Prepping Paint (dawn wash or not)

4details2win

New member
I just got my PC 7424 in and I'm ready to start. A month ago I dawn washed clayed then applied Zaino Z2pro on my car. I've got the Propel pads orange, yellow, green, blue & grey.



Do I need to dawn wash my car again to remove the layers of Z2 I already have on the paint before polishing or can I just start the polishing process?



In my arsenal I've got Optimum Compound, Optimum polish and Mothers pre-wax cleaner. I've got light swirl marks and water spots on my paint except for a few spots where there are deeper scratches which is why I bought the compound.



After polishing to a perfect finish I was planning on using Mothers pre-wax cleaner and then using Z2 pro topped off with Nattys Blue. Is a pre-wax cleaner necessary? My car is 3 years old but I've kept it in really good condition.



Thanks
 
No you di not need to use dawn again. The polishes you mentioned will remove the Zaino. Im not sure if the Mothers would cause any bonding issues. I would just go OP then Z2pro.
 
You'll get two different answers on the dish soap thing. Purist (I'm in that camp) would rather use a product made to strip wax while others will say dawn is as effective and it's cheap.



Polishing will remove old wax, but depending on what's on there and how many layers of it, your likely to waste the first couple of passes while getting the polish off.



While a Pre-wax cleaner isn't necessary, you'll want some way to make sure you've gotten all the polish residue off the panels b4 sealing/waxing to prevent streaking. Wiping alone sometimes don't cut it.



I would say if you clayed and stripped the wax a month ago you shouldn't need to do so again at least not to remove the old wax.



As to whether or not you'll need to clay again will depend alot on the environment your area has been experiencing over the month. Up here with the road salt and all I wouldn't risk polishing again till I knew off the winter gunk was off the panels.
 
Dawn couldn't even remove NXT the last time I used it. A polish or paint cleaner is a much more effective way to remove any wax or sealant.
 
Thanks for the help. I'll do the plastic bag test to see if it needs claying. However I'm almost definate it wont need it. Down here in Louisiana winter is pretty much nonexistent so I can wash my car year round.
 
If/when you want to compromise a LSP prior to polishing, I'd just use some diluted rubbing alcohol (IPA). But I'd also think twice before trying that on something like old lacquer, IPA is a mild solvent, but some paints shouldn't be exposed to *any* solvents if you can avoid it. On modern B/C, I wouldn't worry.
 
Accumulator, how do you go about applying the IPA? Do use a foam pad or MF towel. I have never done this and just curious how you do it.
 
I've done it two ways, with basically equal results but differing convenience.



1) Spray it on with a spray bottle and wipe with MF or 2) just pour on MF and wipe. I suspect the former method is better as it will dwell on the surface longer but both seem to work fine.



It doesn't take much effort to compromise the LSP, and that's usually all you really need to do (as opposed to cleaning it completely off in a perfectly uniform manner) as you'll usually be polishing/etc. afterwards anyhow.
 
If you are going to continue with the Zaino system after polishing there is no need to "re-strip". Just polish. If you are really anal like myself and live in a temperate climate, just pull the vehicle out of the garage and rinse down with water. This will remove any polishing particulate residue on surface and in nocks-and-crannies. After careful drying and inspection, QD with Z6 and re-apply your Z2PRO/ZFX.

If you are using OP polish and the Mother's paint cleaner (probably not necessary after OP), a minimum of an IPA wipedown and Z6 QD will set the stage for maximal Zaino bonding with or without the rinse down.



Do not top the Z2PRO with anything oil or solvent-based (i.e Natty's) except Z8 and Z6 for at least a week. This will allow the Zaino to properly cross-link, bond to surface and cure. After that everything if fair game. ;)



Take you time and enjoy the experience. :clap:
 
IPA is isopropyl alcohol--plain old rubbing alcohol you can buy at any store. I just use it straight from the bottle and don't dilute it.
 
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