Porsche Windshield rubber protectant
- Thread starter Marj
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Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen-You don't hear about it much here, but Wurth's Rubber Care is good stuff, and it's what my Porsche/Audi dealer (familiar with the older cars) always recommends.
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen said:
I got mine ages ago from a shop owner I know. I'd probably just see if AutoGeek has it, or otherwise google it up and see that way. There's an aerosol version and a "stick" version; I'm thinking of the aerosol. Spray it on something to apply (quickly before the carrier-agents flash off) if you're worried about overspray. The stick stuff is similar to, but slightly better than, the *MUCH* cheaper 1Z brand version.
The 1Z product Accumulator mentions is Gummi Pflege by Einzett. I use it on my door/window rubber on the M coupe to keep the rubber supple and black. My door window glass just butts up against the rubber seal, no window channel. Gummi Pflege does a great job in maintaining the suppleness I need.
I've never used the Wurth product but I'm very pleased with the Einzett product. Quite available too, even in Canada.
I've never used the Wurth product but I'm very pleased with the Einzett product. Quite available too, even in Canada.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Yeah...that's it "Gummi Pflege".
JohnZ4MC-The only diff between the 1Z and the Wurth version is that the Wurth is just a *LITTLE* bit cleaner, barely enough to be my choice when the seals press against glass. Not that the 1Z is really messy/slimy in this regard, but there was a minor diff when I did a side-by-side.
I wonder what *you* would think if you did a direct comparison, given your seal-to-glass contact :think: Heh heh, I bet you're happy enough with the 1Z that you'd have zero interest in spending ~$15 to try the Wurth
And NO, that's not a typo, the Wurth stuff really does cost that much more 
JohnZ4MC-The only diff between the 1Z and the Wurth version is that the Wurth is just a *LITTLE* bit cleaner, barely enough to be my choice when the seals press against glass. Not that the 1Z is really messy/slimy in this regard, but there was a minor diff when I did a side-by-side.
I wonder what *you* would think if you did a direct comparison, given your seal-to-glass contact :think: Heh heh, I bet you're happy enough with the 1Z that you'd have zero interest in spending ~$15 to try the Wurth
And NO, that's not a typo, the Wurth stuff really does cost that much more ^^^ You're a wise man Accumulator. For $15, I think I'll give the Wurth product a pass.
Mind you, I have used a few Wurth products in the past, their silver wheel paint comes to mind, and their products are certainly very high quality.
The more I think about it too, I'm thinking the Wurth product might be the perfect match for the OP's Porsche.
Good call.
Mind you, I have used a few Wurth products in the past, their silver wheel paint comes to mind, and their products are certainly very high quality.
The more I think about it too, I'm thinking the Wurth product might be the perfect match for the OP's Porsche.
Good call.
bcgreen said:
Small world. I'm in North Saanich, just a stone's throw from Swartz Bay and can see the ferries cruising by my place once in a while. I used to spend most of December every year in Vancouver and surroundings every year too.
What caused your relocation to SoCal? Cold and rainy and gloomy here right now so you're probably cruising around with your top down. Yup, I'm envious.
You'll like the Gummi Pflege, it's good stuff too.
Well, its BC weather right now, except it was earlier in the mid to high '70s. Rainy and gloomy caused my parents to want to move when I was a teen. Definite car country down here, but I feel like a salmon, I need to go home. I don't know what I would have been into if we had not moved down to the car capital.
My mom and i used to live in Port Hardy when they were in their final days of whaling
My mom and i used to live in Port Hardy when they were in their final days of whaling
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen- Once you quit getting black transfer, apply a fairly heavy dose of the 1Z and let it sit for a while. Then buff off the excess. Because of that black transfer, I basically *NEVER* use the sponge-top applicator on the bottle, but rather apply to something like a swab or a cloth and use *that* to get it on the rubber. Otherwise, you'll *NEVER* get that foam applicator clean, at least not without more effort that I'd want to put into it.
Well, wise enough to figure it's not worth it for others, not wise enough to save *myself* the expense though
JohnZ3MC said:
Well, wise enough to figure it's not worth it for others, not wise enough to save *myself* the expense though
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Or, just pick up some scrap grey packing foam used to ship computers, etc and cut you a bunch of applicators to the sizes you need.
I gave up buying sponge applicators a long time ago.
I even use them for wood working when applying stains, to apply dressings, to apply the Color Gard and the UV Gard, when done, just throw the sponge in the trash.
I gave up buying sponge applicators a long time ago.
I even use them for wood working when applying stains, to apply dressings, to apply the Color Gard and the UV Gard, when done, just throw the sponge in the trash.
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen said:
Vaseline is messy, slimy stuff that, IMO, is likely to make a mess on whatever touches the seals and will also probably retain dirt. Plus, I can imagine getting it on a drying towel and then smearing it on the paint. I like cleaner products that leave stuff dry to the touch and don't transfer.
I use Vaseline on the applicator gun for spray-foam sealants (barrier to keep the sealant from adhering to the gun) and it's *FAR* too messy/slimy to get anywhere near my vehicles (or my refrigerator either
).Ron Ketcham said:
Yeah, TOL used to pack stuff with the foam they used for applicator pads as the cushioning material instead of peanuts/etc....big sheets of foam with lots of circular cutouts where they "punched out" the applicator pads. Years later I'm still using that stuff up.
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen said:
-AND-
Accumulator said:
You can see what I think about that idea
Works fine for me that way. Just don't use a cloth that's so coarse as to damage/mar the rubber and it should work great. I do use swabs for tight spots though.Ron Ketcham
Active member
George, have a buddy here with a 95, 911, had started to see some cracking of the window rubber gasket.
We cleaned it really, really good, with rubbing alcohol and New Car Prep, to remove all the oxidation and built up dressings, then another cleaning with the IPA and put on two coats of the UV Gard, letting it dry for 15 minutes between coats.
That was two years ago.
Saw him and car at the club yesterday after noon.
It was just fine, but he asked why it was not quite as glossy as a year ago.
Simple, the UV Gard was doing it's job and over time the UV rays will start to attack it a bit.
Told him to stop by on a warm day, we will wipe it down with IPA, put on another coat, it will be even better.
We cleaned it really, really good, with rubbing alcohol and New Car Prep, to remove all the oxidation and built up dressings, then another cleaning with the IPA and put on two coats of the UV Gard, letting it dry for 15 minutes between coats.
That was two years ago.
Saw him and car at the club yesterday after noon.
It was just fine, but he asked why it was not quite as glossy as a year ago.
Simple, the UV Gard was doing it's job and over time the UV rays will start to attack it a bit.
Told him to stop by on a warm day, we will wipe it down with IPA, put on another coat, it will be even better.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Ron Ketcham- Huh, never thought to use the UVG on bare rubber :think: Makes sense though.
So you can redo the UVG on bare rubber *that* easily, huh? IPA/etc. strip the oxidized coating/layer of rubber and just reapply?
My rubber deterioration hasn't really been to *that* point...I've been able to just clean/strip it and then use my Sonus Ultimate Tire and Trim Guard stuff, which holds up fine for the little exposure my vehicles get (as in, it lasts *years* most of the time). But for something that's used like a real vehicle in the real world, that UVG would sure provide greater protection.
Speaking of the ETRII stuff, with some of the Tahoe's trim a bit beyond...uhm...conventional fixes, I gotta get around to using it on a few more bits of that vehicle.
This (ETRII) is another product I try to push, but people seem to resist it in favor or, uhm...more consumer-oriented approaches that can't be nearly as effective :nixweiss
So you can redo the UVG on bare rubber *that* easily, huh? IPA/etc. strip the oxidized coating/layer of rubber and just reapply?
My rubber deterioration hasn't really been to *that* point...I've been able to just clean/strip it and then use my Sonus Ultimate Tire and Trim Guard stuff, which holds up fine for the little exposure my vehicles get (as in, it lasts *years* most of the time). But for something that's used like a real vehicle in the real world, that UVG would sure provide greater protection.
Speaking of the ETRII stuff, with some of the Tahoe's trim a bit beyond...uhm...conventional fixes, I gotta get around to using it on a few more bits of that vehicle.
This (ETRII) is another product I try to push, but people seem to resist it in favor or, uhm...more consumer-oriented approaches that can't be nearly as effective :nixweiss
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Yeah, just get all the dressing stuff off, down to the rubber and it will adhere and stay there.
For those who are in the "dark" about these things, rubber "oxidizes" much quicker than paint.
That's what the "black stuff" that comes off of the wiper blades, shows up on a clean applicator when they dress trim or tires is, "dead rubber".
Has to be removed in order for the UV Gard to adhere and protect.
For those who are in the "dark" about these things, rubber "oxidizes" much quicker than paint.
That's what the "black stuff" that comes off of the wiper blades, shows up on a clean applicator when they dress trim or tires is, "dead rubber".
Has to be removed in order for the UV Gard to adhere and protect.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Ron Ketcham said:
Right, and sometimes it does't take a lot of UV exposure/etc. for it to oxidize either!