Polishing with Menzerna 106FF and Intensive Polish

J

Julius_911

New member
Hi,



I used to detail my black 98 Maxima once a year, but in the last few years I got lazy..now I wish to re-start.



I do have some pretty bad swirl and scratches that I wish to at least reduce (removing them will probably be impossible). In my garage I have the Menzerna 106FF and Menzerna Intensive Polish. I also have a porter bluffer.



I can't remember the order on what polish to use first (after claying)..Do I start with the 106FF orange pad, then go with Intensive Polish on the white pad? Or vise-versa?



After the polishing, I plan on adding RMG, UPP (4 coats) and then whatever left over wax I can find :)



Question 2: Does claying the car actually remove any past glaze, sealant and wax?



Thank you!
 
Glad to see you're back in the game.



I'd recommend these steps for ya:

1. Stripping Wash (Strip old chemicals)

2. Clay

3. KAIO (Klasse All-In-One)

4. Intensive Polish on Orange pad (Lake country)

5. 106ff on white pad (Lake country)

6. Sealant of choice

7. Wax of choice if you'd like





Of course this all depends on the condition of your paint and your technique using the PC (Porter Cable buffer aka "bluffer")
 
Julius_911 said:
Hi,



I used to detail my black 98 Maxima once a year, but in the last few years I got lazy..now I wish to re-start.



I do have some pretty bad swirl and scratches that I wish to at least reduce (removing them will probably be impossible). In my garage I have the Menzerna 106FF and Menzerna Intensive Polish. I also have a porter bluffer.



I can't remember the order on what polish to use first (after claying)..Do I start with the 106FF orange pad, then go with Intensive Polish on the white pad? Or vise-versa?
Click to expand...





Some people like to do the "try the least aggressive approach first" thing, others jump right in with an aggressive combo that they know will work.



Random thoughts from somebody who's *not* a real Menzerna expert:



-The IP is more potent than the 106FF

-I'd use orange pads with IP but not with 106FF

-106FF can do some *incredible* concealing so I'd do all the "real correction" with the IP first



After the polishing, I plan on adding RMG, UPP (4 coats) and then whatever left over wax I can find :)
Click to expand...



OK, but I wouldn't top UPP as it looks mighty "wax-like" all by itself anyhow.



Question 2: Does claying the car actually remove any past glaze, sealant and wax?
Click to expand...



It just depends on how aggressively/not you do the claying. Generally, it'll probably compromiseit a little but not strip it completely. I "clay my LSP" all the time without messing it up, but I do it very gently too.
 
IP then 106FF for jeweling. 106FF is still my go to "crown jewel polish". Marvelous on Audi and MB paint. IIRC it's those premium grade cerium oxide particles that made it's claim to fame. But nowadays has it lost its fame to polishes like M105 and 205?
 
Bill D said:
.. But nowadays has [106FF] lost its fame to polishes like M105 and 205?
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Or maybe to PO85RD.



Re the M205, on hard clear I see a slight improvement from the 106 (whichever version was/is sold under the "Blackfire" label). I wasn't 100% satsified with how M205/finishing pad left the M3, but the Menzerna/BF stuff ramped it up just enough to have been worth doing.
 
solekeeper said:
106ff does have some cut to it though right?



It's not a total jewel polish like say 3M's Ultrafina right?
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Yes, it has some cut that will correct wash marring. Its actually my go-to single stepper for soft paints. On harder paints you'll need something else before it to do any correction, and save the 106ff / fa for final polishing.
 
yea, that is what I need.. but could the 106ff finish off LSP ready?





And I've been recommended a white pad to use with it, that ok?





sorry for the thread jack.. :x
 
That sounds alright to me. Just be sure to do at least an IPA wipedown ( I personally am going to use Valugard's "A" from the ABC system or New Car Prep to be super sure) to ensure you've got all the marring out before applying the LSP. I understand a while back apparently there was a dirty little secret that Menzerna's jeweling polishes have very good fillers even though they do correct very well.
 
yea, right now for wetsanding with 2k.. I'm using a rock in the bottle compound (3m) to cut out the sandscratches fast.



Then, Meguiars wool with m105

Orange LC foam, m105



And that finishes off with about 90 percent correction. (Body shop clear). I have minor micro-marring, and a tiny bit of swirls.

So I think menzerna 106ff with a white pad could lead to my perfection.... right guys?
 
I would think so, but even though they're still some of my favorite polishes,my understanding is that even the once very acclaimed 106ff and PO85RD can in fact conceal defects well, so the whole Windex spiked with ammonia or IPA wipe down, and washing the car with a good degreasing wash after paint correction still applies if you truly want naked paint to inspect and then see if it came out perfectly. Lot of work apparently. I would never have thought it could become *that* involved. That's not to say if you don't do all of that, you won't be able to more than reasonably tell how well your paint correction came out though.
 
I just heard about it the other day from Barry Theal in his Bentley detail write-up:



Barry Theal said:
Yes I have used the whole IPA thing,but have found in general it works great, but when using it to heavy in a mix it can dry to fast on the paint. I use just general windex and spike it with amonia. The amonia will remove polishing oils for sure! Windex has alcohal in it. So thats just a nother surefire way of adding to the mix. Even after all that. I have found this with ipa as well. That a good degreaser wash will make sure everything is removed! Showing the paints true surface.
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