I've spent all weekend trying to polish the supposedly-red '70 Ghia. This was an Ebay acquisition. Paint condition: like tomato soup cooked with milk -- more orange than red. My partner-in-crime figured it was a candidate for a repaint. Now, after reading for months on Autopia, and now (thanks again, A!) in possession of a PC, I decided to see how well a PC and some 3M polishes would "restore" a single-stage paint. First, I went at it with the PC and 3M Super-Cut Rubbing Compound; I would start the PC, (using the yellow/cutting pad) around 4, then zip it up to 5 or 6. So much dead paint came off, that I had to clean and dry the pad after every couple of panels. Here's a couple of pix, where I had polished the right side of the hood only:
polishing the Karmann Ghia ... please check my work
- Thread starter chris0626
- Start date
BTW, I really don't know how to use Photoshop for anything more than changing the image size and resolution -- so these pix aren't photochopped. But what I hope you can see, is the right side is showing a few reflections of trees and the shade created by the EZUp near the windscreen.
Here's a different angle:
Here's a different angle:
Attachments
At that point, neighbors were cracking up at my "two-tone" car: one side was becoming red again, with some fairly-deep reflectsions, and the other side was still orange, dead, with no reflections.
Next I applied 3M FineCut Rubbing Compound, again using the PC and yellow pad. The shine now is even a bit deeper.
Now to my question: When I started on this car, there did not seem to be any scratches. But I assume that's because the paint was so completely "dead" and oxidized and non-reflective, that you could not have seen any scratches. Now that I've brought up the shine with the two 3M compounds, there are tiny scratches galore.
Having read Autopia forums and DavidB's articles, I plan now to move to the next phase: 3M SMR -- first with a yellow pad, then with a white pad. I'm taking it as an "article of faith" that "stepping-down" in the abrasiveness of the product and pad will gradually remove those scratches. Does that make sense to you all?
After that, assuming all works well, I figure I'll Dawn wash to get rid of the oils/fillers, then proceed to Klasse AIO & SG. Does that make sense?
Any and all tips will be judiciously considered. Thanks! :wavey
Meantime, I guess I wanted to post this just to show folks who are nervous (as I was) that the PC and polish really can make a huge improvement, even in the hands of a novice. Folks looking at the car cannot believe this isn't a new paint job. :up
Next I applied 3M FineCut Rubbing Compound, again using the PC and yellow pad. The shine now is even a bit deeper.
Now to my question: When I started on this car, there did not seem to be any scratches. But I assume that's because the paint was so completely "dead" and oxidized and non-reflective, that you could not have seen any scratches. Now that I've brought up the shine with the two 3M compounds, there are tiny scratches galore.
Having read Autopia forums and DavidB's articles, I plan now to move to the next phase: 3M SMR -- first with a yellow pad, then with a white pad. I'm taking it as an "article of faith" that "stepping-down" in the abrasiveness of the product and pad will gradually remove those scratches. Does that make sense to you all?
After that, assuming all works well, I figure I'll Dawn wash to get rid of the oils/fillers, then proceed to Klasse AIO & SG. Does that make sense?
Any and all tips will be judiciously considered. Thanks! :wavey
Meantime, I guess I wanted to post this just to show folks who are nervous (as I was) that the PC and polish really can make a huge improvement, even in the hands of a novice. Folks looking at the car cannot believe this isn't a new paint job. :up
Brad B
New member
Fantastic Job, Lynn!:bow I, for one, love the two tone look! Red is cooler than pink, though!
As for the compounding, it may be too big a jump to go from the Rubbing Compound right to the SMR. I generally put Finesse It in between the two. The level of abrasiveness is more graduated that way. But give it a shot if you like. The SMR is not very effective at medium/heavier scratch removal whereas the FI is much better at it.
Have fun! :xyxthumbs
As for the compounding, it may be too big a jump to go from the Rubbing Compound right to the SMR. I generally put Finesse It in between the two. The level of abrasiveness is more graduated that way. But give it a shot if you like. The SMR is not very effective at medium/heavier scratch removal whereas the FI is much better at it.
Have fun! :xyxthumbs
imported_edschwab1
New member
Nice work Lynn.
As for the scratches, step down in abrasiveness gradually. The Ghia is single stage paint and can be worked more than Base/clear paint.
As for the scratches, step down in abrasiveness gradually. The Ghia is single stage paint and can be worked more than Base/clear paint.
Thanks for tips. But I thought I WAS doing an appropriate step-down in abrasiveness. I was going from this thread --located at http://www.autopia.org/forums/newreply.php?s=&action=newreply&postid=236834 -- -- which says --
I was using the "3M PERFECT-IT II RUBBING COMPOUND FINE CUT 39002" which is rated a "5" in this chart. I thought 3M SMR was a lower-abrasiveness, but I see in that chart it too is rated a 5.
So maybe just moving down to a white pad won't be enough of a step-down? :nixweiss Or is this chart just flawed?
Deanski said:
I was using the "3M PERFECT-IT II RUBBING COMPOUND FINE CUT 39002" which is rated a "5" in this chart. I thought 3M SMR was a lower-abrasiveness, but I see in that chart it too is rated a 5.
So maybe just moving down to a white pad won't be enough of a step-down? :nixweiss Or is this chart just flawed?imported_Aurora40
New member
I don't actually know, but I was of the impression the 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound was like ridiculously abrasive, a lot more than even the Meg's Diamond Cut. I wonder if with a PC you should have started with something a tad less agressive and worked at it a bit longer? But I don't know, just a thought. :nixweiss
Anyway, the photos are great Lynn! :xyxthumbs
Oh, I'd skip the dawn if your using AIO.
Anyway, the photos are great Lynn! :xyxthumbs
Oh, I'd skip the dawn if your using AIO.
Corey Bit Spank
Active member
Looks great Lynn, I really like Ghias. Nice looking cars. I was strolling through ebay motors and I saw one and gosh--they're pretty. Good work. goodluck!
imported_Greg1
New member
SMR won't do much for the swirls. Like Brad said- Finesse It would work better presumably. Finesse It would have also probably taken care of the oxidation or AIO, so IMO the Super rubbing compound wasn't really necessary unless there were serious scratches, but then my experience has told me that these types of polishes necessitate a rotary. Anyway- it looks great and by the end of the whole affair- you will have a new paint job- justify buying some more supplies or something by the money you saved for a new paint job.
Aurora40, I needed something "ridiculously abrasive" to cut thru all that pink/orange oxidation. Basically, this was a case of "take your best shot with the PC or else we'll repaint" job. As for "working it a bit longer," yeah, I've pondered that. For me, it would work like this: turn on the PC, it would look sort of white, then it would look watery, then it would start hazing -- at which point, I had been told to kill the PC, wipe off the polish with a MF. Then lots of times I would do another application, because it only took like 3 minutes to get to that point.
And thanks for tip about skipping Dawn, Aurora40. I haven't used Klasse yet (still need to download those instructions), but just assumed Dawn was always required. I'll double-check that now! :up
Hey, Corey Bit Spank, wanna buy a '70 Ghia cheap?
And thanks for tip about skipping Dawn, Aurora40. I haven't used Klasse yet (still need to download those instructions), but just assumed Dawn was always required. I'll double-check that now! :up
Hey, Corey Bit Spank, wanna buy a '70 Ghia cheap?
Greg said:
I couldn't actually tell if there were scratches. The oxidation was so extreme that you could not see scratches except those that were really deep/gross.
So ... are you telling me that I've spent all this time with polishes for no good reason, and that AIO would have done the trick? If so, I think I'll just have to guzzle a gallon of APC+ or something.
Ah well .... live and learn, I suppose. Maybe I'll just try jumping to AIO and check my results before venturing further into the World o' Polishes.
The only comfort is your line that this will "justify" my buying more supplies.
Corey Bit Spank
Active member
How cheap? I could repaint it Lynn, my grandfather is 75, but he'd teach me how. In his prime he was very good.
If I bought it of course.
If I bought it of course.
Spilchy
New member
Great job so far! As far as oxidation removal, I would defintely hit it with some AIO. That is a fantastic product for oxidation removal with a PC and a little water misted on the pad. I have seen some drastic results with oxidation removal on this board - especially Jngrbrdman's work on a red pickup (see his gallery).
I've been looking on Ebay for a vintage Corvette purchase but just can't bring myself to buy something based on pictures and a description.
Maybe you can tell us some time in another post, your story behind this purchase on Ebay and what you did to research the car. I think it would make for a cool little story!
Best of luck with it! She's in good hands!
I've been looking on Ebay for a vintage Corvette purchase but just can't bring myself to buy something based on pictures and a description.
Maybe you can tell us some time in another post, your story behind this purchase on Ebay and what you did to research the car. I think it would make for a cool little story!
Best of luck with it! She's in good hands!
Accumulator
Well-known member
Lynn- Besides "check your PM's", I'll say that despite what the chart says, you can get an "almost ready to wax" finish with 3M's PI-III RC (05933). I'd work the paint with that until it looks VERY good. Then I'd really make it nice with PI-III MG (05937). Use the MG first with a yellow pad and then with a white one. I consider the 05937 to be a "staple product" that you oughta have on hand anyhow. Then use the SMR if you like, and finally your AIO. The 05937 MG should give you an almost-perfect finish though. Or as close as you're likely to get with that particular car.
imported_Aurora40
New member
Lynn said:
Well, I guess what I meant was that it might be too abrasive a product for the PC to handle, which might be why you have a lot of swirling showing up. If you really need a product that agressive, maybe you need something tougher than the PC to apply it. You might try something closer to the 7-8 scale of your chart to see how that does, but it's just a thought. I don't have a whole lot of oxidation experience. But sometimes it looks a lot worse than it really is since it looks so flat and dead. However, it looks like you're doing a great job, and I'm sure it will come out great. :wavey
Brad B
New member
Lynn said:Thanks for tips. But I thought I WAS doing an appropriate step-down in abrasiveness. I was going from this thread --located at http://www.autopia.org/forums/newreply.php?s=&action=newreply&postid=236834 -- -- which says --
I was using the "3M PERFECT-IT II RUBBING COMPOUND FINE CUT 39002" which is rated a "5" in this chart. I thought 3M SMR was a lower-abrasiveness, but I see in that chart it too is rated a 5.
I am afraid there are several mistakes with the chart. No slam on its creater, I applaud his efforts, but Finnesse It II is much more abrasive than SMR.
BTW, FI is finer than Perfect-It Rubbing Compound Fine Cut.
I solve 99% of all paint damage with:
1. PI Fine Cut (yellow pad)
2. FI II (yellow pad)
3. SMR (white pad)
4. Paint Cleanser if required for final haze removal. (white pad)
3M makes, by far the best quality abrasives on the market. Stick with them.
I second the motion on the PI-lll MG and would even try a panel going right to the AIO without putting SMR after the MG, that might work out good for you. The MG doesn't contain fillers while the SMR does. You might need to use the FC before the MG and then go right to AIO. Both the FC and the MG could easily be considered "staples" as was mentioned, both are very good products.
imported_Intermezzo
New member
Brad B. said:
I've been using both 3M FI-II and 3M FCRC for quite a while now and I would have to say that I agree completely!! :up
Also, regarding the chart, Meguiar's Hand Polish (81) should not be categorized in the same level as that of cleaner waxes and 3M's machine glazes, which are definitely abrasive. I might be reading the chart incorrectly though because it lists a quick detailer as an abrasive product.
milani
New member
Wow! I have been waiting to see some pics of this car! They have such a unique look to them. Nice job!:xyxthumbs