Poorboys Silicone Content

CurtisS

CurtisS

Black G35
Just got my G35 back from the body shop and need to know which of my PB products contain NO Silicone as the Body shop said I could detail as long as there was NO silicone in the product.

Also, should they have said NO "Bad" Silicone? Where the good silicone is OK after painting (and Baking).

Steve I know you are on vacation but I can't wait a week to polish my baby as its already been a week.
 
All the SSRs are body shop safe and contain no silicone. You can use them to your heart's content. I wouldn't use any of the waxes or sealants for a couple of months as they will prevent the outgassing of your new paint and that will cause massive finish softening and eventually color coat failure (bad thing). Wait the 3 months to wax, you'll be glad you did.
 
The SSR and Pro Polish have no silicone, so they are safe
to use on freshly painted surfaces. As far as the sealers/
waxes are concerned, the gauge i go by is if they indicate
"Bodyshop safe". If they don't say it, I won't use it. Just
to be safe, the best person to ask about PB sealants/ waxes
is PB himself (Steve).

That said, bad silicones are silicone oils. They tend to leave
behind a very high gloss, but short lived. These type
of products migrate as they "cure" leaving particles floating
around to land on surfaces that need painting. They can cause
"fisheye", as well as prevent proper outgassing of solvents.
However, even some "good silicone" products can create
problems with outgassing, so they should not be used while
the paint is still curing. There are still some products that you can
use to put on the paint such as 3m Imperial Hand Glaze, and
Menzerna Final Touch Glaze. These have no silicone, allow the
paint to cure, while providing short term protection. Another
product that can be used is the Optimum Spray Wax. According
to the manufacturer, this can also be used for protection on
freshly painted surfaces.

The important thing of course, it to allow the paint to cure.
That takes about 40-60 days. Use the glaze or OCW, and afterwards
You can use the Poorboys products to your hearts content
 
usdm said:
Another
product that can be used is the Optimum Spray Wax. According
to the manufacturer, this can also be used for protection on
freshly painted surfaces.

The important thing of course, it to allow the paint to cure.
That takes about 40-60 days. Use the glaze or OCW, and afterwards
You can use the Poorboys products to your hearts content
Click to expand...

that said, just stik with OCW! that stuff rocks.
 
joyriide1113 said:
but since he said his paint was baked doesnt that assume that there isnt a 40-60 day wait?
Click to expand...
Nope. The "baking" process inside a bodyshop is not even close to the baking process in the factory.
 
Bob said:
Nope. The "baking" process inside a bodyshop is not even close to the baking process in the factory.
Click to expand...

The baking process in a bodyshop is to accelerate paint
drying. It does not really accelerate outgassing of solvents.

It's the same thing like sealants; even after you've applied
and wiped off the residue, you still need to wait a day or so
before another coat is applied. That's because the the solvents
are still being released in the drying sealer. Even if you use a
heat lamp or hot light to speed up the drying of the sealer, the
solvents are still in there and have to come out over time.
 
well thaqt would probably explain why back when i had my mini cooper and someone hit the back bumer and it got repainted. why it started getting bubbled spots and would marr way too easily. i never knew not to wax and i would wax away. at times up to 3-4 applications.

it wasnt noticeable but when ud detail it and get close u could see the bubbled spots.
 
joyriide1113 said:
well thaqt would probably explain why back when i had my mini cooper and someone hit the back bumer and it got repainted. why it started getting bubbled spots and would marr way too easily. i never knew not to wax and i would wax away. at times up to 3-4 applications.
it wasnt noticeable but when ud detail it and get close u could see the bubbled spots.
Click to expand...
Yeppers. Same thing happened to me a few years ago. My body guy tells me it is ok to wax because they baked it. Well the paint did what yours did and I talked to the shop owner and he said they can not come close to matching the process in the factory and I should still have waited to wax it. But I took his employees advice for some reason. Live and learn.
 
CurtisS said:
What is the OCW and where can you get it?
Click to expand...
Optimum Car Wax (spray). PAC sells it, as does Autogeek and SMP. (All 3 are site sponsors with links listed on the upper left-hand corner of the page.)
 
Heat curing won't help anything . The ony paint that is actually cured ( but still not completely gassed out ) is UV cured finishes .
They dry from the metal out and pretty much flash cure the paint solvents .
The paint still goes thru gassing out stage though for about 30 days after UV cure .
As everyone said compounding it a few weeks after it was done is okay as long as it's body shop safe . 3m make body shop safe rubbing compound , and machine glaze .
Then a thorough washing and application of something like imperial hand glaze or meg's new car glaze #5 weekly will be okay until paint is completely done settlign and curing .
how do you know when it's done ?
Lightly wet sand one of the repainted areas on the side vertical panels and rinse & dry quickly . Put a hair dryer to it maybe 10 seconds at about 1 foot away . If it smells like paint still , it's not cured .
Only way I know of to REALLY know for sure .
I wouldn't use optimum spray wax until at least 60 days after painting .
 
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