Poorboy SSR's

G

Goose

New member
Where is the best place to buy these products? (and lowest shipping charges)



I just ordered some AIO and the Sonus DAS kit from Autopia for oxidation removal....



Should I need more products that do so, Any better ideas?

I know that it's a 'chemical' remover, so any more abrassiveness needed? Paint is 14 yrs. old but I've done my best (not Autopian best mind you) to keep up on it over the years with wash/wax. Plus it was mostly always in a heated garage.



thanks.
 
i got the ssr1, 2.5 and pp from autogeek.net, came in a few days.



i think they also give a discount for here
 
Hi Guys..

Ive zero experience with SSR and have got a few qns..Hope u guys can help me out here.



I've got a few mths old black car with some minor swirls. What would u guys suggest i use?



Im curious if the range of SSRs from Poorboys would give good results with hand application?



Also, ive been reading on the boards and realise some recommend a 2.5 followed by a 1. Why is this so? Can we not remove the swirls with just a single pdt? Perhaps with an in betweener of 2 (again with hand application) ? Im aware that as the car gets older, SSR 2 may not be tuff enuff to remove harsher swirls.



Would AIO be unnec after SSR? Or do we have to use it as a chemical cleaner?



Lastly, If i intend to layer coats of Z2 pro after the SSR is buffed off, would there be potential bonding problems? Do i need to rewash the car b4 slapping on the Z2?



Give me yr opinions pls.



Thanks lots. :)
 
Originally posted by Goose

Hey J.J. - nice to see someone else from Maine, where ya located?[/B]
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Hey Goose, I didn't notice you were from Maine. I'm located in Biddeford. I'm actually from TN but I moved here for educational purposes. I'm a 2nd year medical student at UNE. Where bouts' you from?



Shinyblack, I too have zero experience with the SSR but like I said everyone speaks very highly of them. As far as I know, you can use them by hand, but I think many would agree the best results are found using the PC (I could be wrong though).



I've learned using the AIO after polish really isn't necessary. I asked that question not to long ago and received mixed emotions about it. SOme people just "feel better" knowing they used the AIO. Others said its a needless step you can skip to save time.



The SSR 2.5 is for heavier oxidation and "more than minor" swirling. If applied to aggressively, the 2.5 can cause micromarring and thus must be followed with the SSR 1. I bought both just in case.



Personally, my process will vary depending on how well the SSR 1 removes my swirlies. Most people recommend starting with the least abrassive products and pads and move to more abrassive products and pads until you acquire the desired results. I'm going to take their advice and do that. Hope this helps!



JJ
 
"Where bouts' you from?"



I'm up in Woolwich. About 45 min. North of Portland. I'm thinking about ordering SSR1 and SSR2.5 very soon so I can start my detailing this year on the right foot. Already have the PC.

Have a good one.



Goose
 
Looks like a damn good deal to me. I wish I would've found that earlier too. Give them a shot and let us know about your experience.



JJ
 
J.J and Steve,



Thanks for yr very informational replies! Really appreciate it.



Even though ive only v minor swirls that can be seen under certain light, I thk il be going ahead with the 2.5 and 1 , since my's a daily ungaraged ride and i reckon that as the car ages, it could possibly get worse.



Im hoping that i wont have micromarring with the 2.5 since its done less aggressively by hand (though I know black cars are really suckers for even the most minor blemishes) Guess the only way I'l know is to try!



Anyone with more opinions/suggestions pls feel free to add on...



Oh yes, would those meguair applicator pads work with the application of SSRs and MF towels for buffing? Or do I use something else to better effect? I suppose the SSRs are applied in circular motions ala a PC and buffed away in straights?
 
I use SSR2.5 with orange pad. Excellent results if you work it in good and no marring. No need for SSR1, but does not hurt.



AIO is an excellent base for anything, and I recommend it. I did this black Escalade last weekend, with 2.5 + Orange + AIO by hand, + Soverean by hand.



http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/18990caddyhood.jpg



http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/18990caddyfender.jpg



http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/18990caddyhoodafter.jpg



http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/18990caddysideafter.jpg



Steve
 
Nice job SHICKS, hope my cars come out that good. Tho none have paint quite as nice as that Escalade. That order is what I'm thinking about on a oxidized car... (less the $70 wax... #16/#26 instead)... hope it works. Thanks for all the replies. I kinda noticed my thread got threadjacked alittle, but it's all in an effort to understand the product/process. lol :wavey :wavey
 
Goose said:
Nice job SHICKS, hope my cars come out that good. Tho none have paint quite as nice as that Escalade. That order is what I'm thinking about on a oxidized car... (less the $70 wax... #16/#26 instead)... hope it works. Thanks for all the replies. I kinda noticed my thread got threadjacked alittle, but it's all in an effort to understand the product/process. lol :wavey :wavey
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Thanks,



I use the PC 7336.



To get back on track, I purchased my PoorBoys stuff at



www.sportscarcare.com excellent service.



Steve
 
Shicks, they seem to have reasonable prices there, good link.

I too will be using a PC 7336sp when I get all my products together.
 
I have had good luck using the PB SSRs. For example, PB SSR 2.5 was used on the Jetta in the Extreme Detailing Contest (along with SFX-1 and AIO) and you can see the results for yourself.
 
ShinyBlack said:
Im hoping that i wont have micromarring with the 2.5 since its done less aggressively by hand (though I know black cars are really suckers for even the most minor blemishes) Guess the only way I'l know is to try!
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The SSR's are "Diminishing Abrasive" polishes. This means they start out at their most aggressive, and as they are worked, the abrasive particles break down into finer particles, which then polish out the marring made by the particles when they were larger. If you are doing this by hand, you would need to work a product longer than with a machine in order to get the particles to break down.

You would actually be assurring marring by lightly applying SSR2.5 by hand, as you would only be using the particulate in its largest/most aggressive form. Therefore you would need to follow up 2.5 with 2 or 1 in the scenario you presented.







Oh yes, would those meguair applicator pads work with the application of SSRs and MF towels for buffing? Or do I use something else to better effect?
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The pads will work. Terry cloth tends to have more "bite," but can also cause marring, so you may have better luck with the foam. Make sure you use only one product per pad. You wouldn't want to use a pad with remnants of SSR2.5 in it when applying your LSP. Mf towels for removal is good too.
 
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