pre-soak

southerndetail

southerndetail

New member
So I have been using the same type of soap that is used in a laser wash(touchless) in my foamer lately. I have had some pretty good results. What I do is foam the entire car including tires, wheel wells, and rims, scrub the the rims and by the time I'm done scrubing I start the rinse. I rinse from the bottom to the top(as not to wash the product off), it doesn't get it clean enough to justify not doing anything else though. What I do is use a SW and an Absorber to dry, the results are very good. It cuts the time of a full service wash from 45 min to 30 min, and in these times I'm out to do more with the time I'm given. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
 
southerndetail said:
So I have been using the same type of soap that is used in a laser wash(touchless) in my foamer lately. I have had some pretty good results. What I do is foam the entire car including tires, wheel wells, and rims, scrub the the rims and by the time I'm done scrubing I start the rinse. I rinse from the bottom to the top(as not to wash the product off), it doesn't get it clean enough to justify not doing anything else though. What I do is use a SW and an Absorber to dry, the results are very good. It cuts the time of a full service wash from 45 min to 30 min, and in these times I'm out to do more with the time I'm given. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
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Are you rewaxing after this? Because most of those touchless washes are very heavy in degreasers and other products that will strip the wax off your car. It's how they clean so well without touching.
 
I have to disagree the way they clean is by using Alkolines(sp), I haven't noticed any stripping. Most of these cars are repeat clients and week after week the water is still beading.
 
As I said, I maintain the majority of the cars I use this method on. It's been about a month and a half (3-5 washes)and the water is still beading like the day I waxed it. Also I use SW everytime I dry, I know SW isn't really durable but it helps.
 
I guess a lot of it would depend on the concentration. I know my buddy has a touchless and in the winter he pumps up the concentration to help get the salt off easier.
 
southerndetail said:
As I said, I maintain the majority of the cars I use this method on. It's been about a month and a half (3-5 washes)and the water is still beading like the day I waxed it. Also I use SW everytime I dry, I know SW isn't really durable but it helps.
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SW being?????
Spray Wax? :confused:
 
I might be mistaken, but for some reason I thought that the touchless washes first used an acidic wash followed by an alkaline wash and then the rinse. I'm not in that business so I am not certain about the makeup of those chemicals. Is your distributor providing you the product information verbally or back-up materials?
 
Mr. Clean said:
I might be mistaken, but for some reason I thought that the touchless washes first used an acidic wash followed by an alkaline wash and then the rinse. I'm not in that business so I am not certain about the makeup of those chemicals. Is your distributor providing you the product information verbally or back-up materials?
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The warning from Honda said that. Hydroflouric acid to be exact.
 
touchless.gif
 
The reason I was confused is your statement that "it doesn't get it clean enough to justify not doing anything else though."
southerndetail said:
it doesn't get it clean enough to justify not doing anything else though. What I do is use a SW and an Absorber to dry, the results are very good.
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Do you feel comfortable using a spray wax and an Absorber on paint that isn't clean?
Dumb question since that's what you do. :)
 
I haven't noticed any problems, I should probably go to a WW for drying though, just for some extra security. The paint isn't noticably dirty to the consumers eye, though you can tell thw cleanliness by the windows, The SW adds more of a shine if anything.
 
Mr. Clean said:
I might be mistaken, but for some reason I thought that the touchless washes first used an acidic wash followed by an alkaline wash and then the rinse. I'm not in that business so I am not certain about the makeup of those chemicals. Is your distributor providing you the product information verbally or back-up materials?
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I am not sure on the chemical make up in the soap but, it has to be strong stuff. How would a soap, pre soak soap, work as well as it does if its not "strong" I avoid all outside washes period. The wash places don't care about stripping as long as the car is clean. I have several guys here that make soap, spray wases, for automated car washes. They just smile when you ask if it strips wax. If it takes the salt and sand off and cleans the car it must be potent. We all talk about "dawn" here, a pre soak with dawn will not do what a car wash will, pressure or no pressure.:inspector::inspector:
 
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