Practicing for Final Exam (DUW)

2

2002 Maxima SE

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Final Exam: 2002 Black Maxima SE



We have a 1993 Mercury Sable, which has only been washed/cleaner/wax by moi once a year (washing a few times a year). For our anniversary, my wife got me a PC 7336SP. I don't have Sonus pads yet, but will be ordering soon. With just a few tools at my disposal, tell me how I did:





Trunk only:

1 white PC pad

Dawn Wash

Apply Mequiars #1 Cleaner (left side only, by hand)

Apply Mequiars #2 Polish (left side only)

Apply 3M Swirl Remover Glaze for Dark Cars (right side only)

Apply PUPP to both sides (by hand)



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Recommendations:



I like PUPP, easy on easy off...but what type of polish/glaze should I try? Trying to work from least aggressive to most aggressive before working on my Max.
 
My favorite polishes are the SSRs.

Be careful about leaning your PC handle on the paint, you might end up adding some new scratches. And make sure you don't take those bottles off the ground (dirt/gravel included) and set those down on the car.



The flakes look clearer on the polished side. None of the car really looks all that bad IMO.
 
Thanks! I've been doing it by hand...albeit not that often. The roof/sides look worse than the pictures show.



I'm going to order the Poorboys:



SSR2 and 2.5. What do you recommend for a finish? (EX-P or EX)? Can I put PUPP on after EX/EX-P?
 
I'd stick with the PUPP after the SSRs. AFAIK, PUPP and 4* UPP are the same thing under a different name, and I've always liked how UPP looks on any color. Maybe top that with Nattys.
 
You're definitely going to need more/better pads and a wider array of products if you want to successfully pass your final exam with anything higher than a B-. You would benefit far more from using all of the preparatory steps via machine, and using quality towels to buff (not old sweatpants or shirts). It is also my opinion that it will take you a while to practice and perfect your technique with the PC before you will be able to work the black effectively.



Looks good so far, keep up the learning!
 
Thanks Shiny



The 1993 has brand new paint on the hood...3 to 4 year old paint on the rear fender and 12 year old paint on the rest of the car. Its the perfect mutt to perfect my technique. I'm ordering the DAS kit, SSR2.5 and SSR2 (is there any reason to buy SSR1?) and some MF towels. I figure, after a few weekends of working on the 1993, I should be able to graduate to my wifes Silver 2004 Forester XT (much more forgiving than my black 2002).



Once the 1993 looks like new, I'll be ready to start working on my 2002. :)



Would the preferred steps be:

Wash/Clay/Wash

SSR2.5 with Orange pad

SSR2 with Green pad

AIO with Green pad

PUPP with Blue pad

Buff with Bonnet

(MF between steps to get dust off)
 
I haven't seen a need to get any SSR1. I have SSR3, 2.5, and 2. Since I have other light polishes like GEPC, I don't have a need for SSR1.



Where are you ordering from?



You may not need the orange pad for your first step. Use 2.5 with a green pad and see if that works for you. If not, move up to the more aggressive orange pad.



Also, 4* UPP is really thin, and I assume PUPP also is. I prefer to apply thin products like VM and UPP by hand, since a lot of the product gets absorbed into the pad. With a PC pad, there's a lot of room for the product to be absorbed, and it ends up being wasted.
 
Hi WhiteMax,



Thanks, good point about the PUPP. It goes on very, very thin and comes off extremely easy. I may apply that by hand and remove with the bonnet. Does everything else sound right (does AIO come after the polish?).



I'm going to order the SSR directly from poorboys and the DAS kit from here at autopia-carcare.
 
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