I see that many people are excited about the Lowes price on the 7336 and that that is generating a lot of questions about polishing pads. Still, I am a bit confused about why the need for pads with different (or any) cutting ability - e.g Sonus orange, green and blue pads. Why do I need any cutting ability in the pads, isn't this the job of the polish? Why wouldn't I just use a set of blue pads and step down through the aggresiveness of the polishes to go from swirl mark removal, to gloss to final luster?
Polishing - pads vs compounds?
- Thread starter dcampen
- Start date
dcampen, here's a direct quote from Autopia Knowledge Base on PC usage:
" Pads must be matched to an appropriate polish to achieve the desired results. Donï¿Â½t try to use a fine hand polish with a cutting pad to remove heavy oxidation or swirl marks. It simply wonï¿Â½t work....
SELECTING THE RIGHT POLISH
Most of the major polish manufacturers make a selection of abrasive papers, compounds, cleaners, polishes and glazes to meet varying polishing requirements. Hereï¿Â½s a quick definition of polishing abrasives:
Abrasive paper or pad - An ultra-fine grade of sandpaper (1500 to 3000 grit) that can be used effectively to level a paint finish and remove imperfections. I mention sandpaper here because it is an abrasive, like all polishes, and it has its place in the polishing process.
Compound - A compound, often called a rubbing compound or a paint cleaning compound, is a cutting polish designed to remove heavy oxidation, some common forms of paint damage and defects, and the scratches created by fine sandpaper. Use compounds with a foam cutting pad. Always start with the least aggressive pad and compound possible.
Polish - A specially formulated blend of components designed to remove minor scratches, surface imperfections, water spots, acid rain spots, light oxidation, and the swirl marks created by compounding with a machine. Use a foam polishing pad or a fine cutting pad.
Glaze - A very fine polish. Some glazes are safe to use on fresh paint, as they do not seal or contain silicones. A glaze does not have enough cutting power (if any) to remove imperfections, but will increase surface gloss. Use a fine foam polishing pad or a finishing pad.
Pre-wax cleaner - A fine polish containing chemical cleaners to help remove minor surface contamination and dirt not handled by normal washing or claying. Use a fine foam polishing pad or a finishing pad."
You can read the rest by clicking here.
I urge you to become familiar with this free resource and its many training articles.
I hope this helps.
" Pads must be matched to an appropriate polish to achieve the desired results. Donï¿Â½t try to use a fine hand polish with a cutting pad to remove heavy oxidation or swirl marks. It simply wonï¿Â½t work....
SELECTING THE RIGHT POLISH
Most of the major polish manufacturers make a selection of abrasive papers, compounds, cleaners, polishes and glazes to meet varying polishing requirements. Hereï¿Â½s a quick definition of polishing abrasives:
Abrasive paper or pad - An ultra-fine grade of sandpaper (1500 to 3000 grit) that can be used effectively to level a paint finish and remove imperfections. I mention sandpaper here because it is an abrasive, like all polishes, and it has its place in the polishing process.
Compound - A compound, often called a rubbing compound or a paint cleaning compound, is a cutting polish designed to remove heavy oxidation, some common forms of paint damage and defects, and the scratches created by fine sandpaper. Use compounds with a foam cutting pad. Always start with the least aggressive pad and compound possible.
Polish - A specially formulated blend of components designed to remove minor scratches, surface imperfections, water spots, acid rain spots, light oxidation, and the swirl marks created by compounding with a machine. Use a foam polishing pad or a fine cutting pad.
Glaze - A very fine polish. Some glazes are safe to use on fresh paint, as they do not seal or contain silicones. A glaze does not have enough cutting power (if any) to remove imperfections, but will increase surface gloss. Use a fine foam polishing pad or a finishing pad.
Pre-wax cleaner - A fine polish containing chemical cleaners to help remove minor surface contamination and dirt not handled by normal washing or claying. Use a fine foam polishing pad or a finishing pad."
You can read the rest by clicking here.
I urge you to become familiar with this free resource and its many training articles.
I hope this helps.
Thanks and thanks for the pointer to the knowledge base. Still, this answers the inverse of my question and actually reinforces my question. To paraphrase the quote - using a fine polish with a
cutting pad won't give you much cutting. The converse of this seems to be that using a aggressive cutting polish with a polishing pad would still give me lots of aggressive cutting action - i.e. it is the polish that is important, not the pad. So, I still wonder what is the function of having 3 or 4 different grades of pads? Shouldn't one type of pad work with 3 different grades of polish from aggressive cutting polish to final glazing polish?
A polish and its equivalent pad are designed to work in tandem.
While one can argue that the correct polish is the most important element in paint correction, it will lose its stated cutting action (and glossing ability) if not applied with its equivalent pad.
For example, if you were to use #83 (which has a claimed cutting rating of 6) with the correct (medium-cutting) pad, you would be able to achieve a theoretical cutting effect of 6. If you were to use a finishing pad, it will achieve much less. A softer pad cannot apply enough *force* to the polish. One can look at a pad as an *enabler*.
Secondly, the more aggressive the pad, the more friction and heat that is generated. Cutting polishes require a certain amount of friction and heat to break down the abrasives they contain. Without them breaking down, you'll be left with a scouring effect rather than a polishing effect. A fine pad is unable to do this as its too soft/gentle.
Consequently, the *correct* pad is one that, 1) matches and reinforces (enables) the stated cutting level of a given polish, 2) creates the right amount of heat/friction to correctly break down the abrasives in the polish, 3) isn't too aggressive so as to instill its own dulling/marring effect on the paint finish.
Selecting the *correct* pad requires, 1) faith in the pad manufacturers' stated grading, 2) good advice from people who have experience in this (such as the good people on this forum), 3) your own personal experience after trial and error.
Additionaly, there are different pad designs and foam materials that, although have the same cutting level, are engineered to work in slightly different ways, or provide a unique feature/advantage. For example, Flat pad, Variable Contact, Curved Edge, Constant Pressure, Tufted Foam, etc.
Add to this mix, personal preference for feel/comfort/familiarity/technique, and you have the bewildering array of pad choices we're all faced with that frequently confounds us!
That's why we need to be part of the Autopia family.
I hope this is clearer....brother. :xyxthumbs
While one can argue that the correct polish is the most important element in paint correction, it will lose its stated cutting action (and glossing ability) if not applied with its equivalent pad.
For example, if you were to use #83 (which has a claimed cutting rating of 6) with the correct (medium-cutting) pad, you would be able to achieve a theoretical cutting effect of 6. If you were to use a finishing pad, it will achieve much less. A softer pad cannot apply enough *force* to the polish. One can look at a pad as an *enabler*.
Secondly, the more aggressive the pad, the more friction and heat that is generated. Cutting polishes require a certain amount of friction and heat to break down the abrasives they contain. Without them breaking down, you'll be left with a scouring effect rather than a polishing effect. A fine pad is unable to do this as its too soft/gentle.
Consequently, the *correct* pad is one that, 1) matches and reinforces (enables) the stated cutting level of a given polish, 2) creates the right amount of heat/friction to correctly break down the abrasives in the polish, 3) isn't too aggressive so as to instill its own dulling/marring effect on the paint finish.
Selecting the *correct* pad requires, 1) faith in the pad manufacturers' stated grading, 2) good advice from people who have experience in this (such as the good people on this forum), 3) your own personal experience after trial and error.
Additionaly, there are different pad designs and foam materials that, although have the same cutting level, are engineered to work in slightly different ways, or provide a unique feature/advantage. For example, Flat pad, Variable Contact, Curved Edge, Constant Pressure, Tufted Foam, etc.
Add to this mix, personal preference for feel/comfort/familiarity/technique, and you have the bewildering array of pad choices we're all faced with that frequently confounds us!
That's why we need to be part of the Autopia family.
I hope this is clearer....brother. :xyxthumbs
Accumulator
Well-known member
dcampen said:
I get by quite well with two-three grades of pads. I'll use a cutting pad with my most aggressive product for the "rough correction" if needed. Then I use the same product with a milder polishing pad.
I do most of my work with the mild polishing pads. I *do* use them with different grades of polish and I could almost go so far as to say they're all I really need.
Then a finishing pad for my LSP.
When working with the Cyclo, the three standard grades of "Cyclo brand" pads are all I really need. I don't see much need for more choices with the PC either, at least not for what I'm doing.
Pad choices have always been somewhat limited for the Cyclo, and yet those who use it get by just fine.
But the number of different pads available *does* give a wide selection from which to choose one's favorites.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
dcampen said:
The abrading ability of any polish can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and / or pressure used, using it wet or dry and / or type of foam composition (different foam compositions and / or densities have a differing abrading ability)
JonM
imported_The Uncle
New member
This is a really, really useful thread. Thanks guys!