Polishing my stainless Steel exhaust tips to mirrior shine (pics)

8Banger

New member
first let me say i've searched and found a couple threads, but nothing that answers my questions exactly. i want to polish the stock tips on my 03 mustang gt to a mirrior shine. about the only method i've read about that will work is using the adam's polishes, and quite frankly i don't have 40 dollars to spend on metal polish at this time. obviously, they're off the car right now so access to them won't be hard.



im thinking something like



2000gritt wet

#0000 steel wool

metal polish

maybe a different polish?



the only problem is i don't know which polish(s) to use. can anyone help me out, please?



thanks guys!



also, if anyone has small amounts of adam's polish you'd be willing to trade then send me a pm :)



Image024.jpg




Image029.jpg
 
I currently have a Mangaflow catback on my GT and I use Meguiars NXT Metal Polish, an old microfiber towel and lots of elbow grease on the tips.



Rather than wet sanding or steel wool, I have had good luck using my PC with an old 3.5" pad to get a lot of the hard work done and then go to the old microfiber for the finishing work.
 
I happen to like Menzerna's metal polish. You may be suprised at what just the polish and some elbow grease can provide.
 
I wouldn't wet-sand it at all. Use some moderate grit polish and hand polish (whip it like the shoe-shine guys) like mad. Wipe clean and do it again with a fine grit polish - again by hand. Don't use a buffer as you can easily overheat the chrome and burn/tarnish it. Then multi layer a sealer (I like Rejex as it holds up well to excessive heat) without using the car between layers. (Rejex suggests 12 hours between coats). I usually do 4 coats, about 3 times a year.

Good Luck.
 
DO NOT USE SANDPAPER. Use a good metal polish. Wenol comes in two grades. Use the more aggressive first and then finish with the mild polish. You'll have best luck with some cotton or felt bobs and a drill. check TP Tools & Equipment
 
I used Eagle One Billet Polish, followed up with Griot's Garage Metal Polish. Works Great.



EDIT ** It's Eagle One Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish, not Billet Polish. Couldn't remember the name.



This is the stuff - It's a wadding that contains tons of petroleum distallates that helps break down tar and crap...



eWash-P-RiMet-ENevrDull.jpg




Before



DSC01962.jpg




After



DSC02014.jpg
 
+1 on that. I had never used the product until John (Eliot Ness) brought some over when he helped me with the DeLorean and Batmobile. The Batmobile has a turbine exhaust (It shoots a 20' propane flame out of the back...I'm not kidding) that was heavily "blued" from the gas/flames. He used the NXT Metal Polish on it, and it came out PERFECT. I do not have any before pics, but John has the after pics. Maybe he'll post it on this thread.



rjstaaf said:
I currently have a Mangaflow catback on my GT and I use Meguiars NXT Metal Polish, an old microfiber towel and lots of elbow grease on the tips.



Rather than wet sanding or steel wool, I have had good luck using my PC with an old 3.5" pad to get a lot of the hard work done and then go to the old microfiber for the finishing work.
 
rjstaaf said:
I currently have a Mangaflow catback on my GT and I use Meguiars NXT Metal Polish, an old microfiber towel and lots of elbow grease on the tips..............
EisenHulk said:
+1 on that. I had never used the product until John (Eliot Ness) brought some over when he helped me with the DeLorean and Batmobile. The Batmobile has a turbine exhaust (It shoots a 20' propane flame out of the back...I'm not kidding) that was heavily "blued" from the gas/flames. He used the NXT Metal Polish on it, and it came out PERFECT......
Yeah, I've used a lot of metal polishes but the NXT really impressed me. That turbine was not a highly polished stainless but had a lot of bluing on it I hoped to remove. I brought some Blue Job (supposed to work on stainless and chrome) with me thinking that would be just the ticket but it wouldn't touch it. Then on a lark I tried the NXT All Metal Polysh and it came out beautiful. I often (as in this case) like to use a 4 x 4 all cotton gauze pad for initial application/cleaning then go to a MF. No before shots but this thing had a lot of bluing from shooting out propane flames:



031_31.jpg
 
Thanks for posting that, John.



Side Note: If you need/want any of those pics resized, let me know. I have Photoshop here at the office.
 
I have had good luck with M105 and a Mother's Powerball mini with the drill. You can shove the power ball up in the pipe a good foot too to shine the inside as well. On the outside, I use a cotton towel or microfiber to work the M105.
 
wannafbody said:
DO NOT USE SANDPAPER. Use a good metal polish. Wenol comes in two grades. Use the more aggressive first and then finish with the mild polish. You'll have best luck with some cotton or felt bobs and a drill. check TP Tools & Equipment



I have the same pipes (2003 GT). I have polished them to a mirror finish using these items and following this procedure, it WILL work.



3M 1500 grit wet/dry

3M 2000 grit wet/dry

Mothers metal polish, available at wal-mart.

Terry towel.



Have the sand paper soak in water for 1/2 hour. Start with the 1500. Be sure not to push hard, or you will put nasty scratches in the metal. Lightly sand over, redunking the sandpaper. I did this for about 5 minutes each pipe. Then go to the 2000 grit, repeating the same process. After drying the pipes, vigorously rub in Mother polish. You will get a mirror finish.
 
89gt-stanger said:
I have the same pipes (2003 GT). I have polished them to a mirror finish using these items and following this procedure, it WILL work.



3M 1500 grit wet/dry

3M 2000 grit wet/dry

Mothers metal polish, available at wal-mart.

Terry towel.



Have the sand paper soak in water for 1/2 hour. Start with the 1500. Be sure not to push hard, or you will put nasty scratches in the metal. Lightly sand over, redunking the sandpaper. I did this for about 5 minutes each pipe. Then go to the 2000 grit, repeating the same process. After drying the pipes, vigorously rub in Mother polish. You will get a mirror finish.







Thanks for the information, bud! going to try it tonight.







now on a separate polishing delima: i picked up some chrome bullets yesterday. none are corroded but severely dirty. i used turtle wax chrome polish on one, and while it did the job it left some moderate marring. I guess the chrome is cheap? what could you guys recommend? TIA
 
8Banger said:
Thanks for the information, bud! going to try it tonight.







now on a separate polishing delima: i picked up some chrome bullets yesterday. none are corroded but severely dirty. i used turtle wax chrome polish on one, and while it did the job it left some moderate marring. I guess the chrome is cheap? what could you guys recommend? TIA



On the chrome bullets, abrasive chrome and metal polish is a no-no. The cladding isn't cheap. If you want to clean up chrome rims, use Eagle One polish. It comes in a little round metal tin. Get the stuff that is blue, not the wadding type. EO will not scratch, it is non-abrasive, and puts a layer of protection on them, like a sealant or wax.



If you need any help cleaning up your stang, or performance help, let me know. I'm a big stanger.
 
I've got the OEM 16" Chrome Ponies on my 88. Didn't come with them from the factory but they are original Ford. I have been using Meguiars Mag & Aluminum wheel polish on them and then sealing them with PB wheel sealant and they look really nice until you get up close. There is this sort of burnt look to them on certain parts. I was going to try NXT wheel polish on them because I have been hearing really good things about it. The burn marks have just been pissing me off because no matter how nice the wheels look I know that they aren't perfect. Oh and those burn marks were there when I bought the car, they weren't from me neglecting it. I'm assuming it is brake dust that burnt it.



It's nice to see some other Stangers here!!
 
If all else fails, take your SS tips to your local plating shop. They can buff them out on a series of cotton wheels loaded with polishing abrasive. Another good go to person would be your local gunsmith. They like shiney things too.....
 
Back
Top