Possible to use Menzerna FP by PC?

B

Bioman

New member
Getting cold feet about using FP and a PC together. I am new at using a PC and just orered the full line of Menzerna products to detail my car. So I was wondering can it be done by PC effectively? Someone said on another thread that FP & IP were meant to be used by rotary. True?



Should I use something other than IP to start with? Like AIO?



Thanks.
 
You can use FP effectively with a PC. Start out around 4.5 tos spread it around some, then crank it up to 6 and work it until almost dry. Wipe off with clean MF and you will hear the apint squeeking - literally. I only use FP as a final polishing step - to burnish the paint - I am not using it for a "cut".



The Menzerna Power Gloss and IP were designed for use with a rotary. I tried IP with a PC and didn't have a satisfying experience, but after moving to a rotary, I'm liking PG and IP more and more.
 
Gonzo said:
You can use FP effectively with a PC. Start out around 4.5 tos spread it around some, then crank it up to 6 and work it until almost dry. Wipe off with clean MF and you will hear the apint squeeking - literally. I only use FP as a final polishing step - to burnish the paint - I am not using it for a "cut".



The Menzerna Power Gloss and IP were designed for use with a rotary. I tried IP with a PC and didn't have a satisfying experience, but after moving to a rotary, I'm liking PG and IP more and more.
Click to expand...



When you have a chance, give FP a try via rotary. You may never

go back to just using a PC
 
Bioman, I use IP and FP exclusively with a PC. A rotary probably can get better results quicker but I'm happy with results with a PC.



Have no fear, they're fool-proof.



I used them to do this Jag, topped with the Autoglym duo.



17477sm_hpim2965.jpg




I posted these instructions on a recent thread to someone else who was concerned.



For IP:

1) Spritz your dry pad once or twice with a QD.

2) Squeeze a generous ring of polish on the pad.

3) With the PC still off, spread the polish on 2x2 area.

4) Set the PC on 3 and spread the polish evenly.

5) Start at one corner of your designated area and, with the PC on 4.5 and medium pressure, move very slowly (1/2' per second) left to right then up and down for one pass. When doing this, you should see the polish liquifying and going clear at the edge of the pad. This indicates that you're moving at the right speed. If you don't see this, slow down and/or add a little more pressure.

6) Turn up the speed to 5.5 and again, slowly, follow the above procedure. By this stage, all the polish should have gone clear and oily.

7) Take off all the weight from the PC and keep working the clear residue for a couple more passes or until virtually gone (at 1' per second).

8) Wipe off residue with a MF. You won't need water or any liquid to achieve this. It should wipe right off and leave the surface glossy and squeeky to touch. It leaves no oil or fillers.

9) Inspect your work to see if all marring removed. If not, repeat the above. All subsequent applications should require half as much polish now that the pad is loaded up. Always work the polish in well.



For FP:

Same as above, except:

1) Use a light polishing or finishing pad.

2) Apply a thin line around the pad once its loaded after the first time - the less the better.

3) Set the PC at 5 after the initial spreading.

4) Only apply the weight of the PC, no more is necessary.

5) Only requires a couple of light passes.

6) Move the PC at 2' per second.

7) If your pad can handle it, crank it up to 6 for the final light burnishing.

8) Stand back with your sunglasses on and admire the glossy finish!



I hope this helps you. :bigups
 
Glad to help a fellow Menzernaphile!



If you have any trouble, revisit this thread and add a post.



We'll do all we can to help you. :)
 
Bioman,



I use IP and FPII with a PC also. I'm still fairly new at the detailing art, but I've had very good results. I use a 50/50 alcohol/water mix spritzed on an MF towel to remove the residue. You can use a dry MF towel, but I find the 50/50 mix to be a bit easier.



IP and FPII are water-based, but I still use a final wash of Zaino Z7 carwash to ensure that all residues are removed before applying Z5 and Z2 (my sealant of choice).



Best of luck,



Dan.
 
I do most of my work now with a rotary and just use the PC in those hard to reach areas where the speed and power of a rotary would be dangerous (my skill level is not "there" yet, but it impoves with every job)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top