No, I don't have the haze! 
(knock on wood) I just thought of a possible new theory as to why some people are/were getting it.
The last couple coats of Klasse SG I have been especially thorough with my removal technique. I use a very fine mist spray bottle filled with water to lightly mist a panel or section. Then I use a folded MF to thoroughly wipe down the area, using some pressure. This seems to wipe it dry and remove all the residue. Then I flip the MF over and, using the dry side, buff the area again very thoroughly with less pressure. This is just how I do it, but I don't have much residue to remove.
I didn't flip it over and re-buff at first because it seemed to remove it all and leave it dry, but I did soon. Why the extra step? It's because I started breathing on the Klasse at first to judge coat coverage. (Breathing on it fogs it up and was originally a removal trick posted some time ago.) Then I realized it was also good for detecting any residue at all, at any time. I soon discovered that even though it looked like I was removing everything with just the mist-wipe with no follow-up buffing, I really wasn't getting 100% of it off. When I breathed on the surface to fog it, it showed very faint hints of streaky residue still left behind. The panel looked perfectly buffed and clean, even with good lighting at various angles, but it actually wasn't on a microscopic scale.
After the follow-up buffing I spot check the area/panel here and there by breathing on it. If I see streaks I go over the whole thing again to be sure. If the fogged area both appears and evaporates evenly and smoothly, with no visible lines or streaks, it's clean and I move on. The best time to judge I found is as it is evaporating, since any residue will retain the moisture longer and will show streaks and highlight wherever the residue is. Try breathing on a buffed (or clean) vs. unbuffed area to see what I mean.
So basically my theory as it relates to Klasse hazing is this: Dry but unbonded and invisible Klasse residue left over from the previous application may be interfering with the next coat.
Now granted, not all hazing problems can be explained by this, such as problems with AIO and single coats, but there are several different kinds of hazing problems people have experienced. The movable "oily" area, the white haze, etc. Just so I don't scare anyone reading, most people don't have any problems at all: haze poll
Most of the time when discussing the haze people go over varibles like what kind of prep, what kind of wash, wet or dry application, thick or thin, temperature, humidity, etc. but don't really say how thoroughly they've removed it or what technique they used.
I am NOT saying ensuring 100% removal in this way will prevent hazing. I don't know. It's just an idea of mine I'd like to put out there.
Sorry for the long post, and sorry if everyone is already doing this and I'm just talking nonsense!
(knock on wood) I just thought of a possible new theory as to why some people are/were getting it.The last couple coats of Klasse SG I have been especially thorough with my removal technique. I use a very fine mist spray bottle filled with water to lightly mist a panel or section. Then I use a folded MF to thoroughly wipe down the area, using some pressure. This seems to wipe it dry and remove all the residue. Then I flip the MF over and, using the dry side, buff the area again very thoroughly with less pressure. This is just how I do it, but I don't have much residue to remove.
I didn't flip it over and re-buff at first because it seemed to remove it all and leave it dry, but I did soon. Why the extra step? It's because I started breathing on the Klasse at first to judge coat coverage. (Breathing on it fogs it up and was originally a removal trick posted some time ago.) Then I realized it was also good for detecting any residue at all, at any time. I soon discovered that even though it looked like I was removing everything with just the mist-wipe with no follow-up buffing, I really wasn't getting 100% of it off. When I breathed on the surface to fog it, it showed very faint hints of streaky residue still left behind. The panel looked perfectly buffed and clean, even with good lighting at various angles, but it actually wasn't on a microscopic scale.
After the follow-up buffing I spot check the area/panel here and there by breathing on it. If I see streaks I go over the whole thing again to be sure. If the fogged area both appears and evaporates evenly and smoothly, with no visible lines or streaks, it's clean and I move on. The best time to judge I found is as it is evaporating, since any residue will retain the moisture longer and will show streaks and highlight wherever the residue is. Try breathing on a buffed (or clean) vs. unbuffed area to see what I mean.
So basically my theory as it relates to Klasse hazing is this: Dry but unbonded and invisible Klasse residue left over from the previous application may be interfering with the next coat.
Now granted, not all hazing problems can be explained by this, such as problems with AIO and single coats, but there are several different kinds of hazing problems people have experienced. The movable "oily" area, the white haze, etc. Just so I don't scare anyone reading, most people don't have any problems at all: haze poll
Most of the time when discussing the haze people go over varibles like what kind of prep, what kind of wash, wet or dry application, thick or thin, temperature, humidity, etc. but don't really say how thoroughly they've removed it or what technique they used.
I am NOT saying ensuring 100% removal in this way will prevent hazing. I don't know. It's just an idea of mine I'd like to put out there.
Sorry for the long post, and sorry if everyone is already doing this and I'm just talking nonsense!