSR3 with a pc should only use a polishing pad(white) and at a speed of at least 5.5-6, which is needed to let the product break down and work. For the most part SSR3 should be used by Professionals with a rotary.

Now to fix your problem, you will need to use SSR2.5 with a polishing pad or light cutting pad and then followed with a polishing pad if you have done some serious damage. Then I would follow up with either SSR1 or Pro Polish for the final polishing and gloss enhancement. You can also e-mail me or call me (845-627-5907) if you need to be walked through this.
 
UH, the pads say not to go over 2100rpm or some thing like that, so I kept it slow. But thanks for all the advice. I guess I need to order some 2.5 instead and speed up my polisher a bit.

I ordered all my pads from Autogeek, they are the Edge 2000 pads.
 
BLUELINE 1 said:
What kind of problem was you trying to correct using SSR3? Do you have any SSR2.5 to follow up with? SSR3 is some strong stuff, but if used correctley there shouldn't be a problem.
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I had some real bad swirls and scratches and hard water spots on my trunk. So I figured I needed the most hardest stuff to get that stuff off... But I guess not.
 
shopking68 said:
UH, the pads say not to go over 2100rpm or some thing like that, so I kept it slow. But thanks for all the advice. I guess I need to order some 2.5 instead and speed up my polisher a bit.

I ordered all my pads from Autogeek, they are the Edge 2000 pads.
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That's 2100 RPM on a rotary machine (that's blazing by the way). You can likely run the pads on setting 5 all day long on a PC and the occasional 6 shouldn't be a problem. I don't like to run my equipment at their maximum limit all the time. You still don't want to use the aggressive combination that you had chosen. I personally only use SSR 3 with a rotary.

The best rule of thumb, at least in my opinion is to start with the least aggressive pad/polish combination you can get by with. When I say this I'm not suggesting you use a finish pad with a moderate amount of swirls though at times going this route is surprising. If after a couple of passes you're not seeing the desired result step up a notch on one or the other (pad, polish). Remember if you make the jump in both polish and pad at the same time the difference in cutting ability of the combination is usually significant.
 
Autogeek has 2 really good videos on how to use a PC, I think you should check them out and then give it another try. Also, properautocare.com has some easy, step by step instructions for PC and Rotary use.
 
I've only had to use SSR3 once, and I was very cautious with it. I'd follow what Steve(Poorboy) said. There isn't much that SSR2.5 shouldn't be able to correct. Just chalk it up as a learning experience and move on from there.
 
shopking68 said:
thanks, So how should I start over, my hood looks worst before I started, what should I start with?

I bought this stuff along with my SSR3

poorboysworld.com
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Go back to post #6 ^^^^^ and then use the PwC that you bought after you have removed the swirls and damage...
 
Don't feel bad. Many do not admit that they feel dumb but if truth be told we all have been at one time or another. Feeling dumb is part of the process. The best thing about feeling dumb is that it is just a feeling. You are learning. That is a good thing!! It will soon be something from the past.
 
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